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Species List | Trip Reports | Home fssbirding.org.uk |
Morocco (coast)
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5-10 March 2014 |
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Observers: F. & L. Simpson |
Introduction
Following a birding trip to the High Atlas and deserts in 2007 and a travel photography trip in 2011, we were keen to return to bird the west coast with the hope of seeing and possibly sound recording four target species: African Marsh Owl (Asio capensis), Double-spurred Francolin (Pternistis bicalcaratus), Black-crowned Tchagra (Tchagra senegalus) and Plain Martin (Brown-throated Martin) (Riparia paludicola). Considering the distance between Larache and Agadir, we probably tried to do too much in the short time allocated but all four species were seen as well many other great birds. Spring migration was in full flow and many species were singing. Unfortunately we experienced some rather mixed weather with strong winds and nocturnal storms in addition to warm days.
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Highlights
Double-spurred Francolin, Barbary Partridge, maroccanus Cormorant, Northern Bald Ibis, Long-legged Buzzard, Lanner Falcon, Red-knobbed Coot, Eurasian Crane, Caspian Tern, Laughing Dove, Great Spotted Cuckoo, African Marsh Owl, Little Swift, Plain Martin, Moroccan White Wagtail, Bluethroat, Moussier's Redstart, Moustached Warbler, African Blue Tit, Black-crowned Tchagra, Common Bulbul, mauritanica Magpie, africana Chaffinch, House Bunting.
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Logistics
Flights London Stansted to Rabat-Salé (RAK) with Ryanair cost a £167.24 two including two 15 Kg check-in baggage pieces.
Ground Transport Car hire with Payless was booked through Holiday Autos costing £81.75 for a compact 4-door with air con and unlimited mileage but without damage excess waiver. Tank was supplied empty and we had to pay for the airport car parking as Payless have no office there and operate a 'meet-and-greet' transaction. The coastal motorway has pay tolls. The biggest charge was between Agadir and Marrakech at 140 Dirhams (£10.60).
Accommodation Ranged from 250-420 Dirhams (£18.90 -£31.80) per night for a room for two. Moulay Bousselham: Asked for a specific hotel but got conned in to staying at a 'guest house'. Témara: Hôtel Panorama El Jadida: Hôtel El Morabitine Parc National Sous Massa: Cabin at Camping International de Sidi Wassay.
Maps Insight Travel Map.
Morocco 1:800 000 was sufficient for our purposes. Garmin GPS
utilised for grid references.
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Literature, references & site guides used
• Trip reports were obtained from cloudbirders.com (the new Internet portal to birding travel and birdwatching trip • reports) and birdtours.co.uk and the most useful for our purposes are listed below: • Albegger,
E. et al. Morocco
and Western Sahara, 4-22 April 2010.
Internet
published Trip Report. • Collaerts,
E. et al. Morocco, 28 April - 6 May 2012.
Internet
published Trip Report. • Jönsson,
O. et al. Morocco, 16-25
February 2007.
Internet
published Trip Report. • Matheve,
H. et al. Morocco, 9-24 April 2011. Internet
published Trip Report. • Schouten,
A. & Peters, A. Morocco, 9-27 April 2011.
Internet
published Trip Report. • González
Ortega, D. et al. Morocco
and Western Sahara, 20-29 January 2012.
Internet
published Trip Report.
• Bergier,
P & F. 2003. A Birdwatchers' Guide to Morocco. Prion
Ltd.
• Insight Travel Map.
Morocco 1:800 000.
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Itinerary
Day 01 05/03/14 Rabat >
Kenitra > Moulay Bousselham > Merja Zerga (Meroia Lerga)
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Day
1
Rabat-Salé
Airport
Rabat-Salé
Airport > Kenitra > Moulay Bousselham
Merja
Zerga (Meroia Lerga/Merdja
Zerka)
As the evening was approaching we headed back for dinner in time to get down to the favoured Marsh Owl site near the campsite on the east side of Moulay Bousselham. Dinner at Cafe Milano was 104 Dirhams for two (Tajine de Poullet, fries, bread, olives, banana shake & apple juice).
