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THE
DIARY
Day
1
Saturday 21 June 2003
London Heathrow > Helsinki Vantaa > Saaijärvi > Pyhä Häkki National Park
Partly cloudy in southern Finland, maximum temperature 18°C
Drove north a few hundred kilometres from the airport to a nice area of ancient spruce woodland and pine bog. No camping on the reserve.
Slept in the car. First encounter with the Scandinavian mosquito - nasty! Head was covered in lumps! Watched a fantastic adult Great Grey
Owl with two chicks at close range.
Highlights: Common Rosefinch, Red-necked Grebe, Wood Sandpipers (displaying), Thrush Nightingale, Great Grey Owl (adult + 2 chicks), Black
Tern.
HELSINKI VANTAA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Two hours ahead of UK Time Zone.
1535h. Tern sp. flying over an industrial area of Helsinki, viewed from the plane a few minutes before landing.
1620h. A White Wagtail at the rental car park.
HELSINKI > PYHÄ HÄKKI NATIONAL PARK
1630h. Drove north on road E75 (4) via Lahti, Jyvaskyla and Saaijärvi noting the following species. Helsinki > Lahti: Hooded Crow, Jackdaw,
Pheasant, Black-headed Gull, Goldfinch and House Sparrow. Lahti > Saaijärvi (with brief stops by the roadside): Jay (4), Great Spotted
Woodpecker (1), Thrush Nightingale (1), Stock Dove, Redwing, Little Gull, Herring Gull, Magpie (common), Hooded Crow (very common), Blue
Tit, Mistle Thrush, Black Tern (1), Great Crested Grebe and Starling.
2110h. Stopped at a small, muddy, roadside pool near Kekkilä on road 6510, northeast of Saaijärvi. Single Greenshank and a single Wood
Sandpiper present along with two White Wagtails. Yellowhammer and Chaffinch singing in the surrounding area. The distinctive song of the
Common Rosefinch heard. Fieldfares fairly common in small arable field strips alongside Lapwing and Curlew. First mosquito bite of the trip -
female's abdomen full of my blood.
2140h. Stopped at Olet Tässä at the northern end of a lake know as Pyhäjärvi. Flying insects abundant here with Swallows, White Wagtails,
Pied and Spotted Flycatchers taking advantage of the aerial plankton. Heard a soft growling "Rrrrr…" from a Goldeneye. A splendid
Red-necked Grebe in full breeding plumage, crossing the flat, calm water towards the cover of dense emergent vegetation. A pair of Wood
Sandpipers calling loudly as they arrived over mixed birch and spruce woodland. A female Goldeneye with a single small chick and another
adult female circling this end of the lake. Black-headed Gull (2). Several Fieldfares in the area with two feeding in a small arable plot and more
by the roadside. Willow Warblers and Chaffinches singing.
 PYHÄ HÄKKI NATIONAL PARK
2215h. Arrived late at the information centre of the national park. An area of 12 km2 of ancient taiga forest is specially protected and
contains trees up to 500 years old. Walked part of the Mastomäki trail. Tree Pipit and Robin singing in fairly open Scots Pine woodland.
Woodlark singing from an area of scattered stunted pines on the edge of the bog. Willow Tits heard calling. On leaving the wood and entering
the bog I was surprised to see a huge bird take off from the ground - I immediately registered this was much bigger and heavier-looking than
a Buteo. On raising my bins I watched a fantastic Great Grey Owl flying towards me carrying a measly vole then turn and land on a nearby
tree containing two well grown chicks. The adult was close enough to observe the bright yellow eyes set in the huge head. It was extremely
impressive in flight - long, broad, slow-beating wings, almost heron-like. Chicks very vocal at feeding time. Small groups of Siskins overhead.
The atmosphere was so still and silent that a passing car sounded like a jet-fighter and could be heard from a long way off. The acoustics of
the environment at this time changed the sounds of familiar birds. A calling Cuckoo sounded very deep as it echoed across the bog and a
distant Whooper Swan sounded particularly eerie. Still enough daylight to watch birds when I finished writing my notes up at 0015h. Slept in
the car.
