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Morocco

29 April - 06 May 2007

Observers:

F. Simpson & L. Ketchen

INTRODUCTION

For many years I had harboured ambitions to travel to Morocco. So close to Europe yet somehow an exotic place in the mind. In terms of birds and wildlife, there are many new species to discover but there are also the phenotypic differences in the more familiar species to appreciate due to the geographical separation of the two continents. A week was planned to concentrate on the pre-desert and desert areas south of the High Atlas mountains, between Marrakech and Merzouga. A total of 156 species was recorded at a relaxed pace during seven days of birding. Travel was easy, particularly with limited French and we found people welcoming and helpful. I brought the tent as usual but found that small hotels were cheap, comfortable and served good food. All had hot water though I was mindful of using an obviously precious resource in such landscapes. Most of my targets were located with exception of Egyptian Nightjar. Highlights included the crazy displays of Hoopoe Larks on the Tagdilt plateau, a movement of over 100,000 Swifts in the Dadès Valley and the stunning landscapes from mountains and gorges to the deserts and dunes. I plan to return for a longer trip next year, taking in the coastal wetlands and the Argan, Mamora and Cedars forests.

HIGHLIGHTS

Ruddy Shelduck · Marbled Duck · Long-legged Buzzard · Lanner Flacon · Barbary Falcon · Red-knobbed Coot · Cream-coloured Courser · Laughing Dove · Spotted Sandgrouse · Crowned Sandgrouse · Little Swift · Blue-cheeked Bee-eater   Levaillant's Green Woodpecker · Desert Lark · Bar-tailed Lark · Thick-billed Lark · Atlas Horned Lark · Temminck's Lark   Hoopoe Lark · Rufous Bush Robin · Common Bulbul · Moussier's Redstart · Seebohm's Wheatear · Desert Wheatear   Western Mourning Wheatear · White-crowned Wheatear · Red-rumped Wheatear · Tristram's Warbler · African Desert Warbler · Scrub Warbler · Fulvous Babbler · Brown-necked Raven · Desert Sparrow · Trumpeter Finch · Crimson-winged Finch · House Bunting

 LOGISTICS

Flights

London Luton (LTN) to Marrakech-Menara (RAK) with Ryanair cost a £120 including baggage. Easybus from Baker Street, London to Luton Airport was £4 each way.

Ground Transport

Car hire with National/Alamo was booked through Holiday Autos costing £300 for a compact/2-door with air con and inclusive of damage excess waiver and unlimited milage. Unusually we had to pay for the full tank of petrol on arrival and return it empty at the end of the week.

Accommodation

Ranged from 60-250 Dirhams (£5-16) per night, most inclusive of breakfast and evening meal:

Oukaïmeden: Club Alpine Francais

Ouarzazate: Hotel Amlas

Boumalne du Dadès: Auberge du Soleil Bleu

Er-Rachidia: Hotel M'Daghra

Erg Chebbi: Auberge Kasbah Yasmina

Maps

Insight Travel Map. Morocco 1:800 000 was sufficient for our purposes. Garmin GPS utilised for grid references.

LITERATURE, REFERENCES & SITE GUIDES USED

1.      Bergier, P & F. 2003. A Birdwatchers' Guide to Morocco. Prion Ltd.
2.      Gosney, D. 1996. Finding Birds in Southern Morocco. Gostours Guide.
3.      Hogg, A. 1999. Morocco, 28 March-9 April 1999. Privately published Trip Report.
4.      Hogg, A. 1988. Morocco, 25 March-8 April 1988. Privately published Trip Report.
5.      Bonser, R. 2005. Morocco, 3-10 April 2005. Internet published Trip Report.

6.      Svensson, L. et al. 1999. Bird Guide. HarperCollins.

7.      Tolman, T. & Lewington, R. 1997. Butterflies of Britain & Europe. Collins.
8.      Ellingham, S. et al. 2004. The Rough Guide to Morocco. Rough Guides.
9.      Insight Travel Map. Morocco 1:800 000.

USEFUL WEBSITES

•      Go-South  Birds and Nature in Morocco  Oiseaux et Nature au Maroc

•      Fatbirder's Morocco Page

•      Travellingbirder.com Trip Reports
•      Birdtours Trip Reports Morocco
•      BirdGuides Morocco Updates & Dave Gosney Guide to Southern Morocco

•      Ryanair

•      Holiday Autos

•      Cafe Yasmina

•      African Bird Club - Morocco

ITINERARY

Day 01       29/04/07     London Luton (LTN) > Aeroport Marrakech-Menara (RAK) > Oukaïmeden, High Atlas
Day 02       30/04/07     Oukaïmeden > Âït-Ourir > Toufliah > Taddert > Tizi-n-Tichka > Amerzgane > Ouarzazate
Day 03       01/05/07     Ouarzazate > Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi > Boumalne du Dadès > Tagdilt track
Day 04       02/05/07     Boumalne du Dadès > Tagdilt track > Goulima > Er-Rachidia
Day 05       03/05/07     Er-Rachidia > Vallée du Ziz > Erfoud > Dayet Sjri > Merzouga > Erg Chebbi > Cafe Yasmina Lake
Day 06       04/05/07     Auberge Yasmina > Erfoud > Er-Rachidia > Tinerhri > Gorges du Todra > Boumalne du Dadès
Day 07       05/05/07     Boumalne du Dadès > Ouarzazate > Tizi-n-Tichka > Taddert > Toufliah > Marrakech
Day 08       06/05/07     Aeroport Marrakech-Menara > London Luton

THE DIARY

Day 1
Sunday 29 April 2007
London > Marrakech > Oukaïmeden, High Atlas

AEROPORT MARRAKECH-MENARA
Arrived on time following our 0600h departure from Luton. Spotless Starlings around the runway. Passport control queue lasted 50 minutes. Picked up the car from the National/Alamo desk and exchanged Pounds for Dirhams. We had pre-booked a Clio and were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to a spacious, four door Honda Civic on arrival. Around 50 Pallid Swifts were hawking low over the terminal buildings. Many noisy House Sparrows, including a large active nest - as vocal as the Spanish birds last week. The British sparrows always seem much more subdued in comparison. Leaving the airport grounds a Southern Grey Shrike held sentry at the entrance.

