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Costa de la Luz

& Doñana

10 - 20 April 2007

Observers: F. Simpson

INTRODUCTION

This was my fourth trip on a university field course based around Zahara de los Atunes on the Costa de la Luz in southern Spain. Much of the time was spent around Zahara, Barbate and the Valle de Ojén in the Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales. This report documents some of the northward spring migration of birds from North Africa into the European continent as well as the early butterflies and other rich wildlife of the area. Highlight was a day trip to the edge of the Northern Marismas in Doñana National Park.

Previous Trip Reports:  2023 | 2019 | 2018 | 2017 | 2016 | 2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2003

 HIGHLIGHTS

Lesser Crested Tern, Little Bittern, Squacco Heron, Purple Heron, Black Stork, Glossy Ibis, Greater Flamingo, Red-crested Pochard, Eurasian Black Vulture, Bonelli's Eagle, Red-knobbed Coot, Marbled Duck, Purple Swamp-hen, Little Bustard, Audouin's Gull, Slender-billed Gull, Caspian Tern, Gull-billed Tern, Whiskered Tern, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Calandra Lark, Azure-winged Magpie

LITERATURE, REFERENCES & SITE GUIDES USED

1.      Garcia, E. & Paterson, A. 1994. Where To Watch Birds in Southern Spain. Helm.
2.      Butler, J. R. 2001. Birdwatching on Spain's Southern Coast. Santana Books
3.      Gosney, D. 1996. Finding Birds in Southern Spain. Gostours Guide.
4.      Simpson, F. 2003. Trip Report: Costa de la Luz, 2-12 April 2003.
5.      Simpson, F. 2005. Trip Report: Costa de la Luz & Tanger, Morocco, 30 Mar-10 Apr 2005.
6.      Simpson, F. 2006. Trip Report: Costa de la Luz, 25 Mar-4 Apr 2006.
7.      Tolman, T. & Lewington, R. 1997. Butterflies of Britain & Europe. Collins.
8.      Arnold, N. & Ovenden, D. 2004. A Field Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of Britain & Europe. Collins.
9.      Svensson, L. et al. 1999. Bird Guide. HarperCollins.

ITINERARY

Day 01       10/04/07     London Gatwick > Malaga > Algeciras > Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes
Day 02       11/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > El Almarchal
Day 03       12/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Conil de la Frontera > Faro de Trafalgar > Breña de Barbate
Day 04       13/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén > Parque Natural de Los Alcornoclaes
Day 05       14/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Playa de Zahara > Atlanterra
Day 06       15/04/07     Parque Nacional de Doñana
Day 07       16/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén > Parque Natural de Los Alcornoclaes
Day 08       17/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > La Janda
Day 09       18/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Breña de Barbate > Cabo Trafalgar > Marismas de Barbate
Day 10       19/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Breña de Barbate > Marismas de Barbate

Day 11       20/04/07     Zahara de los Atunes > Malaga > London

THE DIARY

Day 1
Tuesday 10 April 2007
London > Malaga > Algeciras > Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes

MALAGA > ALGECIRAS > TARIFA > ZAHARA-DE-LOS-ATUNES
Cloudy with some light rain. Species noted on the drive: Spotless Starling, House Sparrow, Feral Pigeon, Booted Eagle (2), Red-rumped Swallow, Kestrel sp., Yellow-legged Gull, Swift sp., Crag Martin (2), Cattle Egret, Bee-eater, Crested Lark, Turtle Dove, Griffon Vulture, and Black Kite. Between Algeciras and Tarifa up to 300 Black Kites lingering over the coastal hills; new arrivals probably waiting for the poor weather over the mountains to lift. Also several Booted Eagles and harriers.

VENTA DEL RETIN - ZAHARA ROAD
Marsh Harrier (m) flying along the roadside. Calandra Larks song-flighting. Several White Storks soaring. Bee-eaters heading inland.