Day
2
Sunday 22 June 2003
Pyhä Häkki N.P. >Liminganlahti, Virkkula, Liminka, Oulu
Cloudy, light rain 0905-1330h then clearing, maximum temperature 18°C
Spent some of the morning in the park before heading to the half way point in Finland to the Liminganlahti WWT reserve south of Oulu on
the Gulf of Bothnia. Stopped to sleep from 1030h to 1300h. This is a huge coastal wetland reserve. Tall observation towers (Lintutorni in
Finnish) replace hides in Finland and several are placed strategically around the area. This is the western most outpost of the, mainly
Siberian ranging, Yellow-breasted Bunting. This was to be the first of several long days (or nights) in the field. Birded from 0615h to 2330h
taking time to eat, pitch the tent and have a strong Finnish coffee and pastry of course.
Highlights: Great Grey Owl (adult + 2 chicks), Black Woodpecker, Parrot Crossbill, Rustic Bunting, Willow Tit (borealis race), Crested Tit,
Common Crane (82), White-tailed (Sea) Eagle (2), Yellow-breasted Bunting.
 PYHÄ HÄKKI NATIONAL PARK
0615h. Got up to see one of the adult Great Grey Owls flying through the car park of the reserve, over the road and into Scots Pine
woodland. It perched a short distance inside the wood, mid-way up a tall tree in full view. It appeared quite fearless and allowed approach to
within 20 metres! At that moment a loud raucous call was heard back near the road - Black Woodpecker. Good views of it flying around the
car park and climbing the trunks. Looked even bigger than a Carrion/Hooded Crow though with long, narrower wings. Walked along the
wooden board walks of the Mastomäki trail towards Kotajärvi (järvi = lake). The two Great Grey Owl chicks were still in the same tree as the
previous night. Two Rustic Buntings were heard singing somewhere out on the bog but could not be located. A Goshawk flew overhead.
Parrot Crossbills (4) observed in the canopy. Chaffinch, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Jay, Treecreeper, Great Tit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, and
Robin noted. A pair of northern race Willow Tits (Parus montanus borealis) feeding two fledged juveniles in a small, dense birch mire. At least
three Black Woodpeckers heard drumming (one very distant) - a long, three second roll sounding deep, loud and menacing through the forest.
Tree Pipit carrying food. Wren singing from the ground in a shady spruce (Picea abies) wood. A pair of Whooper Swans and a female
Goldeneye on Kotajärvi. A Pied Flycatcher was observed at the wooden buildings at the cooking place on the hiking trail passing the lake.
Another three birds heard in song. Common Crossbills heard passing overhead. Crested Tits fairly common. Barn Swallow (2) over the bog. An
alarm-calling Wood Sandpiper was observed flying along the edge of the woodland/bog through the tree tops before dropping down and
landing on a small stunted pine just metres away. Like the owl, it was not too bothered by me.
0920h. Left the park and drove north on the E75 towards Oulu.
1030h. Stopped to sleep until 1300h during heavy rain.
1300h. Continued on the E75 noting a Swallow flying into one of the small roadside bus shelters, two Swifts over a small town and
Black-headed Gulls feeding in small field strips of cut silage grass. Fieldfare and Redwing numerous. Bullfinch (m), Common Gull, Pheasant,
Blackbird, Lapwing, Whooper Swan (pr), Curlew, Wood Sandpiper and Wood Pigeon noted from the car.
1530h. Stopped for lunch at one of the many roadside picnic lay-bys after visiting a supermarket. Bought some much needed mosquito
repellent - The "Off!" brand is recommended. Setup the GPS to the Finnish System: 71°52'88N 04°38'61E. Two Hooded Crows at the rubbish
bin. Several Willow Warblers singing. Bright sunshine now. Chaffinches singing. White Wagtail, Mistle Thrushand Jackdaw noted.
VIRKKALA WWF CENTRE, LIMINKA, OULU (Road 813 off the E75/4)
1700h. Arrived at reserve at Liminganlahti (lahti = bay) on the Gulf of Bothnia south of the city of Oulu. This is a 100 km2 coastal wetland at
which the Lumijoki and Temmesjoki rivers (joki = river) reach the sea and is an internationally important site for migratory birds. The area is
surrounded by pasture, meadows, forests and small towns.
GPS: 71°92'96N 04°20'02E (Finnish System), 65°50N 22°00E (International Syst.).
The centre had just closed for the day but the reserve is open all hours. Walked along the boardwalks to the birdwatching tower hide
(lintoturni). Boardwalk from the centre to the main observation tower: three Common Cranes picked out arriving in the distance. Yellowhammer singing on
the edge of a small birch wood. Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings common. No sign of any Yellow-breasted Buntings.