MARRAKECH > OUKAÏMEDEN, HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS
We were then on our way to the hills on roads where people, animals and mopeds seem to have priority. Road signs are like French road signs but we first followed 'Autres Direction' then 'Oukaïmeden' without any problems. As we began to climb the foothills it was apparent that this was a well trodden tourist trail with many coaches stopped at the craft/artisan stalls by the roadside. The first one had several impressive ammonites as did the rest, all of similar size and clearly fake cement casts. Model 'White Storks' were also on sale, Lisa's favourite bird, and obviously appreciated by locals and tourists alike. Species noted on the drive from the airport to the foothills: Red-rumped Swallow, White Stork (including nests), Common Bulbul, Greenfinch, Linnet, Collared Dove, Feral Pigeon, Goldfinch, Barn Swallow, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Stonechat, Sardinian Warbler, Crested Lark, Southern Grey Shrike, Blackbird, Chaffinch and many butterflies including Spanish Festoon (Zerynthia rumina), Swallowtail (Papilio machaon), Brimstone (Gonepteryx rhamni), Small Copper (Lycaena phlaeas), Clouded Yellow (Colias crocea), Painted Lady (Vanessa cardui), Cleopatra (Gonepteryx cleopatra), Moroccan Copper (Lycaena phebus) and pierids.

Reaching the coniferous zone, Serins were numerous, several Coal Tits (atlas) singing, Raven (3+), first Alpine Chough higher up with an impressive flock of 100+, several pairs of Kestrels, Rock Doves on the cliff faces, Black Wheatear, Wren singing and Red-billed Choughs heard calling.

OUKAÏMEDEN > PARC NACIONAL DE TOUBKAL, HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS
On reaching the alpine plateau at Oukaïmeden, we experienced the first in-your-face hard sell approach from a local. This was the only place during the whole trip where we felt a bit uncomfortable as we later found people to be friendly and polite. Paid the 20 dirhams fee to enter the National Park and quickly found accommodation at the Club Alpine Francais. A male Black Redstart was singing from the roof. In the few trees in the area, several North African race Chaffinches (africana) were singing with a recognisably distinct dialect. The most vocal birds in the area were the Rock Sparrows with 10+ around the buildings.

After dumping the rucksacks hiked up the trail into the mountains passing the offers of guides and mule treks at the base of the ski lift up to Jbel Oukaïmeden (3273m). More Black Redstarts singing. First of several pairs of Horned Larks (atlas) found feeding inconspicuously on the slopes. First look of a Seebohm's Wheatear was of a male chasing off a female Black Redstart. More Seebohm's were found including a female with food for young. In the valley of the Assif n' Aït Irene a roving flock of c150 Alpine Chough held a few Red-billed Choughs. Kestrel (1). Feral Rock Dove (c40) around the Berber village. Higher up we eventually found our target species as a flock of 12 Crimson-winged Finches flew by and settle some distance away. Lots of reptiles along the edge of the tracks though without a field guide to North Africa we succeeded only in identifying High Atlas Moroccan Day Gecko (Quedenfeldtia trachyblepharus), Moroccan Rock Lizard (Lacerta perspicillata) and Iberian Wall Lizard (Podarcis hispanica). Painted Lady butterflies were passing regularly.

At higher altitude things turned quiet and much cooler though the scenery was great. We headed back down to the village area at Oukaïmeden for our first bite to eat all day. A large chicken and vegetable tajine, bread and mint tea cost just £2.50 each. I have to say this was probably the best tajine of the trip, probably helped by a combination of mountain air and hunger.

 Typical mountain birds around Oukaïmeden

African Blue Tit (ultramarinus) (2-3) on wires around the restaurants, occasionally flying down for scraps around the tables and chairs. Scanning the grassy meadow of the plateau produced 24 Red-billed Chough which were searching for food by turning over stones. Sooty Orange Tip (Zegris eupheme) found. Chaffinches flitting past. Later, we walked out and followed the stream (Assif n' Aït Irene) downstream to the lake where an unbelievable chorus of masses of North African Green Frogs (Rana saharaica) could be heard over 500 metres away. Plenty of Hoop-Petticoat Daffodils (Narcissus bulbocodium) flowering the surrounding damp grassland. Seebohm's Wheatear (2) and a Kestrel. A flock of seven Crimson-winged Finches flew past and landed on the rocky outcrop above the lake but didn't relocate them. Sun down behind the mountains at 1830h. Back at the village a Mistle Thrush was alarm calling and many Rock Sparrows were singing towards dusk.