For the Marsh Owl site at Merja Kahla, we turned right (south, while heading eastbound out of town) at the Gendarmerie (where we left the car), down the sandy track signposted 'Flamants Loisirs Complexe Touristique, turned right at the fork and headed down the west wall of the camping ground, then turned left towards the houses which overlook the marsh/heath bordering the lake. Around 500+ Cattle Egrets were wheeling around in a single white cloud on the other side of the lake. As expected, some appeared on a bike claiming to be able to show us the Hibou. He took us to his father's house (Khalil Fachkhir, tel: 0663095358) and soon we were up on his rooftop terrace with a mint tea, watching some Pallid Swifts, and waiting for the Marsh Owls to emerge from their roosting site in the campsite to the north. Five minutes after sunset, three Marsh Owls appeared at 18:35 over the trees of the campsite, circling around for several minutes (briefly calling), them passing right over our heads and out to hunt over the lakeside. After a further ten minutes they appeared to settle down and were soon lost to view as darkness fell. Heading back we heard a Little Owl above the frog chorus but the evening had been too windy to sound record anything. Bring mosquito repellent!
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Day
2
Moulay
Boussleham
Oued Loukkos marshes, Larache We drove the P4401 track heading south (from the N1 on the north-east side of the city) on the west side of the bridge over the Loukkos river, towards the Barrage Oued Loukkos.
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1st stop at small pools, south of the main bridge over the river,
at the blue factory: 35°
11' 26.1" N 6° 07' 54.7" W
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2nd stop at the first main marshes/floods, just after passing
under A1 road bridge: 35°
10' 26.1" N 6° 06' 39.4" W
In the next kilometre, most of the above species were in view along with Squacco Heron (3), Crested Coot (34), Ruff (6), Common Bulbuls, Common Snipe (1), Iberian Yellow Wagtail (25+).
The wind had settled down this morning and I made some sound recordings from the trackside. Several wagtails were feeding very close to the edge of the track since the water was close and appeared to have recently flooded the track.
Iberian Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava iberiae
Oued Loukkos marshes, Morocco 35° 10' 26.1" N 6° 06' 39.4" W 6 March 2014 Flight calls from passing birds with a nearer bird taking flight at 4.6 sec. [File name: iberianyellowwagtailLS111761ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Oued Loukkos marshes, Morocco 35° 10' 26.1" N 6° 06' 39.4" W 6 March 2014 Flight call from passing bird. [File name: whitewagtailLS111758ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Oued Loukkos marshes, Morocco 35° 09' 28.5" N 6° 06' 09.6" W 6 March 2014 Calls from a feeding bird. [File name: blackwingedstiltLS111764ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Oued Loukkos marshes, Morocco 35° 10' 26.1" N 6° 06' 39.4" W 6 March 2014 Calls from a bird in flight. [File name: glossyibisLS111761ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
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3rd stop at the large, open flooded fields/marshes east of the
village on the hill: 35°
09' 46.0" N 6° 06' 25.9" W
Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon
Oued Loukkos marshes, Morocco 35° 09' 28.5" N 6° 06' 09.6" W 6 March 2014 Distant bird singing from marsh side area of reeds and Juncus. [File name: moustachedwarblerLS111767ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
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4th stop at the main marshes on the right, c4 Km south of the
main road: 35°
09' 28.5" N 6° 06' 09.6" W
Drive
south to Témara
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Day
3
Témara
> Tamesna> Sidi Yaya/Sidi Yahya des Zaër >
Sidi Bettache Several roadside pools held Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Duck, Crested Coot, and Little Egret. Black Kites became regular and Black-winged Kite and Little Owl were where the road entered more wooded areas.