 From the tower: Waders everywhere - although most hidden (breeding) in the vegetation surrounding this corner of the bay. The constant
alarm and contact calls revealed their presence. A flock of 14 Black-tailed Godwit and a flock of 13 Greenshank passed by. Ruff passing -
mainly males in breeding plumage. Group of four lekking male Ruff on an area of raised earth. Marsh Harrier (m) and Whooper Swans (4)
passed by. Barn Swallow, Curlew, Common Tern, Mallard, Coot, Redshank, Lapwing and White Wagtail noted. Another five Greenshank
overhead. Two feeding clusters of eight and 74 Common Cranes. Arctic Terns common. Minimum of 190 Whooper Swans scattered all over
the bay in small non-breeding groups. Flock of six Bar-tailed Godwits low over the marsh. Hooded Crows fairly common. When one passed
with a nearby Marsh Harrier, many waders of several species flew out from the concealment of the marsh to mob the predators. Repetitive
chirps of Reed Buntings all around. Many scattered singles and pairs of Tufted Ducks plus a group of 300+. Pintail (pr). Snipe 'yickering'.
Pintail (f + b/2). Spotted Redshank (2). Little Gulls common. Shoveler (2ff, f + b/8). Garganey (f + b/7). First sighting - White-tailed (Sea)
Eagle - very impressive in this flat landscape. First spotted on the ground before flying off with a duckling and landing shortly after being
forced down by two Hoodies. An immature bird but not specifically aged. Group of (4 ad + 4 juv) Greylag Geese. An adult White-tailed Eagle
later appeared, hounding off the immature eagle before settling on a stump. Later, the adult eagle took off in the direction of the observation
tower. As it approached, it dropped down low just above the water surface and easily lifted out a large fish with a single foot. No splash or
partial submergence like Ospreys. Red-breasted Merganser (3 prs visible). A second Marsh Harrier appeared. Flock of five Goldeneye. Another
group of 23 Greenshank flew by.
1935h. Trail back along the boardwalk to the reserve centre: Fieldfare hopping over the boardwalk. Still no Yellow-breasted Buntings. Willow
Warblers singing. Magpie and Kestrel calling. Walked along the access road from the centre to the main road. The farmland here is composed
of long thin strips (c20 metres wide) of crops or silage separated by drainage ditches where reed, horsetails and other lush vegetation grows.
Pair of Whinchats here with the male singing from a small 2010h patch of phragmites reeds. Common Rosefinch (f) on the road with a male
singing nearby. Yellowhammers singing. Curlew and Lapwings calling. Meadow Pipit displaying. Sparrowhawk passed over a small copse.
Managed to find a female Yellow-breasted Bunting in vegetation at a field bordering a copse. Clean, neat plumage compared with female
Yellowhammer. Pale supercilium and throat, dark eye stripe behind eye only, dark outline around ear coverts, pale, mainly unstreaked yellow
breast with streaks at sides and on flanks, pinkish bill, pale coloured legs.
2032h. Pair of Pied Flycatchers in the car park. Skylark singing overhead.
2050h. Checked in to the campsite at Värminkoski. Price: 27 euros for three nights. A single Sand Martin over the small pool here. Common
Sandpiper calling from the stream. Common Rosefinch and Yellowhammer singing.
2330h. Broad daylight! Woodcock 'roding' over birch and spruce woodland surrounding campsite.
Day
3
Monday 23 June 2003
Liminganlahti, Virkkula, Liminka, Oulu
Blue sky, v. light wind, temperature 20°C
VÄRMINKOSKI CAMPSITE
0715h. Willow Tit, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler and Garden Warbler heard singing. Fieldfare feeding on the camping lawn among the
tents and motor- homes. Great Spotted Woodpecker calling. White Wagtail, Swallow and Common Sandpiper at the pool. Dunnock singing.
LIMINKA WWF
0755h. Walk to the small hide: Thrush Nightingale singing in the birch wood. Chaffinch, Great Tit, Willow Warbler, Yellowhammer, Starling,
Swallow, Curlew and White Wagtail noted. Observations from the small hide: Similar species as observed yesterday from the nearby tower.