Day 2
Monday 30 April 2007
Oukaïmeden > Âït-Ourir > Touama > Toufliah > Taddert > Tizi-n-Tichka > Agouim > Amerzgane > Ouarzazate

CLUB ALPINE FRANCAIS, OUKAÏMEDEN, HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS  [31º 12' 34.3" N  007º 49' 31.7" W]
Light from around 0545h but slept until 0800h. Awoke to blue skies and crisper visibility than the previous day. Alpine Chough (14) right outside our window on a neighbouring roof. Also a pair of Black Redstart active in the garden. Caught sight of small passerine in a small patch of broom and junipers - a female Tristram's Warbler. Not a bad start before shower and breakfast.

OUKAÏMEDEN
Red-billed Chough (27) feeding in the short turf of the plateau around the stream. Mistle Thrush, African Blue Tit, Black Redstart, Rock Sparrow and Chaffinch observed again. A pair of Seebohm's Wheatear and mixed flock of 40+ Chough near the lake.

OUKAÏMEDEN > ÂÏT-OURIRH
Driving back down the valley we stopped regularly. Just as you enter the rocky gorge we found a group of 50+ Red-billed Choughs feeding on the slope above the road.

• 2551m  Heard a Dipper singing from the mountain stream (Assif n' Oukaïmeden 31º 12' 48.6" N  007º 50' 50.0" W) which we soon located along with a Grey Wagtail. Singing Blue Rock Thrush and Black Wheatear nearby. More Alpine Chough overhead. Lower down, another pair of Blue Rock Thrushes and a Wren singing from barren terrain. Even more flocks of Alpine Chough encountered further down, plus several Kestrels and more singing Wrens.

• 2406m  Alpine Swift (1), Rock Bunting (m), Blue Rock Thrush giving display flight, African Blue Tit & Black Redstart.

• 2400m  At the Marrakech Km-71 post 31º 13' 34.3" N  007º 49' 31.5" W a pale morph Booted Eagle was overhead, a singing Moussier's Redstart, several singing Firecrests, Woodlark song-flighting, recently fledged Kestrel, Coal Tit, Serin, Blackbird, Mistle Thrush, Cirl Bunting and Chaffinch.

• 2249m  Moussier's Redstart singing from roadside boulder.

• 2233m  Area around the antenna 31º 14' 14.8" N  007º 48' 59.7" W: Moussier's Redstart, Rock Bunting and Tristram's Warbler in scrubby area of broom/whin/juniper. Woodlark displaying from a large boulder. Serin overhead. Driving on down we found Great Tits to be common from c2000 metres, several Black Redstarts and many singing Firecrest, Serin and Goldfinch. Queen of Spain Fritillary (Issoria lathonia).

• 1700m  First House Sparrows appeared in the small villages here.

• 1500m  Nightingales common below this altitude. At least 23 singing mm heard between here and the edge of the foothills.

 Spectacular mountain scenery in the High Atlas

To save driving all the way back to Marrakech to access the main road going to Ouarzazate, we looked for the road connecting the two (as shown on the map). We saw a sign for Ouarzazate, followed it, and soon got stuck in a village clearly in the full swing of market day. The crowds got thicker and we soon realised we were the only people driving along the road as we became engulfed in a sea of bodies and donkeys. Not knowing what to, reversing was an impossibility, we crawled through the crowds trying not to crush feet or injure elbows. One man then seemed to take an interest in us and it became apparent that he was trying to find us a parking space. After about 20 minutes the nightmare was over and we had escaped the scenes straight out of a National Geographic film.

ROAD N9: ÂÏT-OURIRH > TOUFLIAH
A long single track road eventually brought us onto the N9. The petrol gauge which had strangely remained on full, suddenly swung to 3/4. Stopped at a garage to get some petrol so we could calculate tank size/mpg. Around 40+ White Storks were soaring the hot sky above and some Common Bulbuls flew past the pumps. Species noted on the drive towards the foothills: Corn Bunting, Southern Grey Shrike, European Bee-eater, Woodchat Shrike, Cuckoo, Turtle Dove, Barn Swallow, Crested Lark, House Sparrow, Goldfinch, Sardinian Warbler, Serin, Kestrel and several Swallowtail butterflies.

TOUFLIAH  [1431m · 31º 28' 38.1" N  007º 26' 02.8" W]
Stopped at the roadside cafe with terrace overlooking the wooded slopes of the mountains here. Several Wood Pigeons passing and displaying. Nightingale singing from the cultivated stream below. Soon, a Levaillant's Green Woodpecker was heard calling about 200 metres away so we finished our drinks and followed the sound through the pine woodland. Chaffinch, Robin, Firecrest, Coal Tit, African Blue Tit, and Blackbird all singing. Jay flew over the road. Grey Wagtail heard. Spotted Flycatcher and Great Tit observed. We located the Levaillant's though got poor views, finding them much shyer than European Green Woodpecker. Pair of Grey Wagtails on the roadside at Cafe La Source just opposite the wooded area with the 'peckers. Common Bulbuls in the streamside vegetation. Coal Tits also noted in rocky juniper scrub. Subalpine Warbler (singing m). Hawfinch flew overhead. Small Heath (Coenonympha pamphilus) and Comma (Polygonum c-album) noted.

TOUFLIAH > TADDERT > TIZI-N-TICHKA > OUARZAZATE
On the long, winding road up into the mountains towards the Tizi-n-Tichka pass, we heard several Cetti's Warblers and 40+ singing Nightingales around the richly vegetated streams running through the villages. Many people selling quartz/amethyst and morel mushrooms along the roadside. A brief stop at the pass produced nothing. Arriving on the southern side of the High Atlas the changes in vegetation were apparent as the landscape became drier and more arid towards Amerzgane. The southern foothills did have green areas though particular along streams and on cultivated, terraced slopes.

