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Species List | Trip Reports | Home fssbirding.org.uk |
South & East Turkey
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28 June - 13 July 2008 |
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Observers: F. Simpson & L. Ketchen |
INTRODUCTION After birding in north eastern Greece a few years ago we had planned to continue further east into the Western Palaearctic region to add more species to our lists. The Morocco trip gave us a nice taste of desert birds and we liked the culture there so Turkey was chosen as the next destination where we hoped to catch up on many Middle Eastern species. This was a long trip (4000+ kilometre round drive) but spaced over a two week period it never at any time felt stressfull even with the long distances involved. We found around 220 species without too much trouble on a route from the capital Ankara south to the Mediterranean coast, down to the Syrian border, then east all the way to Van near the border with Iran. We then took an inland route back towards Ankara but a puncture meant we were less than keen to head north for Caucasian Black Grouse at Sivrikaya without a spare. Some of the highlights included Caspian Snowcocks at 3200m at five in the morning in the Tarsus Mountains; Grey-headed Swamphens and Graceful Warblers in the Göksu Delta; White-throated Kingfishers in the Tarsus Delta; Birecik – so many great birds along the Euphrates including Pied Kingfisher, Striated Scops Owl, Iraq Babbler, Black Francolin and Dead Sea Sparrow; the stone heads of the tumulus of Antiochus at Nemrut Dagi with Red-tailed Wheatear, White-throated Robin, Finsch's Wheatear, Cinereous Bunting and Trumpeter Finch; driving down into the huge volcanic crater at the other Nemrut Dagi with Armenian Gull, Rose-coloured Starling, Crimson-winged Finch and Red-fronted Serin; Lake Van, more like an inland sea with its own microclimate with lightning storms and a nocturnal downpour flooding our tent (should have taken the good one) but cheered later with White-headed Duck, Paddyfield Warbler, Citrine Wagtail and Greater Flamingos; Mongolian Trumpeter Finch on the lava fields at Serpmetas; Saker, Grey-necked Bunting and Golden Eagle around the spectacular Isak Pasa Palace at Dogubayazit near the Iran border and of course the tremendous landscapes, hospitable people and good food - well, good at the time – maybe shouldn't have cleared those salads every night.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Saker · Caspian Snowcock · Black Francolin · See-see Partridge · Pale Scops Owl · White-breasted Kingfisher · Pied Kingfisher · White-spectacled Bulbul · Radde's Accentor · White-throated Robin · Finsch's Wheatear · Red-tailed Wheatear · Graceful Warbler · Paddyfield Warbler · Upcher's Warbler · Krüpper's Nuthatch · Eastern Rock Nuthatch · Iraq Babbler · Dead Sea Sparrow · Yellow-throated Sparrow · Pale Rock Sparrow · Red-fronted Serin · Mongolian Trumpeter Finch · Desert Finch · Grey-necked Bunting & Cinereous Bunting.
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LOGISTICS
Flights
Ground Transport
Accommodation
Maps
Fuel Petrol was not cheap in Turkey! It was around 3.14 YTL/l which meant an average fill up of 40 litres cost about £55 or 1.38/litre!! I'm not sure off hand but this allowed us to roll for 800-900 kilometres on a tank. Petrol stations are everywhere. To see six in a row is not unusual. One bonus is you may get free tea and a car wash.
Exchange
Rate June 2008
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LITERATURE, REFERENCES & ONLINE RESOURCES
• Green,
I, & Moorhouse, N. 1995. A Birdwatchers' Guide to Turkey. Prion
Ltd.
• Porter,
R.F. et al. 1996. Birds of the Middle East. Helm.
• Svensson, L. et al. 1999. Bird Guide.
HarperCollins.
• We used the following internet published trip reports both at the planning stage and in the field: • Klaus Malling Olsen (2005, 2006, 2007), Kasper P Hendriks (2004), Andreas Kristensen (1999), Juha Niemi (2001), Troels Eske Ortvad (2004) and Mattias Gerdin, Måns Grundsten, Johan Ställberg & Micke • Wilson (2005).
