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Costa de la Luz

25 March - 4 April 2006

Observers: F. Simpson

INTRODUCTION

Another trip on a university field course in ecological genetics based around Zahara de los Atunes on the Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light). Much of the time was spent around Zahara, Barbate and the Valle de Ojén in the Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales. This report documents some of the northward spring migration of birds from North Africa into the European continent as well as the early butterflies and other rich wildlife of the area. Highlight was watching the (re)introduced Northern Bald Ibis flock on the coast between Zahara de los Atunes and Barbate. They appear to be relatively easy to find, if somewhat mobile.

Previous Trip Reports:  2019 | 2018 | 2017 | 2016 | 2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2003

 HIGHLIGHTS

Caspian Tern · Bonelli's Eagle · Northern Bald Ibis (reintroduced) · Little Bustard · Black Stork · Audouin's Gull · Slender-billed Gull · Thekla Lark · Short-toed Eagle · Booted Eagle · Osprey · Crag Martin · Griffon Vulture · Short-toed Lark · Calandra Lark · Pallid Swift · Southern Grey Shrike · Subalpine Warbler · Black-eared Wheatear.

LITERATURE, REFERENCES & SITE GUIDES USED

1.      Garcia, E. & Paterson, A. 1994. Where To Watch Birds in Southern Spain. Helm.
2.      Butler, J. R. 2001. Birdwatching on Spain's Southern Coast. Santana Books
3.      Gosney, D. 1996. Finding Birds in Southern Spain. Gostours Guide.
4.      Simpson, F. 2003. Trip Report: Costa de la Luz, 2-12 April 2003.
5.      Simpson, F. 2005. Trip Report: Costa de la Luz & Tanger, Morocco, 30 Mar-10 Apr 2005.
6.      Tolman, T. & Lewington, R. 1997. Butterflies of Britain & Europe. Collins.
7.      Arnold, N. & Ovenden, D. 2004. A Field Guide to the Reptiles and Amphibians of Britain & Europe. Collins.
8.      Askew, R.R. 2004. The Dragonflies of Europe. Harley Books.
9.      Svensson, L. et al. 1999. Bird Guide. HarperCollins.

ITINERARY

Day 01       25/03/06     London Gatwick > Malaga > Algeciras > Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes
Day 02       26/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes
Day 03       27/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén, Parque Natural de los Alcornocales
Day 04       28/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Atlanterra > Conil de la Frontera > Faro de Trafalgar
Day 05       29/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Barbate > Valle de Ojén, Parque Natural de los Alcornocales
Day 06       30/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Bolonia > La Janda
Day 07       31/03/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Barbate
Day 08       01/04/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Marismas del Barbate
Day 09       02/04/06     Zahara de los Atunes > La Janda > Presa de Celemin
Day 10       03/04/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Atlanterra

Day 11       04/04/06     Zahara de los Atunes > Barbate > Malaga

THE DIARY

Day 1

Saturday 25 March 2006
London Gatwick > Malaga > Algeciras > Tarifa > Zahara de los Atunes

MALAGA > TARIFA
Fairly quiet drive with little to report. Species noted: Hoopoe, Red-rumped Swallow, Crested Lark, Yellow-legged Gull, Kestrel sp, Collared Dove, Stonechat, Feral Pigeon. At El Pelayo, west of Algeciras on the N-340, c12 Griffon Vultures and five Booted Eagles on the sky. Had lunch in Tarifa watching the Lesser Kestrels over the town. Collared Dove abundant

TARIFA > ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Montagu's Harrier near Tahivilla, Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Little Egret, Grey Heron and many Cattle Egrets. Arrived in Zahara to be greeted by the large numbers of chirping House Sparrows along Avenida de la Playa. Also Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Spotless Starling, Crested Lark and Goldfinch around the Castillo de las Almadrabas opposite the Hotel Gran Sol where we were staying again this year.

Day 2

Sunday 26 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Had a quick look at the small estuary (Río El Cachon) on the north side of the town soon after dawn. Not much apart from a Kentish Plover in the sand and a Little Egret feeding in the shallow water. A Blue Rock Thrush was singing from the rocks at the end of the Sierra de Retín just above the bridge into Zahara. Small parties of Greenfinch and Goldfinch flying in off the sea. Crested Larks singing and playing Chicken with the traffic on the road out to Barbate. Corn Buntings singing from coastal meadows, dune scrub and the grazed hillside across in the military zone. Two Rock Buntings on the lower slope below the telecommunications towers at the end of the Sierra de Retín. Yellow-legged Gull out over the sea.