OUARZAZATE AREA, VALLÉE DU DADÈS
It was getting late by the time we were nearing Ouarzazate and I was keen not to drive after dark. A few stops though produced several Desert Wheatears with 30 km of Ouarzazate as well as a single Desert Lark, two Trumpeter Finches and a flock of c20 Barn Swallows feeding along a stream. Clearly we were entering the pre-desert zone and tomorrow promised some new and exciting birds. Drove the last 10 km in the dark, Road not too bad, few pot holes, but busy with people and unlit mopeds on the road into the town. Stayed the night at the Hotel Amlal, arriving at 2000h.

Day 3
Tuesday 1 May 2007
Ouarzazate > Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi > Skoura > El-Kelaâ-M'Gouna > Boumalne du Dadès > Tagdilt track

BARRAGE EL MANSOUR EDDAHBI/ASSIF MENGOUB, EAST OF OUARZAZATE

[1127m · 30º 55' 36.8" N  006º 52' 23.1" W]
Massive reservoir created by a hydroelectric dam on the Oued Drâa, where several smaller water courses also drain. We birded around one of the most accessible areas between the eastern edge of the town of Ouarzazate and the Assif Mengoub. Numerous people fishing and collecting vegetation. Good range of birds: Black Tern (4), Ruddy Shelduck (6), Gull-billed Tern (1), Caspian Tern (2), Collared Pratincole (3), Yellow Wagtail, Hoopoe singing, Spectacled Warblers fairly common, Cattle Egret, Green Sandpiper, Great Crested Grebe (pr), Woodchat Shrike (2), Little Ringed Plover (2), Common Sandpiper (1), Little Egret, Ringed Plover (1), Crested Lark, Melodious Warbler, Pallid Swift (100+), Sand Martin (8), Tawny Pipit, European Bee-eater, Collared Dove, Mallard, House Sparrow. The stars here were the Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters where a pair were checking out an area for nest site possibilities. In some field guides these birds don't look as good as their European relatives, but in the field they are stunning, particularly in flight when the reddish underwing plumage is apparent. The call is vaguely like apiaster though distinctive enough to quickly learn and distinguish the two species from a distance in flight. Desert Orange Tip (Colotis evagore), Greenish Black-tip (Elphinstonia charlonia) and Bath White (Pontia daplidice) common here.

 Wetland and desert habitats in the Vallée du Dadès

ROAD N10: OUARZAZATE > SKOURA > EL-KELAÂ-M'GOUNA > BOUMALNE DU DADÈS
Very scenic drive with the central High Atlas mountains to the north and the Jbel Sarhro to the south. Leaving Ouarzazate, a male White-crowned Wheatear was perched on a lamppost. Now we were entering some nice desert habitats...

• Oued Anatim: White-crowned Wheatear and Little Ringed Plover (pr).

• Oued Arguioene: Yellow Wagtail, Little Ringed Plover, Barn Swallow, House Sparrow & 'Crekla' Lark.

• Oued ? near Skoura: Common Bulbul, Woodchat Shrike, Trumpeter Finch (2), Pallid Swift, Common Swift, Barn Swallow, House Sparrow and Feral Rock Dove.

• Oued Elhajaj, Skoura: Palm Dove (2), White Stork nesting on nearby building, White-crowned Wheatear (4) and House Buntings singing.

On the eastern edge of Skoura, single Black Kite and Booted Eagle hunting over the plain. Another Booted Eagle a few kilometres east at 31º 04' 29.2" N  006º 30' 15.31" W 1264m. Desert Wheatear at 31º 06' 46.7" N  006º 24' 47.6" W 1315m.

• 58 Km East of Ouarzazate 31º 06' 46.7" N  006º 24' 47.6" W 1390m Stony desert just past two red/white antennae: Trumpeter Finch (6+), Desert Lark (2), Greater Short-toed Larks common and song-flighting and several impressive Plain Tiger (Danaus chrysippus) butterflies passing. Further along the road where it drops down into a steep ravine, a pair of Black Wheatears found.

• Imassine: House Buntings singing, White-crowned Wheatear carrying food for young - nesting in an old building. Kestrel and House Sparrow also noted.

• El-Kelaâ-M'Gouna: Flower power ruled in this town as dozens of people lined the streets selling garlands of Centifolia roses. Then I remembered reading that El-Kelaâ-M'Gouna has a Festival of Roses during May. Laughing Dove (5), House Bunting, Serin, Nightingale and Corn Bunting singing, House Sparrows common. On the eastern side of the town, gathering on wires was a festival of doves: Turtle Dove (24), Collared Dove (1) and Palm Dove (7). Some Feral Pigeons on nearby roofs weren't allowed to join the party.

• Boumalne du Dadès: Stopped at a cafe next to the Shell petrol station. Cattle Egret flew over.