17
Km north of Sidi Bettache, on road R403 33°
42' 31.4" N 6° 55' 18.8" W
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 31.4" N 6° 55' 18.8" W 07 March 2014 Song uttered from evergreen scrub/Asphodelus pasture bordering cork oak forest. [File name: blackcrownedtchagraLS111780ecut1] Click here for the MP3 file
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 31.4" N 6° 55' 18.8" W 07 March 2014 Song phrases uttered from a male in flight -listen carefully between 0.8 and 2.6 secs for 'wing-fripping'. [File name: blackcrownedtchagraLS111780ecut2] Click here for the MP3 file
Forêt
de Sidi-Bettache,
10.5
Km north of Sidi Bettache 33°
39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3 W" Drive
south to El Jadida, via Cassablanca
El
Jadida
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Day
4
El
Jadida
El Jadida > Sidi Smaïl > Bouguedra > Essaouira Continuing
the drive south towards Agadir, the first Laughing Doves of the
trip were seen perched on roadside Prickly Pears from 30 kilometres
south of El Jadida. Towards Safi province it was apparent that large
numbers of Barn Swallows were heading north and Crested Larks were
particularly numerous along the roadside. Also noted: Cattle Egret
(still abundant), White Stork, Stonechat, House Sparrow, Kestrel
sp, Spotless Starling, Corn Bunting, Calandra Lark, Woodchat Shrike,
Montagu's Harrier, Southern Grey Shrike (7), Common Bulbul, Moussier's
Redstart, White Wagtail, Collared Dove, Magpie, Greenfinch, Sardinian
Warbler, Feral Pigeon, North African Chaffinch,
Tamri
> Cape Rhir (Cao Rhir)
Camping
International de Sidi Wassay
Once at the campsite we checked in to a cosy, hobbit-like bungalow decorated with Moroccan fabric inside. From here we observed singing Moussier's Redstarts right outside the doorway, but it was too windy to sound record them. A male Moroccan White Wagtail was sitting by the swimming pool and 30+ Pallid Swifts were overhead. Down on the beach, several Iberian and Common Chiffchaffs and Subalpine Warblers were flitting around in the minimal herb-layer, looking for insects and hiding in crevices in the foreshore sand/rock formations when approached. One male Subalpine Warbler even flew to a rock pool to procure some insects. A flock of five Spoonbills flew north and there was a steady movement of Barn and Red-rumped Swallows, and House and Sand Martins.
After dark a Stone Curlew was heard. Spectacular thunderstorm during the night.
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Day
5
Parc National de Sous Massa
30°
01' 51.6" N 9° 38' 38.8" W
After this we headed towards the main entrance to the park. At the junction Route El Kharije and Route Sid Rbat on the edge of Massa village, we met a man who said he was an official park guide (despite being a few kilometres from the park) though he did have an official badge and an SEO shirt. He offered to guide us to anything we wanted to see... Marbled Duck, Cream-coloured Courser, Bald Ibis, etc... for 150 Dirhams per hour. We were low on money and petrol having not replenished either when we passed Agadir. With only a100 Dirhams left to offer he accepted this and my request for a singing Tchagra. He parked his moped and jumped in our car and he took us across the flood plain farmland on muddy tracks. The wind was still strong and so the chance of make some sound recording was unlikely. Then we stopped and walked along the field boundaries and irrigation ditches, flushing three Quail and 100+ Iberian Yellow Wagtails. Displaying Zitting Cisticola were abundant as well as many Phylloscopus warblers, probably grounded by the recent wind and last night's storm. Other good birds seen included Bluethroat, Collared Pratincole, Stone Curlew, Purple Heron, Moussier's Redstart, Bee-eater, Laughing Dove, Common Snipe, Moroccan White Wagtail, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Crested Lark, Common Kestrel, Linnet, Blackbird, and Collared Dove. Eventually a pair of Black-crowned Tchagras were located by our guide and while they mainly silent, close views were obtained of them on the ground, running between the crops and hopping back into the scrub.
When our hour was up, the guide departed and asked for our Gosney guide booklet to Finding Birds in Southern Morocco as a souvenir. We continued towards the national park and located a very vocal Black-crowned Tchagra within five minutes (I know, I should become a guide) just south of the village of Sidi Binzarne. This area (in the photograph above) was partially sheltered by the hillside (with rocky undercliff) on the right (north) and using the car and door as a shelter I managed to get some recordings of both the male singing and the pair duetting once the female joined in.