HOTEL GRAN SOL, ZAHARA-DE-LOS-ATUNES
First to arrive so had a look along the Avenida de la Playa. Lang's Short-tailed Blue, Clouded Yellow and Large White around the plants and trees along the road to the beach. Three Griffon Vultures overhead. Zitting Cisticola song-flighting over the street and castle. House Sparrows abundant, nesting in the castle walls. Spotless Starlings common. Black Kite overhead. Barn Swallow and Feral Pigeon also noted.

Day 2
Wednesday 11 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > El Almarchal

PLAYA DE ZAHARA
Sardinian Warbler calling from scrub. Crested Larks and Zitting Cisticolas displaying. Corn Bunting singing. Kentish Plovers on the beach, probably attempting to nest. Yellow-legged Gulls offshore. Collared Dove (2). Swifts arriving. Goldfinch overhead. Praying Mantis photographed. Painted Lady (5).

SMALL ESTUARY ON THE EDGE OF ZAHARA (Km-9 on the Barbate > Zahara road)
Kentish Plover (pr), Spotless Starling (2), Barn Swallow (2), House Martin (2), and Painted Lady (1). Passage of immature Yellow-legged Gulls along the coast.

SIERRA DE RETIN (Military zone hillside viewed from roadside around km-9 on the Barbate > Zahara road)
Thekla Lark displaying, Corn Bunting singing, Stonechat singing & Zitting Cisticola displaying.

BARBATE > ZAHARA (Km-6)
Nightingale singing, Sardinian Warbler and Linnet (pr).

BARBATE > ZAHARA (marsh near entrance to Ministero de Defensa)
Cattle Egret, Swift sp. overhead, Zitting Cisticolas common. Continuous rain from early afternoon, cleared after 1700h then sun.

EL ALMARCHAL
Little Bustard (2) calling from wheat field behind the prickly pear hedge on the left as you drive down the hill from La Zarzuela to Almarchal. Bee-eater (5), Nightingale singing, Red-legged Partridges calling, Corn Buntings common. Also noted:  Zitting Cisticola, Stonechat, Linnet, Goldfinch, Collared Dove and Spotless Starling.

Day 3
Thursday 12 April 2007
Zahara > Conil de la Frontera >  Faro de Trafalgar > Pinar de la Breña, Parque Natural Acantilado Pinar de Barbate

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES > CONIL DE LA FRONTERA
Cattle Egret (30+) noted on the drive. Purple Heron near Barbate. Montagu's Harrier over a cereal field. Bee-eater (10+).

CORTIJO LOS VILLARES, CONIL DE LA FRONTERA
Polistes study site, 2 km E of Conil at Cortijo Los Villares. Light passage of Collared Pratincoles noted overhead. Montagu's Harrier hunting over a cereal field. Nightingale singing. Quail singing/calling from wheat field. Pallid and Common Swifts observed at close range. Subalpine Warbler. Crested Larks and Common Buntings common. Calandra Larks and Zitting Cisticolas song-flighting. Also noted: Spotless Starling, Stonechat, Collared Dove, Barn Swallow, Clouded Yellow, Speckled Wood, Painted Lady, Large White and Small White. Two male Mallards flushed from a ditch by a pack of feral-looking dogs. Later a female flew out.

FARO DE TRAFALGAR
Arctic Skua (adult pale) NW. Gannet (1 ad + 10 imm) NW. Sandwich Tern (4) NW. Cory's Shearwater and Balearic Shearwater milling around distantly offshore. Yellow-legged Gull (100+) both NW/SE. Cormorant (1). Sanderling, Dunlin and Kentish Plover in small groups, moving along the coast. Black-tailed Godwit (2) SE. Also observed: Pallid Swift, Common Swift, House Martin, Barn Swallow, Serin, Spotless Starling, Stonechat, Sardinian Warbler, Meadow Pipit, Goldfinch, Greenfinch, Bee0eater, Linnet and Crested Lark. Common Darter (1).

PINAR DE LA BREÑA, PARQUE NATURAL ACANTILADO PINAR DE BARBATE
A brief look in the Stone Pine woodlands this afternoon. Short-toed Treecreeper, Firecrest, Crested Tit, Blackbird, Great Tit, and Chaffinch noted. Some flowers photographed: Three-leaved Snowflake (Leucojum trichophyllum), Star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum), Thrift sp. (Ameria macrophylla), Dipcadi (Dipcadi serotinum). A few Little Egrets observed in the Barbate Estuary on the drive back.