• Further reports can be found at Travellingbirder.com (the Internet portal to birding travel and birdwatching trip • reports)
• Other useful websites: • Western Palaearctic Yahoo Group: WestPalBirds@yahoogroups.com
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ITINERARY
Day 00 27/06/08 Evening flight from London Heathrow Day 01 28/06/08 Ankara
Esenboga > Kulu Gölü > Konya > Eregli Day
07 04/07/08 Birecik
> Birecik Ibis Wadi > Birecik Cliffs > River Euphrates
> Gulhane Tea Gardens Day
08 05/07/08 Birecik
Gravel Pits & Orchards > Desni > Adiyaman > Kâhta >
Arsameia, Nemrut Dagi Milli Parki Day
09 06/07/08 Nemrut
Dagi Milli Parki > Narince > Ataturk Baraji > Siverek >
Diyarbakir > Tatvan, Van Gölü Day
10 07/07/08 Nemrut
Dagi volcanic crater, Tatvan >Akdamar Campsite, Van Gölü Day 11 08/07/08 Akdamar Campsite > Van > Van Marshes > Van Hills > Van Day
12 09/07/08 Van
> Karahan > Deltasi, Van Gölü > Serometas > Caldiran
> Dogubayazit > Ishak Pasa Sarayi Day
13 10/07/08 Dogubayazit
> Ishak Pasa Sarayi > Agri > Erzurum > Sarican >
Erzincan Day
14 11/07/08 Erzincan
> Tödürge Gölü > Sivas > Sorgun > Ankara Day
15 12/07/08 Ankara
> Soguksu Milli Parki, Kizilcahamam > Ankara Day
16 13/07/08 Return
flight from Ankara Esenboga to London Heathrow
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THE DIARY Day
1
HIGHLIGHTS ESENBOGA
AIRPORT, ANKARA, TURKEY ON
THE ROAD KOLU KOLU
GÖLÜ
DRIVE
TO KONYA DRIVE
TO KARAMAN DRIVE
FROM KARAMAN TO EREGLI EREGLI
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Day
2 HIGHLIGHTS EREGLI
> KARAMAN road ADABAG
TATLIKUYU EREGLI
MARSHES DRIVE
TO KARAMAN KARAMAN KARAMAN
> MUT MUT
> SILIFKE SILIFKE
> DERMICILI > UZUNCABURUÇ DERMICILI UZUNCABURÇ
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Day
3
HIGHLIGHTS CAMPSITE,
SOUTH OF UZUNCABURÇ SITE
1.5Km N of NECROPOLIS, UZUNCABURÇ
NECROPOLIS,
UZUNCABURÇ TIYATRO,
UZUNCABURÇ SITE
400m S of UZUNCABURÇ junction: ROAD 33-57 Stop
several km lower down Stop
at graveyard on north side of DEMIRICILI Graveyard
on south side of DEMIRICILI DRIVE
EAST ALONG THE MEDITERRANEAN Stop
c5Km south of Camardi OZSAFAK
PENSION, DEMIRKAZIK 1193
Km 1194 km |
Day
4
HIGHLIGHTS
SNOWCOCK
SITE, CHROMIUM MINE, ALADAGLAR MOUNTAINS On the walk and drive back down we noted Northern Wheatear (20+), Horned Lark (3), Finsch's Wheatear (1), Alpine Accentor (10+), Water Pipit (1), Ortolan Bunting (singing m), Chukar Partridge (6), Black Redstart (10+) and Linnet (2). ALCADAG
GORGE/NOMAD CAMP Above
ALCADAG GORGE Orchards/Poplars
near OZ SAFAK Drive
from DEMIRKAZIK > ADAN > TASUCU GOKSU
DELTA: rice fields 1528 Km TASUCU 1528 km |
Day
5
HIGHLIGHTS
SEAWATCH
FROM LADES MOTEL
GOKSU
DELTA: Akgol Gölü
GOKSU
DELTA: small green hide on S side of Akgol Gölü
On the track to the next tower (with lagoon and marshes on the left and the coast to the right) in one field of view in the binoculars I had Great Egret (1), Squacco Heron (1), Purple Heron (1), Spoonbill (1) and Little Egret (2)! Also noted: Redshank (2), Mallard (f + b/2), Black-headed Wagtail, Spur-winged Plover, Crested Lark and Marsh Harrier.