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Observations around the beetle study site, about 2 km southeast of the main town. Low dune system with some scrub. A flight of eight Griffon Vultures drifted off the end of the Sierra de Retín, over the town and briefly over the coast between Zahara and Atlanterra before heading back. I then noticed a spiraling flock of c60 White Storks - not sure where they originated from but may have been new arrivals across the Strait. Sardinian Warblers singing from scrub and tamarisks, Red-rumped Swallow overhead, large numbers of Egyptian Grasshoppers, Meadow Pipits heading NW along the beach, singing Stonechat, Linnet (pr), seven Moorish Geckos and two Turkish Geckos found in small stone building here, Crested Larks displaying, migrant butterflies fairly common (Clouded Yellow, Painted Lady and pierids) and a few Small Coppers and Common Blues, Goldfinches singing, two male Blackbirds fighting in scrub, House Sparrows abundant in conifer scrub on the edge of the developments, good numbers of unidentified Swifts high overhead, and a flock of 10 Bee-eaters flew NW along over the beach. Good view of the Rif Mountains in Morocco, just across the straits.

ZAHARA > LA ZARZUELA A-2221 road (used to be named CA-P 2221)
Snail study site 2 km NE of La Zarzuela at Km-5 on the minor road from Zahara to the N-340. Calandra Larks common including a group of six song-flighting together. Corn Buntings numerous with birds jangling continuously. Bee-eaters (9) flew north. A small blue-tailed green damselfly Lestes virens buzzing around a temporary pool in a rushy field corner. Mallard in another small pool at the base of a wind turbine. Pair of Montagu's Harrier hunting. Zitting Cisticola displaying. Tawny Pipit passed overhead giving sparrow-like call. Barn Swallow, Linnet, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, and Cattle Egret also noted. Several Griffon Vultures crossing the agricultural plain between Sierra de la Plata and Sierra de Retín.

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
A male Sardinian Warbler outside the Hotel Gran Sol in the Avenida de la Playa. Calling from scrub below the palm-lined one-way road system. Many House Sparrows nesting in the old walls of the Castillo de las Almadrabas.

ZAHARA > BARBATE A-2232 road
Roadside marsh at Km 5.2. There is a track end (fenced military zone) where you can park and overlook the marsh. Cattle Egret (8), Little Egret (1), Mallard (m), Zitting Cisticola, Corn Bunting and a pair of unidentified copulating hawkers.

MARISMAS DEL BARBATE
Area of salinas opposite the harbour wall. Caspian Tern fishing in a lagoon next to the road. Few waders around: Turnstone (4), Dunlin, numerous Kentish and Ringed Plovers, several Black-winged Stilts. Montagu's Harriers (3) flew in off the sea. Also Yellow-legged Gull, Cormorant, Crested Larks. Walked along to the bridge over the main estuary nearer the town. Group of 32 Black-winged Stilts, Sandwich Tern (14), Greenshank (3), Redshank, Cattle Egret, Little Egret (9), House Martin (c30) collecting mud, Common Kestrel, Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Sardinian Warbler, Barn Swallow, Corn Bunting, Spotless Starling, Yellow-legged Gull, Goldfinch and Linnet. Green-veined White, Silver-Y, Painted Lady and Clouded Yellow noted.

 Playa de Zahara de los Atunes · Waves in the Straits · White Stork Migration

Day 3

Monday 27 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Valle de Ojén, Parque Natural de los Alcornocales

ARROYO DEL TIRADERO, VALLE DE OJÉN, PARQUE NATURAL DE LOS ALCORNOCALES
The huge, humid cork oak woodlands of Los Alcornocales are though to be the largest anywhere. Water Strider study site at Arroyo del Tiradero at Km-11 on the Facinas to Los Barrios road (very bad condition): there is a gap in the scrub on the right-hand side of the track with a barbed wire 'gate'. From here it is possible to walk down the slope to the Tiradero stream lined with alders. Booted Eagle (2), Bonelli's Eagle, Short-toed Eagle and Griffon Vulture (5) overhead. Subalpine and Sardinian Warblers singing from the scrubby slopes. Blackcaps singing from riverine woodland. Plenty of bird song from Bonelli's Warbler, Cuckoo, Short-toed Treecreeper, Wren, Chaffinch, Robin, Blackbird, Great Tit, Blue Tit and Nuthatch. Bee-eaters passing overhead. Several Iberian Water Frogs around the sheltered pools and trickles running into the arroyo. Netted a Southern Marbled Newt. Several terrapins (not specifically identified) observed slipping off the stream bank into the water. Also Song Thrush, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Common Swift, Mallard, Long-tailed Tit and White Wagtail. Butterflies noted: Queen of Spain Fritillary, Large Tortoiseshell, Bath White, Spanish Festoon, Cleopatra, and Speckled Wood. Two Vagrant Emperors found. Also a single Roe Deer.