Day 4
Friday 13 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén > Parque Natural de Los Alcornoclaes

ZAHARA > VALLE DE OJÉN
Species noted on drive: Montagu's Harrier, Stonechat, Black-eared Wheatear, White Stork, Cattle Egret, Calandra Lark, Booted Eagle, Bee-eater, Crested Lark, Griffon Vulture, Marsh Harrier and Spotless Starling.

ARROYO DEL TIRADERO, VALLE DE OJÉN, PARQUE NATURAL DE LOS ALCORNOCALES
Brimstone, Speckled Wood, Blue Tit, Robin, Wren, Greenfinch, Skink sp., Subalpine Warbler, Short-toed Treecreeper, Blackcap, Chaffinch, Blackbird, Crested Tit feeding young, Large Tortoiseshell, Spanish Festoon, Cuckoo singing, Egyptian Grasshopper, Mantis sp., Jay, Great Tit, Western Bonelli's Warbler, Long-tailed Tit, Bee-eater, Provence Hairstreak, Small Copper, Iberian Chiffchaff singing, Griffon Vulture (8 o/h), Short-toed Eagle (1), Black Stork (1 o/h), Wood Pigeon (2 o/h), Hawfinch (2+) and Woodchat Shrike.

Day 5
Saturday 14 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Playa de Zahara > Atlanterra

PLAYA DE ZAHARA
1040h Yellow Wagtail (1) NW. Crested Lark and Corn Bunting singing.

ATLANTERRA
1120h Cistus study site. Even more of the Mediterranean scrub now trashed for luxury pads. 1155h c210 White Storks flew north-west across the Sierra de la Plata. Sardinian Warblers abundant. Nightingale singing. Peregrine and Kestrel overhead

Day 6
Sunday 15 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Sevilla > Parque Nacional de Doñana

ZAHARA > SEVILLA > EL ROCÍO, DOÑANA
This was our day off so I, along with Kanchon Dasmahapatra, Stefan Harrison, Lisa de Silva and Dan Willcox made a day trip to Doñana, leaving at 0345h and returning at 0100h the following day. About 100 species were recorded without trying too hard.

EL ROCÍO, PARQUE NACIONAL DE DOÑANA
0745h Just starting to get light when we arrived, with an atmospheric mist hanging over the Spoonbill (32), Purple Heron (1), Blue-headed Wagtail (2), Squacco Heron (4), Greater Flamingo (22), Whiskered Tern (100+), Grey Heron (4), Black-tailed Godwit (20+), Black Kite, Little Egret (4), Reed Warblers singing, Pochard displaying, Red-crested Pochard (m flying around), Moorhen, Coot, Mallard, Spotless Starling, Barn Swallow, Sand Martin, House Martin, Goldfinch, House Sparrow, Blackbird and Crested Lark.

LA ROCINA
Nightingales singing, Serin singing, Goldfinch (2), House Sparrow (common), Cuckoo singing, and Collared Dove singing. Charco de la Boca: Blackcap and Serin singing, Savi's Warbler (3 reeling mm), Cetti's Warbler (common), Squacco Heron (1), Little Egret (1), Moorhen, Mallard, Coot, Reed Warblers singing, Tree Sparrows around the nest boxes, Whiskered Tern (40+), Pochard, White Storks (3 prs) nesting on pylons with sparrows in the nest bases, Red-crested Pochard (m), Hoopoe (2 singing mm), Blue-headed Wagtail, Black Kite, Short-toed Treecreeper (3 singing mm), Woodchat Shrike (m).

DRIVE TO THE EDGE OF THE NORTHERN MARISMAS
El Rocío (odometer zeroed) to Villamanrique

1. Head out of El Rocio towards Almonte.
2. 1.8km after the 'leaving El Rocio' sign (the name with a red line through it), turn right towards Villamanrique.
3. After 15.8km, turn right opposite the Villamanrique 4km sign.
4. Continue for 4km and turn right at the second roundabout (formerly crossroads).
5. At the T-junction, turn left.
6. After 2km, turn right just before a small bridge.
7. After 1km, follow the signs for the centre by turning right. Alternatively take the next right (see map).
8. Follow from here on gravel tracks for 25km.