GOKSU
DELTA: southern tower
Drive
from TASUCU > ADANA
HAVUTLU
(on Adana-Karatas road-815)
1998 km |
Day
6
HIGHLIGHTS ISIKLI
- c2km south of the village ISIKLI
- hills to the east of the village YESILCE
- along the main D400 road
DURNALIK
- valley and hills to the south of the village
DRIVE
TO BIRECIK - via Gaziantep and Nizip on the D400/E90
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Day
7
HIGHLIGHTS
BIRECIK
IBIS WADI
- wadi running southeast behind the Bald Ibis breeding centre
on the east bank of the Euphrates
BIRECIK
IBIS CENTRE
BIRECIK
CLIFFS
- roadside cliffs on the eastside of the Euphrates, south of
the Ibis Centre
BIRECIK
SOUTH ORCHARDS
- orchards on the east side of the Euphrates, south of the tea
gardens
EUPHRATES
& BIRECIK SOUTH GRAVEL PITS
- gravels pits and vegetated pools a few kilometres south of
the town
KIYI
RESTAURANT, BIRECIK
GULHANE
TEA GARDENS, BIRECIK
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Day
8
HIGHLIGHTS
EUPHRATES
& BIRECIK SOUTH GRAVEL PITS
- gravels pits and vegetated pools a few kilometres south of
the town Approximately 500 metres to the south, a shore on the river allows some good views across to the cliffs in the other side: Bald Ibis (47) feeding, Pygmy Cormorant (2) and a Marsh Harrier hunting.
BIRECIK-HALFETI
road: 2nd road off to the right (signposted Innapli Köyü)
BIRECIK-HALFETI
road: 1st road off to the right (signposted Altinova Köyü)
BESNI-ADIYAMAN
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI (NATIONAL PARK)
A stop at a puddle beside a small stream [37º 56' 28.8'' N 038º 42' 23.1'' E] 1402m revealed some thirsty birds! A fantastic pair of White-throated Robins, Eastern Rock Nuthatch (2), Cretzschmar's Bunting (f), Red-tailed Wheatear (1), Rock Sparrow (7), Goldfinch (8), Black-headed Bunting (2), Turtle Dove, Pale Rock Sparrow (1), House Sparrow and even a Spur-thighed Tortoise were observed coming to drink within a short period. A Great Tit then flew and landed on the tortoise's back... well if all other stones are occupied...
On the drive down to the Arsameia ruins and campsite, two different groups of tephronotus Long-tailed Tits were observed, followed by two Lesser Whitethroats and more Western Rock Nuthatches.
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: ARSAMEIA
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Day
9
HIGHLIGHTS
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: ARSAMEIA
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: Drive up to the peak
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: puddle/stream 7km E of Arsameia campsite
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: Tumulus of Antiochus
NEMRUT
DAGI MILLI PARKI: gorge c2.5km from the summit on the road to
Narince
Drive
from NARINCE > TATVAN via Siverek, Diyarbakir, Silvan
& Bitlis
ATATURK
BARAJI
DRIVE
E to VAN GÖLÜ
Stayed at Hotel Dilek (70 TYL) in Tatvan and had dinner at Kasi Beyaz Ocakbasi (17.5 YTL for kebabs, salad and coke for two).