See: www.alcornocales.org

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Small pool on shore held Little Stint, Sanderling, Kentish Plover (4) and Yellow-legged Gull.

 Iberian Water Frog · Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales · Preying Mantis

Day 4

Tuesday 28 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Atlanterra > Conil > Faro de Trafalgar

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Beetle study site, about 2 km southeast of the main town. Griffon Vulture (2) overhead. Barn Swallows heading along the coast. Crested Larks displaying and Corn Buntings singing.

EL PALMAR, 2 km from CONIL DE LA FRONTERA
Polistes paper wasp study site. Pallid Swift (4) overhead, Melodious Warbler (2 singing mm), pair of Montagu's Harrier in the coastal grassland.

CONIL DE LA FRONTERA
River mouth of small estuary. Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Meadow Pipit (2) and several Barn Swallows.

FARO DE TRAFALGAR
Quick look around the lagoon before crawling over the sand to get some wader photographs. Audouin's Gull (2), Yellow-legged Gull (20+), Black-winged Stilt (16), Sanderling (40+), Turnstone (8), Dunlin (1), Kentish Plover (1), Ringed Plover (2), and White Wagtail (6+). A few Balearic and Cory's Shearwaters offshore. Also Sardinian Warbler, Tawny Pipit, Bee-eater, Crested Larks, House Martin and a pair of Blue-tailed Damselflies around a small pool in the dunes.

MARISMAS DEL BARBATE
Lesser Black-backed Gull picked out while driving past.

 Sanderling · Kentish Plover · Ringed Plover

Day 5

Wednesday 29 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Barbate > Barbate > Valle de Ojén, Parque Natural de los Alcornocales

ZAHARA > BARBATE A-2232 road (used to be named CA-P 2232)
Sand Martin (3) over the coast road. Black-winged Stilts (pr) mobbing a gull above a small roadside pool. Little Egret, Cattle Egret, House Martin, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Corn Bunting, Spotless Starling, House Sparrow and Collared Dove. People activity (collecting molluscs?) on the estuary at Barbate - no birds.

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Spotless Starling bringing nesting material from the dunes to a site in the Hotel Gran Sol. Bee-eaters passing overhead. Sandwich Tern (6) fishing just beyond the breaking waves. Yellow Wagtail flew in off the sea, calling. Mallard (3) on the sea. Gannet about one kilometre out. Also noted Barn Swallow, Crested Lark and House Sparrow.

DRIVE FROM FACINAS THROUGH PUERTO DE OJÉN
Black-eared Wheatear, Thekla Lark, Cuckoo and Serin noted.

ARROYO DEL TIRADERO, VALLE DE OJÉN, PARQUE NATURAL DE LOS ALCORNOCALES
Short-toed Eagle (3), Griffon Vulture (5), Booted Eagle (1), Sparrowhawk (1), and a Kingfisher zipped past twice. Butterflies noted Provence Hairstreak, Holly Blue, Moroccan Orange Tip, Scarce Swallowtail, Spanish Festoon, Speckled Wood, Western Dappled White, Large White, Common Blue, Brown Argus, Small White, and Painted Lady.

Day 6

Thursday 30 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Bolonia > La Janda

ATLANTERRA
Brief look around at the rockrose study site. Swallowtail, Sardinian Warbler, Blackbird, House Martin, Serin, Yellow-legged Gull, and Stonechat.

BOLONIA
Good passage of raptors (particularly Montagu's Harriers), Swifts and Bee-eaters. Biggest raptor flock was 22 Black Kites in a loose groups. Also a single Osprey observed. Northern Wheatear, Nightingale and Woodchat Shrike in vegetation along the beach. Zitting Cisticola displaying overhead. Stonechat, Crested Lark and Sardinian Warblers around the Roman remains of Baelo Claudia. Sanderling (40) and a few Kentish Plovers on the lagoon.