9.8 km Azure-winged Magpie

10.6 km Black-eared Wheatear

13.5 km Azure-winged Magpie (7), Woodchat Shrike. Wood Pigeon (2) over Stone Pine woodland

18.9 km Black Kite

20.0 km White Stork (6)

20.8 km Woodchat Shrike

21.6 km Tawny Pipit, Crested Lark

24.9 km Collared Pratincole flew over the road, White Stork nest

Gravel tracks to the Northern Marismas (odometer zeroed)

Took the second track right (south toward the Valverde centre) before turning right and arriving at the ibis/heron/egret rookery from the east.

1.0 km Black Kite (7), Kestrel (3)

1.3 km Bee-eater (5+), Woodchat Shrike, White Stork (5 nests on farm buildings)

1.8 km Spoonbill, Little Egret

2.4 km White Stork (2)

4.9 km Quail calling

5.0 km Quail calling, first of many Blue-headed Wagtails

5.2 km Spoonbill, Grey Heron

5.4 km First of many Greater Short-toed Larks, Woodchat Shrike

6.1 km Woodchat Shrike

6.5 km Marsh Harrier

7.1 km Marsh Harrier (2)

7.6 km Swift sp. o/h, Woodchat Shrike

8.3 km Woodchat Shrike

8.8 km Woodchat Shrike

11.2 km Lesser Short-toed Lark

12.0 km Hoopoe

13.1 km Black Kite (2)

14.9 km Quail calling

15.2 km White Stork (31) soaring, Quail calling

16.0 km Woodchat Shrike

17.2 km Turtle Dove (2)

Lagoon at 17.5 km

Black-winged Stilt (65+), Avocet (30+), Gull-billed Tern (10), Montagu's Harrier, Spoonbill, Quail, Sand Martin, Little Egret, Black-headed Gull, White Stork (57+), Zitting Cisticola, Corn Bunting, Redshank and Crested Lark.

Lagoon  at 20.4 km

Glossy Ibis (3), dozens of Black-winged Stilts and Avocets, Gull-billed Tern (2), White Stork (19), several Cattle and Little Egrets, Meadow Pipits passing overhead.

Lagoon at 22.5 km

Greater Flamingo (32), Glossy Ibis (7), Slender-billed Gull (2 x 1st-cy), and Whiskered Tern (50+).

23.1 km Golden Oriole (m) resting on a fence in this wide-open treeless landscape

23.2 km Great Crested Grebe (3+ prs)

23.4 km Slender-billed Gull (3), Black-headed Gull (ad in breeding plumage)

23.5 km Greater Flamingo (120+)

24.0 km Raven, Griffon Vulture, Black Kite, Spoonbill

24.7 km Garganey (pr)

CENTRO DE INTERPRETACION JOSE ANTONIO VALVERDE (CENTRO CERRADO GARRIDO)
1300h An impressive 250+ Glossy Ibis in the rookery. Seemed much more extensive than when I was last here in 2002. Hundreds of Cattle and Little Egrets, Several Purple Herons breeding in the colony. Also Little Bittern and Night Heron. Greater Flamingo (100+), Greenshank (13), Red-crested Pochard (2), Gadwall (1), numerous House Sparrows nesting in thatched roof of the visitor centre, White Wagtail (2), Black-billed Magpie and a Pheasant calling. Black Vulture (2) and Griffon Vulture (1) high overhead.

Gravel tracks to El Rocío (odometer zeroed at the Valverde visitor centre)

Took the western track back, heading north.