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Oued Massa, Morocco 30° 02' 41.1" N 9° 38' 46.3" W 09 March 2014 Duetting song uttered from a pair in a Tamarisk in the flood plain of the Oued Massa. [File name: blackcrownedtchagraLS111810ecut2] Click here for the MP3 file
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus
Oued Massa, Morocco 30° 02' 41.1" N 9° 38' 46.3" W 09 March 2014 Song uttered from spiny scrub in the flood plain of the Oued Massa. [File name: blackcrownedtchagraLS111810ec] Click here for the MP3 file
Common Chiffchaff and Subalpine Warblers were everywhere along with smaller numbers of Willow Warblers. Other species noted on the drive to the reserve car park included Glossy Ibis (14), Moussier's Redstart, Laughing Dove, Woodchat Shrike, singing Cirl Bunting, singing Nightingale, several singing Sardinian Warblers, singing Corn Bunting, Northern Wheatear, Crested Lark, Spotless Starling, White Stork, Cetti's Warbler, Sparrowhawk, Goldfinch, Blackbird, and Little Ringed Plover (3).
When we arrived at the car park, we were once more approached by guides. We headed towards the mouth of the river on our own. The birding was fairly quiet until I heard the distinctive sound of distant Eurasian Cranes. Looking towards the south side of the river, around 26 Cranes were settling in the near hillside. More birds had possibly already landed. The river held few species, the highlights being Whiskered Tern (4) and an Avocet. Other species noted: Black-crowned Tchagra (2-3 singing mm), Hoopoe, Spectacled Warbler, Black Kite, Barbary Partridge (pr), Woodchat Shrike, Moussier's Redstart, Common Bulbul, Bee-eater, Audouin's Gull (23), Stonechat, Serin, Crested Lark, Zitting Cisticola, Grey Heron (23), Linnet, Sardinian Warbler, Green Sandpiper, Yellow-legged Gull (12), Common Sandpiper, Goldfinch, and Moroccan Cormorant. Departed at 12:30 for the drive north.
Drive
north on the A7 motorway to Marrakech via Agadir
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Day
6
Forêt
de Sidi-Bettache,
17
Km north of Sidi Bettache 33°
42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W
Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W 10 March 2014 07:06 h Song uttered from evergreen scrub bordering cork oak forest. [File name: doublespurredfrancolinLS111824e] Click here for the MP3 file
Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W 10 March 2014 Clucking calls from a bird in Asphodels at the roadside. [File name: barbarypartridgeLS111819ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W 10 March 2014 Calls on the ground. [File name: crestedlarkLS111784ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W 10 March 2014 Soft, quiet calls from the ground. [File name: crestedlarkLS111785ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 42' 35.0" N 6° 55' 33.5" W 10 March 2014 Song uttered from evergreen scrub bordering cork oak forest. [File name: sardinianwarblerLS111835ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Forêt
de Sidi-Bettache,
10.5
Km north of Sidi Bettache 33°
39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3 W"
African Blue Tit Cyanistes teneriffae
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 Singing male Cork Oak forest with Asphodelus understory. [File name: africanbluetitLS111795ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
African Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 Territorial male singing from Cork Oak forest with Asphodelus understory. [File name: africanchaffinchLS111848ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
African Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 Call from a female in Cork Oak forest with Asphodelus understory. [File name: africanchaffinchLS111847ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Great Tit Parus major Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 38' 33.6" N 6° 52' 42.5" W 10 March 2014 Territorial song from cork oak woodland. [File name: greattitLS111796ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Great Tit Parus major Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 38' 33.6" N 6° 52' 42.5" W 10 March 2014 Territorial song from cork oak woodland. [File name: greattitLS111786ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Blackbird Turdus merula
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 "Chook-chook" alarm call uttered from a cork oak in response to the sound recordist. [File name: blackbirdLS111837ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 Calls, probably used in alarm. [File name: jayLS111850ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Forêt de Sidi-Bettache, Morocco 33° 39' 36.9" N 6° 53' 11.3" W 10 March 2014 Simpler perched song with short phrases. [File name: greenfinchLS111849ecut] Click here for the MP3 file
Rabat-Salé
Airport The last species noted on this trip? Two Cattle Egrets in the grassland around the runway.
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All photographs © 2014 F. S. Simpson Fraser's Birding Website · fssbirding.org.uk |