LA JANDA
Followed the track across the La Janda area (formerly a huge lake now drained) from the N-340 and the Zahara road junction (A-2221) - the Venta de Retín building has been repainted and no longer has any sign on it. Met a couple from Nottinghamshire here looking for bustards. Track down to canal or Río Almódovar: Hoopoe, Marsh Harrier, Short-toed Eagle, Corn Bunting, White Stork and Crested Lark. The canal was drier than this time last year but still held at least two Purple Swamp-Hens. Little Egrets (12) in one muddy field. Mallards abundant everywhere plus several broods. In one established pool with emergent vegetation and mud: Green Sandpiper (4), Wood Sandpiper (2), Little Ringed Plover (2), Black-winged Stilt (8), Mallard (f + b/12), Iberian Yellow Wagtail, White Stork (2) and a Common Kestrel. Several Moorhens and Coots in the canal plenty of singing Reed and Great Reed Warblers. Also noted: Turtle Dove (3), Pheasant, White Wagtail, Short-toed Lark, Red-legged Partridge, Zitting Cisticola, Feral Pigeon, Greenfinch, Spotless Starling, Collared Pratincole, Goldfinch and House Sparrow.

PARQUE EÓLCIO (WIND FARM) OFF THE A-2221 at Km-2
Montagu's Harrier (m) and two Marsh Harriers hunting, Red-legged Partridge (pr) and another calling nearby, and a few Calandra Larks displaying. Over 100 Bee-eaters moving inland between Zahara and La Janda.

 Black-winged Stilt · Calandra Lark · Crested Lark

Day 7

Friday 31 March 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Barbate

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Beetle study site. Nightingale singing from scrub in the dunes in bushes less than 1 m high. Sandwich Tern (2) along the shoreline. Also Northern Wheatear, Bee-eater, Sardinian Warbler, Stonechat, Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, House Sparrow, and Barn Swallow.

ZAHARA > BARBATE A-2232 road (used to be named CA-P 2232)
Around Km-2.7 a track leads off to the right to some crappy lagoons and a rubbish tip. Woodchat singing and doing aerial sorties. Barn Swallows collecting mud. Black-winged Stilt (12) close to the track. A few Cattle Egrets around the horses and goats. Looked up and saw 21 Northern Bald Ibises circling over. They eventually landed in a roadside field at Km-3.0 just before the first buildings on the right (while heading in the Barbate direction). Some landed on the roof of an old concrete hut while the rest picked around the cattle in tall yellow Cruciferae vegetation. Managed some distant record shots - more ideal for digiscoping though.

 Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita · Barbate · Costa de La Luz

Day 8

Saturday 1 April 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Marismas de Barbate

MARISMAS DEL BARBATE
Attempted to view the estuary from further upstream on the outskirts of Barbate. While driving into Barbate take the first right onto Avenida Joaquín Blume and follow to the end at the Estadio Municipal de Deportes. Dirt tracks lead around the back through some eucalyptus trees (Nightingale and Serin singing here) allowing good views over the estuary. Caspian Tern (6), Mediterranean Gull (1), Spoonbill (1), Sandwich Tern (7), Grey Plover, Iberian Yellow Wagtail, Black-winged Stilt, Greenshank, Kentish Plover, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Redshank, Little Egret, Bee-eater, Zitting Cisticola, Crested Lark, Yellow-legged Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Spotless Starling, Barn Swallow, Stonechat, Mallard, House Sparrow, Meadow Pipit, and Black-headed Gull all noted. Mallow Skipper (Carcharodus sp) found.

Drove back to the salinas off the main road at the old Km-1.0 stone post (Los Cañinos). Walked the track inland here looking for Spectacled Warbler. Flock of six Night Herons circling. Caspian Tern overhead. Zitting Cisticola, Linnet, Corn Bunting, Iberian Yellow Wagtail and Crested Lark all singing. Painted Ladies common,  Lesser Black-backed Gull (4), and also Kentish Plover, Black-winged Stilt and Redshank.

PLAYA DE ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Black-eared Wheatear (3) and a Woodchat Shrike were probably new arrivals.

RÍO EL CACHON, ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES
Two Common Sandpipers below the bridge.