0.5 km Gadwall (pr)

0.6 km Red-crested Pochard (5), Little Grebe (pr)

0.9 km Red-knobbed Coot (1), Marbled Duck (pr)

2.4 km Little Owl on the derelict building

2.7 km Marsh Harrier, Black Kite

3.5 km Gadwall (m)

4.1 km Woodchat Shrike

4.5 km Greater Flamingo (c200), Marsh Harrier

6.9 km Woodchat Shrike

8.2 km Bee-eater (6), Marsh Harrier, Common Sandpiper (2)

9.6 km Short-toed Eagle

10.6 km Black Stork at the roadside

12.1 km Spoonbill (4) feeding on roadside ditch

13.7 km Spoonbill, Little Egret

13.8 km Great Reed Warbler (several in phragmites strip), Black Kite, Mallard (pr)

15.7 km Black-winged Stilts nesting in dry scrape, Mallard (f + b/13)

15.8 km Kentish Plover in roadside scrape

17.5 km Greater Short-toed Lark (3)

19.0 km Lesser Short-toed Lark

Bee-eater (10), Short-toed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Turtle Dove at the end of the gravel track.

Villamanrique to El Rocío

Common Buzzard at Km-9, Black Kite at the El Rocío junction

EL ACEBUCHE
Black-billed Magpie and Black-eared Wheatear on the access road into the reserve. White Storks nesting on the roof of the information centre. Several pairs of Barn Swallows nesting in the courtyard and many fledged young outside. Spent most of the time trying to photograph the Azure-winged Magpies around the picnic tables.

Walked out to the hides: Red-crested Pochard (3), Eurasian Coot, Cetti's Warbler, Little Egret, Great Reed Warbler, Little Grebe, Mallard, Spoonbill, Great Tit, Spotless Starling, Azure-winged Magpie, White Stork, barn Swallow, Serin, Blackbird, Hoopoe singing, Bee-eater (10+), Southern Grey Shrike, Woodchat Shrike, Common Buzzard,

EL ROCÍO
1945-2000h Squacco Heron (3) perched on fence near the main road, Gull-billed Tern (5), Cetti's Warbler singing, Spoonbill (5), Greater Flamingo (30+), Dunlin (10+), Black-winged Stilt, Barn Swallow (500+), Spotless Starling, Moorhen, Pochard, Bee-eater, Coot, Mallard, Grey Heron, Black Kite, White Stork, House Sparrow, Sand Martin, House Martin and Goldfinch.

EL ROCÍO > ALMONTE
Azure-winged Magpie (3).

Day 7
Monday 16 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén > Parque Natural de Los Alcornoclaes

ARROYO DEL TIRADERO, VALLE DE OJÉN, PARQUE NATURAL DE LOS ALCORNOCALES
Partly cloudy and cool, with cloud low over the peaks and ridges at times. Raptors observed from the one spot over the afternoon: Bonelli's Eagle (1), Short-toed Eagle (2), Griffon Vulture (2), Booted Eagle (2), Black Kite (1) and Kestrel (1). Subalpine Warbler singing, Kingfisher diverted over land due to students working in the stream, Raven (1), Wren singing, Chaffinch singing, Blackcap singing, Blackbird singing, Robin singing, Bee-eater (2 present throughout plus 3 o/h at 1325h), Barn Swallow (6), Short-toed Treecreeper singing, Cuckoo singing, Large Tortoiseshell, Jay, Spanish Festoon, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Western Bonelli's Warbler singing, Crested Tit (2), Firecrest singing, and Great Spotted Woodpecker.

Day 8
Tuesday 17 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > La Janda

LA JANDA
Track along the south side of the canal, running parallel to N340/E5 (accessed opposite the A-2221 road to Zahara). After 3-4 km a marsh on the southern side of the track held: Glossy Ibis (1), Purple Swamp-hen (4), Collared Pratincole (4+), Spoonbill, Mallard (24+), Black-winged Stilt (20+), Greenshank, Little Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper.

Further along the track: Short-toed Eagle, Black Kite (2), White Stork (10+), Grey Heron, Cetti's Warblers singing, Great Reed Warbler singing, Moorhens in the canal.

Day 9
Wednesday 18 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Breña de Barbate > Cabo Trafalgar > Marismas de Barbate

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Flock of c30 Goldfinches flew in off the sea at 0900h.