'THE TAGDILT TRACK', (PISTE DE TAGDILT) TAGDILT PLATEAU, BOUMALNE DU DADÈS

[1563m · 31º 21' 58.0" N  005º 57' 33.5" W]
Drove the famous track across the stony reg plateau towards Tagdilt. Heading east from Boumalne, take the track to the right (at the Tinerhri 58 stone post) approximately two kilometres from the Shell petrol station. The track is still passable for an ordinary car though we gave up about a kilometre from the orchard as one spot looked a bit dodgy. Still, most of the best section was covered 1540-1815h. The area is exposed and the vegetation is sparse, consisting of spiny, xerophytic plants. Despite this the birds can initially be hard to find until you adapt your field craft for the terrain. Greater Short-toed Lark (common), Red-rumped Wheatear (7), Desert Wheatear (7), Trumpeter Finch (3), Long-legged Buzzard (1), Woodchat Shrike (1), Barn Swallow (20), Thekla Lark (1). At the wadi, five kilometres along the track at 31º 19' 19.1" N  005º 57' 10.3" W a superb Thick-billed Lark and two Desert Larks were located. After a further 1000 metres, where the track rises up onto a higher plateau, we counted 12 Cream-coloured Coursers, two Hoopoe Larks, several Temminck's Larks including a juvenile, Black Kite, Kestrel, Northern Wheatear and a single Bar-tailed Lark.

AUBERGE SOLEIL BLEU, BOUMALNE DU DADÈS
The 'Soleil Bleu' is the place to stay if birding in the area, judging by the number of entries in the bird log book documenting sightings back to 1994. The more hardcore may wish to 'rough it' in the car on the track, ready for sunrise.

Day 4
Wednesday 2 May 2007
Boumalne du Dadès > Tagdilt track > Goulima > Er-Rachidia

AUBERGE SOLEIL BLEU, BOUMALNE DU DADÈS
From the balcony: several pairs of House Buntings in the area, House Sparrows common, Hoopoe, Cattle Egret (two overhead and two in the Oued Dadès running through the town in the valley below), Goldfinch (4), Common Bulbul calling distantly from the Oued Dadès, Barn Swallow, Feral Rock Dove, a singing Collared Dove, and a donkey bursting it's lungs.

'THE TAGDILT TRACK', TAGDILT PLATEAU, BOUMALNE DU DADÈS
Another trip down the track in an attempt to observe displaying Hoopoe Larks and find some sandgrouse. Counts from the car at the trackside:

Desert Wheatear (3)

Greater Short-toed Lark (common)

Red-rumped Wheatear (7)

Temminck's Lark (3)

Lanner Falcon (pr) soaring overhead, appeared to be catching insects

Trumpeter Finch (16)

Desert Lark (1)

Cream-coloured Courser (14)

Thick-billed Lark (1)

Bar-tailed Lark (1)

Black Kite (7)

Thekla Lark (2)

Marsh Harrier (1)

Black-bellied Sandgrouse heard calling

After about six or seven kilometres I heard a distant, singing Hoopoe Lark on the stony plateau with sparse sagebrush. The bird was about 250 metres away around 31º 18' 39.2" N  005º 56' 48.1" W but the distinctive sad sounding song appeared to travel far across the fairly featureless landscape. Walked out to the area and discovered 3-4 displaying males performing their crazy display flight. Scoping a wider area revealed around 12 birds on the ground, one of which was fairly approachable. Bath Whites numerous.

 Boumalne du Dadès

ROAD N10: BOUMALNE DU DADÈS > GOULMINA > ER-RACHIDIA
We briefly headed down the surfaced bitumen road over the Tagdilt plain for about 10 km towards Ikniouln finding two Desert Larks, a single Hoopoe Lark and many Greater Short-toed Larks.

Continued on the drive east towards Er-Rachidia, stopping at interesting looking wadis. Noted on the drive: Trumpeter Finch, Long-legged Buzzard, White-crowned Wheatear, Woodchat Shrike, Greater Short-toed Lark, Southern Grey Shrike and many Plain Tiger and Swallowtail butterflies. Also many Spiny-tailed Lizards (Uromastyx acanthinurus) and other Agama-type lizards perched on prominent rocks at the roadside.

• 51 km west of Er-Rachidia [1102m · 31º 43' 30.6" N  004º 54' 17.3" W]  The area on the left just before the distance marker (Km-51) looked quite interesting after stopping to watch a Long-legged Buzzard here. Species found along the base of the low cliff: 40+ Trumpeter Finches, a fantastic displaying Rufous Bush Robin, Desert Wheatear (2), Temminck's Lark (fairly common), Greater Short-toed Lark (common), White-crowned Wheatear (pr at nest site), and a Western Olivaceous Warbler on low bushes. Bath Whites abundant.

• 43.5 km west of Er-Rachidia [1098m · 31º 45' 14.7" N  004º 50' 03.9" W] Fairly large, well vegetated wadi, still damp in places, surrounded by barren steppe. An excellent spot with at least four displaying Lesser Short-toed Larks though no Desert Warblers found. Hoopoe Lark (4), Thick-billed Lark (1), Spectacled Warbler (5 singing mm), Trumpeter Finch (5+), Desert Wheatear (1), migrant Whinchat (m), Melodious Warbler (3), Greater Short-toed Lark, Southern Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, and numerous Hummingbird Hawk Moths and Striped Hawk Moths. Bath Whites abundant. Clouded Yellow and Painted Lady common. Small, blue lycaenid noted here.