Stonechat · Caspian Tern · Spotless Starling

Day 9

Sunday 2 April 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > La Janda > Presa de Celemin

ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES > N-340
Stopped of at the Parque Eólico (wind farm park). Subalpine Warbler flitting around in ankle-high scrub at the gate. Cuckoo and Calandra Lark singing. Bee-eater (3) overhead. House Sparrow collecting nest material. Woodchat Shrike carrying food for young. Also Crested Lark, Goldfinch and Corn Bunting.

TRACK TO PRESA DE DRAGADOS, LA JANDA
Took the track off the N-340 at Km-47 southeast of Vejer de la Frontera. Good track for normal cars. Species noted: Southern Grey Shrike (1), Woodchat Shrike (3), Great Reed Warbler and Cetti's Warbler from typha and scrub along the canals, Lesser Kestrel (5), Egyptian Vulture (1), several singing Whitethroats, Marsh Harrier (3), Little Egret, White Stork, Cattle Egret, Collared Pratincoles passing overhead, Jackdaw (10), Red-legged Partridge, Moorhen, Grey Heron, Tree Sparrow, Raven (3), Zitting Cisticola, Calandra Lark, Goldfinch, Swallowtail, Pheasant, Stonechat, Mallard, Nightingale, Bee-eater (flock of 27 was the largest), Crested Lark, and Barn Swallow. At the junction near the main lagoons a couple of Slender-billed Gulls were amongst the Black-headed and Yellow-legged Gulls. Emperor Dragonflies common. Also possible Orthetrum chrysostigma.

TRACK TO PRESA DE CELEMIN, LA JANDA
Whinchat (f), Griffon Vulture (1), Common Kestrel (1), Montagu's Harrier (f), Whitethroat (6 singing mm), Reed Warbler, Greenfinch, Woodchat Shrike (5), Red-legged Partridge (pr), Ocellated Lizard, several Stonechat broods, Serin, c30 House Martins collecting mud from a ditch plus many of the species noted on the previous track.

PRESA DE CELEMIN
Good look-out point for raptors here. Short-toed Eagle (1), Black Kite (1), Lesser Kestrel (7), Booted Eagle (1), Common Buzzard (1) and Griffon Vulture (5) above the surrounding hills. Many Feral Pigeons and Jackdaws (50+) around the presa (dam). Nightingale, Sardinian Warblers and Subalpine Warblers singing. Also Bee-eater (18), Wood Pigeon (2), House Martin, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, House Sparrow, Mallard, and a Common Sandpiper.

EDGE OF BENALUP
Looked for Black-shouldered Kite in the dehesa nearby. White Stork (2), Grey Heron (1) and Linnet (2).

PRESA DE BARBATE/EMBLASE DE BARBATE
Osprey, Great Crested Grebe, Black-eared Wheatear, Woodchat Shrike (5), Turtle Dove, and Yellow-legged Gull noted.

Day 10

Monday 3 April 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Atlanterra

ATLANTERRA
Had a look for Little Swift. Best was a Short-toed Eagle and several Crag Martins. Some students reported seeing a Mongoose here a few days ago.

 Playa de Atlanterra · Looking to Cabo de Trafalgar from Atlanterra · Faro de Camarinal

Day 11

Tuesday 4 April 2006
Zahara de los Atunes > Malaga

ZAHARA > BARBATE A-2232 road
Roadside marsh at Km 5.2. The Northern Bald Ibis flock (19) was feeding with Cattle and Little Egrets in the marsh and surrounding vegetation.

MARISMAS DEL BARBATE
Quick drive for petrol in Barbate before the drive to the airport. Seven Caspian Terns present on the estuary.

ZAHARA > MALAGA
At El Pelayo, west of Algeciras on the N-340, there was a large overhead movement of raptors and storks.

SPECIES LIST - COSTA DE LA LUZ - SPAIN - 25 Mar > 04 Apr 2006

 * reintroduced from captive-bred stock

BUTTERFLY LIST - COSTA DE LA LUZ - SPAIN - 25 Mar > 04 Apr 2006

DRAGONFLY LIST- COSTA DE LA LUZ - SPAIN - 25 Mar > 04 Apr 2006

More photographs from Zahara de los Atunes

Previous Trip Reports:  2019 | 2018 | 2017 | 2016 | 2015 | 2014 | 2013 | 2012 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2003

 All photographs © 2006  F. S. Simpson

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