Redshank, Sand Martin (4), Common Crane (4 o/h), Ruff, Black-tailed Godwit, Greenshank, Spotted Redshank, Lapwing, Snipe, Swallow,
Curlew, Red-breasted Merganser, Goldeneye, Mallard, Wigeon (8mm + f), Garganey (m + f + b/8), Pintail (2prs) just in front of the hide, Reed
Bunting, Shoveler, Sedge Warbler, Marsh Harrier (2 prs in the immediate area), Little Gull, Arctic Tern, Hooded Crow, Black-headed Gull,
White-tailed Eagle (o/h), Teal (flk 70), Whooper Swan, Cuckoo, White Wagtail (inc a juvenile perched on the handrail outside the hide door),
Greylag Goose, single Swallow nest inside the hide, Common Gull, Fieldfare, Magpie. Back at the reserve centre: In the early stage cereal
field opposite the car park: Curlew (pr + juv), five pairs of Ruff together in a loose group, Fieldfare flying over, Yellowhammer and Skylark
singing, Magpie (3). When the Ruff and reeves were alarmed they tucked their heads in and crept through the short grass.
VARJAKKA
1130h. Drove out to the headland at Varjakka, further west along the bay. Small harbour. Common/Arctic Terns breeding on the small islets
just offshore, one of which had a single wind turbine situated. Wheatear (f), House Martins common, Black-headed Gull, Lesser Black-backed
Gull ('Baltic Gull') (4), Herring Gulls common, Red-breasted Merganser (4), Tufted Duck (pr), Barn Swallow, Greenfinch (o/h), Goldeneye
passing, Common Gull, Cormorant (o/h).
LUMIJOKI
1240h. Stopped at an old windmill: Yellowhammers singing, Whitethroat singing from a large hedgerow, Magpie, House Sparrow, White
Wagtail, Greenfinch, Swallow.
 SANANLAHTI
1310h. Tower surveying a vast area - birds distant. At least 60 immature/non-breeding Common Cranes roosting together in one flock. Little
Gulls and Black-headed Gulls common, Whooper Swan (50+), Marsh harrier (m), Greenshank passing, Arctic Tern, Whinchat, Reed Bunting,
Sedge Warbler, Wigeon, Red-breasted Merganser, Mallard, Common Gull, Common Tern, Four-spotted Chasers abundant. Birch woodland along
the trail from the tower to the car park: Several Wood Whites fluttering over the ground in more open, sunlit areas. Three Bramblings singing
in the area - the slow, nasal 'buzz' audible at a fair distance. Males in fantastic breeding plumage. Chaffinches singing in the same woodland.
Singing Willow Warblers common. Camberwell Beauty observed at close range (first sighting), basking on the open, grassy area at the cabin
at the car park. Also a Large Skipper here. Blackcap singing. Common Redpoll (flammea) (3) in the tree tops. Great Tits with young. A Painted
Lady flew in, circling the open area before flying on. Pied Flycatcher singing from a mixed Birch/Scots Pine strip on the other side of the road.
Common Crane (3) overhead. Hooded Crow and Black-headed Gulls calling. Spotted Flycatcher (pr). Robin. Lizard sp. More Bramblings noted
singing from an area comprising approximately 95% Scots Pine and 5% Birch trees. A pair of Bullfinches landed on the bench next to the
fireplace just as I was leaving at 1605h. Great Spotted Woodpecker calling. More Redpolls overhead. Curlew calling. Drive back to Liminka
visitor centre: Mistle Thrush, Yellowhammer, Wood Pigeon, Skylark (pr), several pairs of Curlew, House Sparrow, Swallow and Magpie.
LIMINKA WWF
1625h. Stopped for a coffee and a look at the visitor centre which was now open. Curlew visible in the field outside. A male Pied Flycatcher
showing well in the car park - coming down to take insects on the ground. Willow Warblers singing. One visitor's car had a dead House
Sparrow wedged in the radiator grill.
Drive from Liminka to Selkämma: Swift (3), Rooks common, Starling (flk 20), House Sparrow, Fieldfare, Magpie, Hodded Crow, Tree Pipit,
Yellowhammer, Lapwing, Curlew and White Wagtail noted.