PINAR DE LA BREÑA, PARQUE NATURAL ACANTILADO PINAR DE BARBATE
Bee-eater migration evident late morning - birds counted heading NW:

Bee-eaters (NW)
1105h	10
1115h	18
1121h	7
1131h	2
1201h	3
1219h	3

Montagu's Harrier (2) flew in off the sea, Kestrel (pr), Nightingale and Wren singing from scrub at the base of the cliff, Serin (2 overhead), Blackbird, Crested Tit, Yellow-legged Gulls passing, another Montagu's Harrier overhead, Sardinian Warbler and Great Tit singing, Greenfinch (o/h), Barn Swallow (o/h).

Torre del Tajo: Jackdaw (50+), Yellow-legged Gull (20+), Peregrine, Kestrel, Sardinian Warbler (2-3 singing mm), and Nightingale singing.

CABO TRAFALGAR
A few Sanderling, Ringed Plover and Kentish Plover.

MARISMAS DE BARBATE
Lesser Crested Tern (1), Caspian Tern (7), Redshank (6), Little Tern (18), Yellow Wagtail, Black-winged Stilt (7), Common Sandpiper (2), Linnet (4), Whimbrel (4), Cormorant (4), Yellow-legged Gull, Barn Swallow, Grey Plover (2), Goldfinch, House Sparrow, Lesser Black-backed Gull (4), Collared Dove, Common Swift, Pallid Swift, Greenshank (4), Crested Lark, Sand Martin, Zitting Cisticola, Spotless Starling, Little Egret (4), Feral Pigeon, Melodious Warbler, Gull-billed Tern (4), Spoonbill (4), Bee-eater (9+11), Nightingale, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Kestrel, Griffon Vulture (7), Corn Buntings singing, White Stork (181) over the Sierra del Retín, Montagu's Harrier (m) flew in from the coast at 1520h, Hobby, Cattle Egret, Mallard (15+), Swift (200+ over at 1525h), also a movement of House Martins at this time, Sandwich Tern (4 o/h 1532) and Grey Heron.

Day 10
Thursday 19 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Breña de Barbate > Marismas de Barbate

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES > BARBATE
Short-toed Eagle on a pylon near the entrance gate to the military zone. Swift sp (100+) over the port area of Barbate.

PINAR DE LA BREÑA: SENDERO TORRE DEL TAJO
Serin, Sardinian Warbler, Greenfinch, Chaffinch, Wren, Great Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper, Blue Tit, Blackbird, Red-legged Partridge (pr), Bee-eater.

Trail to base of cliff (from road to Caños de Meca, take the 2nd car park on left, walk out towards cliff, turn right after c70m then take trail down, much gorse, broom, juniper): Nightingale, Sardinian Warbler and Wren singing, Kestrel, Yellow-legged Gulls passing, Moorish Geckos in abandoned building, Bee-eater, Jackdaw, Greenfinch, Blackbird, Turtle Dove, Painted Lady, Large White, Clouded Yellow, Spanish Festoon and Iberian Wall Lizard.

MARISMAS DE BARBATE
Low tide, exposing deep creeks, and a strong heat haze. Slender-billed Gull (2), Sandwich Tern (12), Spoonbill (9), Caspian Tern (2), Audouin's Gull (1), Black-winged Stilt, Redshank, Blue-headed Wagtail, Corn Bunting, Barn Swallow, Spotless Starling, Yellow-legged Gull, Kestrel, Goldfinch, Crested Lark. Nearby at the marsh next to the entrance to the military zone: Cattle Egret (80+) feeding in long grassland. Zitting Cisticola and Corn Buntings singing. Blue-headed Wagtail (8) visible, possibly many more.

Day 11
Friday 20 April 2007
Zahara de los Atunes > Malaga > London

DRIVE BACK TO MALAGA
Usual species noted including Montagu's Harrier, White Stork, Crested Lark, Cattle Egret, Black Kite and Booted Eagle.

SPECIES LIST - COSTA DE LA LUZ 10-24 April 2007

 All photographs © 2007  F. S. Simpson

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