Cryptically-coloured inhabitants relying on camouflage in a landscape with little cover

ROAD N10: BOUMALNE DU DADÈS > GOULMINA > ER-RACHIDIA

• 29 km west of Er-Rachidia [1059m · 31º 48' 12.8" N  004º 41' 42.2" W] Bushy wadi which I walked south for about 1000 metres. Could hear a mass of chattering sparrows in tamarisks and decided to investigate as there was no human habitation for miles around. They turned out to Spanish Sparrows with at least 100 birds in the wadi. One large tamarisk held an impressive breeding colony with at least 40 nests! A group of Fulvous Babblers (9) flew from one bush to the next and as I tracked them, discovered the area held quite a few migrants including Willow Warbler (7), Melodious Warbler (5), Western Bonelli's Warbler (2), Redstart (1), Western Olivaceous Warbler (1) as well as three territorial Spectacled Warblers. More great birds followed with Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (3), Thick-billed Lark (1) and a singing Hoopoe Lark. Working harder, I eventually found two major targets. Excellent views of a Scrub Warbler calling and singing down to five metres (but the camera was back in the car!) in a sparser area of sandy desert adjacent to the wadi. Nearby an African Desert Warbler was found. Also Desert Lark (2), Palm Dove (2), Woodchat Shrike (5) and a Southern Grey Shrike. One of the best spots on the trip!

• c21 km west of Er-Rachidia [1053m · 31º 49' 58.9" N  004º 37' 26.9" W] Three Crowned Sandgrouse flew alongside the car before diverting away.

ER-RACHIDIA
Around 200 Swifts over the town. Not specifically identified as we had trouble finding our hotel down streets with no names.

Day 5
Thursday 3 May 2007
The Tafilalt: Er-Rachidia > Vallée du Ziz > Erfoud > Dayèt Sjri > Merzouga > Erg Chebbi > Cafe Yasmina Lake

Today we headed to the only true Saharan dunes in Morocco with the spectacular Erg Chebbi rising over 200 metres above the surrounding stony deserts.

VALLÉE DU ZIZ (ROAD N13): ER-RACHIDIA > ERFOUD
Palm Dove and White-crowned Wheatear noted on the drive.

ERFOUD > MERZOUGA (END OF TARMAC ROAD)
On the northern outskirts of Erfoud, an African Desert Warbler was located close to the road. Drove quickly through Erfoud slowing only to pass the ford over the Oued Ziz where people were washing clothes. South of Erfoud, several Trumpeter Finches and Desert Larks by the roadside. Western Mourning Wheatear (m) found at 779m · 31º 22' 04.7" N  004º 08' 57.7" W in a mixed area of stony desert and small dunes. Also Temminck's Lark and White-crowned Wheatear here.

At the end of the tarmac there is fossil shop, after which it seemed like the edge of the known world. Keen to avoid guides and find our own way to Erg Chebbi, Merzouga Lake and Cafe Yasmina, we were approached by Ahmed who offered to be our guide. He did know where to find Desert Sparrow, coursers and flamingos so we hired him for the day and following morning for 150 dirhams. We were soon heading south across the hamada, finding Hoopoe Lark, Cream-coloured Courser, and Trumpeter Finch.

• Wadi at Auberge Kasbah Derkaoua: Palm Dove (2), Black-eared Wheatear (1), White-crowned Wheatear (5), Turtle Dove (20), Fulvous Babblers, Spectacled Warbler (1), Melodious Warbler (4), Trumpeter Finch (9), Woodchat Shrike (3), Collared Dove (1), Crested Lark (2), Southern Grey Shrike (2), Western Olivaceous Warbler (3) and House Sparrow (common). Driving south across the reg, following Ahmeds excellent directions, we saw the orange dunes of the erg getting closer, dozens of dust devils and mirages. Then, a massive mirage turned out to be a lake for real - the Dayèt Sjri near Merzouga.

DAYÈT SJRI/DAYÈT MERZOUGA (aka MERZOUGA LAKE/LAC DE MERZOUGA/TAMEZGUIDAT)
Vast amount of shallow water in this temporary lake (completely dry most years) hosting large numbers of migrant and breeding birds in an otherwise inhospitable landscape, save for a few tamarisks and acacias. Birds, particularly terns and stilts were over the whole lake so we surveyed three points. Large numbers of Vagrant Emperor dragonflies.

• 1st stop at northern end:

Greater Flamingo (1) though over 100 'scoped in the distance

Ruddy Shelduck (19)

Black Tern (80+)

Back-winged Stilt (abundant)

Dunlin (10)

Little Stint (4)

Broad-billed Sandpiper (1)

Common Sandpiper (20)

Ringed Plover (1)

Green Sandpiper (2)

Kentish Plover (2)

Little Egret (1)

Redshank (2)

• 2nd stop on western edge:

Curlew Sandpiper (2)

Greenshank (2)

Kentish Plover (several broods)

Temminck's Stint (1)

Ruddy Shelduck (31, plus a creche of 24 ducklings)

Avocet (4)

Black-winged Stilt (abundant)

Green Sandpiper (2)

Little Ringed Plover (2)

Wood Sandpiper (1)

Common Sandpiper (abundant)

Little Stint (6)

Black Tern (common)

Gull-billed Tern (1)

Whiskered Tern (10+)

Marbled Duck (4)

Brown-necked Raven (2)

• 3rd stop on southern end:

Greater Flamingo (118, inc 22 juveniles)

Gull-billed Tern (18)

Little Stint (100+)

Black Tern (35)

Red-knobbed Coot (4)

Black-necked Grebe (4)

Spoonbill (2)

Grey Heron (4 ads + juv)

Black-winged Stilt (100+)

Ruddy Shelduck (9 + b/6)

Greenshank (4)

Curlew Sandpiper (1)

Little Egret (8)

Avocet (1)

White Stork (2)

Marsh Harrier (1)

Yellow-legged Gull (a lonesome 1st-S)

Swallowtail butterflies, possibly Desert Swallowtail (Papilio saharae).