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Day
10
HIGHLIGHTS
HOTEL
DILEK, TATVAN
NEMRUT
DAGI: drive up the volcanic crater
NEMRUT
DAGI: Lip of the crater
NEMRUT
DAGI: gully with poplars/birches
NEMRUT
DAGI: shallow lake with mud in barren area
NEMRUT
DAGI: long hollow Long hollow between the track leading to
the visible area of the lake and the rocky/scrubby plateau. NEMRUT
DAGI: walk to crags at southern edge
TATVAN-VAN
road
AKDAMAR
CAMPSITE
3136 km |
Day
11
HIGHLIGHTS
Drive
to VAN on road D-300
VAN
CASTLE
Marshes
south of VAN
VAN
HILLS
VAN
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Day 12
HIGHLIGHTS
Drive
from VAN > KARAHAN E-99/D-975
KARAHAN:
southern marsh/inlet of BENDIMAHI DELTASI
RIVER BENDIMAHI,
KARAHAN
RIVER BENDIMAHI: marshes
at Karahan
village
SERPMETAS
lava fields
CALDIRA
30
kilometres from DOGUBETAZIT
ISHAK
PASA SARAYI, DOGUBEYAZIT
Later we went inside the palace (2 YTL) and found a pair of Crag Martins attending their mud nest with four birds overhead at times. Several Black Redstarts were present around the site. Kestrel on one of the minarets. Alpine and Common Swifts overhead. Rock Sparrows around the 'courtyard' area. Also: Western Rock Nuthatch, House Sparrow and Feral Pigeon noted.
We stayed at a hotel (50 YTL) in Dogubeyazit, whose name escapes me but I'm sure the Adams family used to own it. Dinner nearby consisted of kebaps, salad, bread and drinks (19 YTL for two).
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Day 13
HIGHLIGHTS
ISHAK
PASA SARAYI, DOGUBEYAZIT
DOGUBEYAZIT
> AGRI We stopped, yet again, to fill up with petrol on the outskirts of Agri, and enquired about a possible car wash as we had forgotten what colour it was, or if indeed it was volcanic ash grey. While someone tackled it with a power hose we observed Hoopoe and Roller in an adjacent field. Then we learnt that the car wash was free - he wouldn't even accept a tip!
AGRI
> ERZURUM
GORGE
near SARICAN, 47km W of HORASAN
ERZURUM
> ERZICAN
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Day 14
HIGHLIGHTS
ERZURUM
> SIVAS
SIVAS
> SORGUN
TÖDÜRGE
GÖLÜ near HAFIK, E of SIVAS
SORGUN
> ANKARA
Stayed at the Hotel Gran Sila, 10 km north of Ankara (70 YTL inc breakfast. Tried to get as far as Kizilcahaman but a horrendous road accident at Kazan had blocked the road and it was getting quite dark). The dreaded turkish tummy hit tonight!... and we thought we had been lucky.
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Day
15
HIGHLIGHTS
HOTEL GRAN SILA
SOGUKSO
MILLI PARK (NATIONAL PARK) Good selection of woodland species including new additions to the trip list: Krüper's Nuthatch (4), Jay (6), Bonelli's Warbler (2 singing mm), Eurasian Treecreeper, Eurasian Nuthatch, Robin (juv and another singing), samamisicus Redstart (pr + juv), Coal Tit (4 singing), Grey-headed Woodpecker calling, Wren singing, Song Thrush (3), Serins singing, Great Spotted Woodpecker calling, Blue Tit, Raven calling, Great Tit (broods), Greenfinch (2), Long-tailed Tit (flock of 15), Black Kite (1), Chaffinch singing, White Wagtail, Wood Pigeon singing, House Sparrow, Collared Dove (2), and several Red Squirrels.
Walked up a wide unpaved track after the restaurant but didn't get too far since I was still feeling weak after the food poisoning. Lots of activity along this stretch of forest: Bonelli's Warbler at the stream, Redstart (2 males), White Wagtail, Crossbill (2) overhead later located feeding in pines, Serin (5), Jay (8, one with stolen egg), Coal Tit (12), Krüper's Nuthatch (10), Raven (4 o/h), Chaffinches singing and females feeding juvs, Goldcrest singing, Bonelli's Warbler (3 singing mm), Short-toed Treecreeper singing, Great Spotted Woodpecker (1), Long-tailed Tit (2), Eurasian Nuthatch (3), Greenfinch (m) and a Red Fox.
KIZILCAHAMAN:
river on the SW side of the town
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Day 16
Drive
to ESENBOGA AIRPORT, ANKARA
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SPECIES LIST - SOUTH & EAST TURKEY 28 June - 13 July 2008
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All photographs © 2008 F. S. Simpson Fraser's Birding Website · fssbirding.org.uk |