 Greater Flamingos on the Dayèt Sjri · Beetle Trail · Tents in the Dunes at Erg Chebbi

ERG CHEBBI: MERZOUGA > AUBERGE YASMINA
• Oasis at Hassi Beidi: Many Green Toads in the irrigation channels between the date palms. Blackcap (f), Palm Doves singing, Melodious Warbler (2), Western Olivaceous Warbler (1), Blackbird (m), Turtle Dove and Collared Dove.

• Western edge of the impressive Saharan dunes of Erg Chebbi: We checked various cafes along here for Desert Sparrow, particularly around the resting camels. Just south of Cafe Dunes d'Or we found a chirping male Desert Sparrow in a palm. Another major target found! Went back for the 'scope and camera and on returning the bird flew out and disappeared into the dunes. White-crowned Wheatears, House Sparrows and Collared Doves were found around all the cafes. Best were Bar-tailed Lark (2) and Woodchat Shrike (4).

'CAFE YASMINA LAKE' AUBERGE YASMINA, ERG CHEBBI
The Cafe Yasmina has expanded to form the very comfortable Auberge Yasmina where we experienced excellent hospitality, food and a drumming session led by Hassan on the Tebilats in the evening. On arrival we enjoyed more mint tea on the terrace with spectacular views of the dunes and lake. Not as spectacular though as the Barbary Falcon that flew low over! Headed into the dunes and explored the tamarisks around the lake. No Desert Sparrows located here unfortunately.

Ruddy Shelduck (20+)

Marbled Duck (2)

Black Tern (10+)

Little Grebe (2 prs)

Moorhen (pr)

Turtle Dove (20+)

White-crowned Wheatear (3),

Western Olivaceous Warbler (1)

Common Sandpiper (common)

Yellow Wagtail

Collared Dove (4)

Bar-tailed Lark (4)

After dinner, around 2000h, I headed out under a full moon with the torch to search for Egyptian Nightjar. Explored the lake margins, tamarisks and the stony plateau of the hamada. The wind soon picked up and before long was blowing strongly - not ideal gypojar finding conditions. Difficult to hear anything and much sand was soon blowing. No nightjars found but I did see a Desert Fox (Fennec) in the torch light.

Day 6
Friday 4 May 2007
Auberge Yasmina > Erfoud > Vallée du Ziz > Er-Rachidia > Tinerhri > Gorges du Todra > Tinerhri > Boumalne du Dadès

'CAFE YASMINA LAKE' AUBERGE YASMINA, ERG CHEBBI

0640h Still very windy this morning. The lake was like an inland sea. Some sandgrouse appeared to be moving overhead. Soon found a group of 47 Spotted Sandgrouse drinking on the shoreline of the lake. Excellent! More birds were passing in the distance. In a cultivated patch of sunflowers amongst the tamarisks between the auberge and the lake there appeared to be a small fall of migrants with Pied Flycatcher, Wood Warbler and several Spotted Flycatchers.

Marbled Duck (3)

Kentish Plover (5)

Ruddy Shelduck (7)

Palm Dove (1)

Turtle Dove (30+)

Common Sandpiper (2)

Western Olivaceous Warbler (1)

White-crowned Wheatear (1)

Little Grebe (pr)

Collared Dove (15+)

Green Sandpiper (1)

AUBERGE YASMINA > START OF TARMAC TO ERFOUD
Ahmed was going to take us to another oasis to the north of the erg but, due to the conditions, we decided to start the long road back towards Marrakech. Cream-coloured Courser (pr), Bar-tailed Lark (1), Hoopoe Lark (1), White-crowned Wheatear (2) and Woodchat Shrike (2).

START OF TARMAC > ERFOUD
After c1 km another Hoopoe Lark at 31º 20' 28.6" N  004º 07' 53.29" W 777m. Flock of over 100 Common Swifts heading north. House Martin (2) in Efroud.

ERFOUD > ER-RACHIDIA (ROAD N13)
In the Ziz valley a Blue-cheeked Bee-eater was perched on roadside wires just south of Aoufous at 31º 40' 09.4" S  004º 11' 26.49" W 883m. House Bunting and Palm Dove fairly common. Booted Eagle (pale), Barn Swallow (10+) and Pallid Swift (2) at the Erfoud Km-50 post.

ER-RACHIDIA > TINERHIR (ROAD N10)
• 20 km west of Er-Rachidia, close to a roadside tower (opposite the antenna/cafe), we took a track to the left, going south towards a gorge with palms and tamarisks [1033m · 31º 49' 14.7" N  004º 36' 26.4" W] The deep wadi produced some good birding.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (4)

European Bee-eater (1)

Trumpeter Finch (16 in wadi plus flock of c100 at start of track)

Spanish Sparrow (10+)

Woodchat Shrike (4)

Rufous Bush Robin (2 singing mm)

Ruddy Shelduck (1)

Little Ringed Plover (pr)

Western Olivaceous Warbler (8)

Spotted Flycatcher (6)

White-crowned Wheatear (5)

Greater Short-toed Lark (4)

Barn Swallow (5)

Pallid Swift (3)

Melodious Warbler (3)

Blackbird (singing m)

Turtle Dove (20)

Common Sandpiper (1)

• c41 km west of Er-Rachidia [1133m · 31º 44' 53.7" N  004º 50' 55.8" W]

Screeched to an emergency stop here as I thought I glanced a Western Mourning Wheatear on a small ridge to the left. Lying on the road a few metres in front was a dead Northern Wheatear. Walked back and located a stunning male Mourning Wheatear along with a live Northern Wheatear, Black-eared Wheatear, Temminck's Lark (2), several Greater Short-toed Larks, a single Fulvous Babbler (where were it's friends?), Woodchat Shrike (2mm/1f inc display and song), Melodious Warbler (2) and 75 Swift sp high overhead. Further west along the road we encountered our only rain of the trip as a heavy storm appeared to be progressing in a westerly direction.

GORGES DU TODRA
Very touristy, many people selling things at the roadside including camel souvenirs woven from plants. Fee of five dirhams to enter the top of the gorge. Good range of birds, best being an immature Bonelli's flying over and a singing Tristram's Warbler.

Alpine Swift (20+)

Crag Martin (40+)

Pallid Swift (50+)

Black Wheatear (1)

House Martin (4)

Black Redstart

Hoopoe

Cetti's Warbler (4 singing mm heard)

Nightingale (5 singing mm heard)

Serins singing

House Bunting

Kestrel

Common Bulbuls heard

Grey Wagtail (1)

Spotted Flycatcher

House Sparrow

TINERHIR > BOUMALNE DU DADÈS (ROAD N10)
Cream-coloured Courser (2) 7 km west of Tinerhir at 31º 28' 29.6" N  005º 34' 10.8" W

White-crowned Wheatear

Trumpeter Finch

Long-legged Buzzard (8 km east of Boumalne)

Red-rumped Wheatear (common within 8 km of Boumalne)

Desert Wheatear (common within 8 km of Boumalne)

Barn Swallow

Around one and a half hours before dusk, from within eight kilometres of Boumalne du Dadès we saw large numbers of Swifts flying west to northwest on either side of the road. It soon became apparent that several thousand, if not tens of thousands of birds were moving over a wide front through the Dadès valley. Stopping to scan, there were flocks of Swifts stretching as far as the eye could see all the way from the High Atlas foothills in the north, to the Jbel Sarhro foothills in the south. All the way to Boumalne the sky was full of Swifts. We arrived back at Auberge Soleil Bleu for another night where the masses of Swifts were obviously being pushed west ahead of the rain. I counted 200 birds per minute flying over a 200 metre stretch. Both Pallid and Common appeared to be present. Well over a 100,000 birds may have been involved in the movement. This was the most spectacular migration event I have ever witnessed. Sand Martin and Barn Swallow around the auberge.

Day 7
Saturday 5 May 2007
Boumalne du Dadès > Ouarzazate > Tizi-n-Tichka > Taddert > Toufliah > Âït-Ourir > Marrakech

BOUMALNE DU DADÈS > OUARZAZATE > TIZI-N-TICHKA (ROAD N10)
• Auberge Soleil Bleu: House Buntings singing. White-crowned Wheatear and House Sparrow in the courtyard. Cattle Egrets on outskirts of the town.

• On the drive: Woodchat Shrike (11+), Southern Grey Shrike (2), Trumpeter Finch, Desert Wheatear, Greater Short-toed lark, European Bee-eater, Barn Swallow, White-crowned Wheatear, Kestrel, Red-rumped Swallow, Turtle Dove, Goldfinch, White Stork, Thekla Lark, House Sparrow, Spotted Flycatcher, House Bunting, Feral Rock Dove, Booted Eagle, Common Bulbul, and many Plain Tigers.

TOUFLIAH
Stopped at the roadside cafe again for mint tea. House Bunting singing on nearby roof and a pair coming for crumbs amongst the tables on the terrace. Crossbills passing. Nightingale and Common Bulbul singing from the lush, cultivated stream in the valley below. Birded along the roadside hoping for Levaillant's Green Woodpecker again - no luck this time. Short-toed Treecreeper singing from a large pine. Nice views of the local races of Coal Tit, Great Tit, Chaffinch and Great Spotted Woodpecker. Sparrowhawk (m) soaring over the valley. Also African Blue Tit, Spotted Flycatcher, Wren, Serin, Blackbird and Wood Pigeon (20+).

 Stopping for a lark · Billingual road sign · Flying home

MARRAKECH
Within eight kilometres of the city we saw our first blue 'eye patch' Magpies (mauritanica) of the trip as well as numerous Common Bulbuls regularly flying over the road. Also Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, Turtle Dove, Spotless Starling, Collared Dove, Feral Pigeon, Kestrel, House Sparrow, Pallid Swift and Greenfinch. Looked for somewhere stay on the outskirts of the city without any luck. Crazy drive through the city, stopping at six hotels, all fully booked and crammed with European tourists. Up until now we had heard only two other British voices all week. While Lisa was checking out a hotel I checked out the masses of Pallid Swifts overhead, finding two Little Swifts. Decided to rough it in the car, sleeping in the airport car park until our flight at 0900h the following morning.

Day 8
Sunday 6 May 2007
Aeroport Marrakech-Menara > London Luton

AEROPORT MARRAKECH-MENARA
Woke up at 0400h. Light at 0545h. Common Bulbuls in a patch of trees on the edge of the airport car park. Returned the car and checked in with the final birds of the trip being 50+ Pallid Swifts, 10+ Spotless Starlings and some House Sparrows around the airport terminal buildings.

SPECIES LIST - MOROCCO - 29 Apr > 06 May 2007

 All photographs © 2007  F. S. Simpson & L. Ketchen

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