SELKÄMMA
1750h. Parked at the 'Morkkilaisten Jalehuoltopiste' sign at a rough gravel car parking area. Two male Marsh Harriers flew overhead. Whooper
Swans 'honking' in the distance. Yellowhammers and Willow Warbler singing. Walked along the boardwalk passing the slow moving stream
leading down to the edge of the bay. Tree Pipit song-flighting from the edge of a birch stand. Wood Warblers (3) calling from the canopy of
mixed Larch/Scots Pine woodland. Blackcap (3 singing mm heard). Magpie, Great Tit and Chaffinch noted. A male Pied Flycatcher calling from
the sub-canopy along with another Wood Warbler at the area with the huts and fireplace. A new-looking nestbox around 1.5 metres of the
ground was empty apart from the nest of polistes wasps. Found the flycatchers nest in another, older box situated three metres above the
ground. Two Bramblings singing. Nice views of a pair of Bramblings at the huts, calling repeatedly - a nasal wheeze and a high pitched tseet.
Siskins overhead. Two Northern Chequered Skippers (Carterocephalus silvicolus) buzzing around a carpet of strawberry sp. in flower in a sunlit
clearing. Several 'blue' damselflies here. A single Large White. Another Blackcap singing and two Wood Warblers calling on the edge of the
wood near 1835h the border with the reed-fringed bay. Arrived at the observation tower to the sight of (8) Whooper Swans passing in bright
summer sunshine. Again, a panoramic view over this area but most birds distant. Perfect blue sky save for a few white wisps - and warm. A
further group of 16 vocal Whoopers passed by at 1850h. Wood Pigeon 'singing'. Marsh Harrier (f) over the tower, turned away at the
last second on seeing me. Another female was quartering an extensive area of reedbed at the same moment. Counted 76 Whooper Swans in
the immediate area, distributed in pairs, singles and small groups across the marsh. Many birds calling as they prepared to fly off. Whinchat
calling. Scores of Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings singing. Little Gulls 'bobbing' around the edge of the reedbed picking invertebrates from
the water surface and off of plants. Tree Pipit heard singing somewhere behind in the birch wood. Mallard (f + b/6). Shoveler (f) in flight -
disappeared down into the vegetation. Arctic/Common Terns abundant.
1905h. Curlew displaying. Snipe 'drumming'. Sand Martin (N). A single female Red-breasted Merganser with a group of 27 Wigeon.
 1915h. Shoveler (m) and a single Whooper Swan passed by. Sedge Warbler song-flighting approximately 40 metres above ground level.
Many chaser dragonflies active. Snipe 'yickering'. Yellowhammer (2) on the edge of the birch wood. Herring Gulls passing. Black-headed Gulls
feeding further out over the water. Greenshank passed at 1920h. Redpoll (o/h). Group of 11 Goldeneye found. A female Marsh Harrier
hunting between 1924h and 1931h disturbed a Greenshank and several Teal. Curlew and Lapwing in a dry field with grazing cattle to the
north. Short-eared Owl briefly observed hunting over an area of scrubby birches at the back of the reedbeds, south of the tower. Later hunting over the reedbed almost to the water's edge.
1936h. Flock of 42 Wigeon flew over the hunting owl. Scanning the reedbed with the 'scope revealed several Reed Buntings perched
conspicuously on the reed seed heads. Lapwing over the tower at
1940h. Snipe calling - sounding like an old squeaky bicycle pump. Whooper
vocal activity increasing as an assemblage of 26 formed, ready for take-off. By 1946h the Short-eared Owl had approached to within 60
metres of the tower. Three Whooper Swans then left, circled, and banked right in front of the tower. A herd of 31 swans departed at 1946h
and flew north or inland followed by three stragglers. In the bay, another flock of 22 drifted together on the water from various sources.
1955h. A White Wagtail attempted to settle on the top of the tower. Yellowhammer singing. Barn Swallow (2). Black-tailed Godwit (1)
showing before settling back in a field. Redshank dashed by at 2001h. Observed a male Marsh Harrier hunting over an area of fen to the north
of the tower from 2002h. It began to concentrate its efforts around a juncus rush-fringed pool, attempted to take a duckling, and was
chased off by a White-tailed Eagle which appeared after four minutes. The eagle circled for a time but was repeatedly mobbed by a duck
(probably a female Mallard) before it alighted three quarters of the way up a large, mature birch tree.
2012h. The eagle drifted back down in to the marsh, disturbing Little Gulls, Teal and waders and attracting the interest of a Hooded Crow.
With the eagle on the ground my view was obscured but it appeared to be plucking or tearing an item of prey. Two Whooper Swans headed
off at 2016h, later followed by a group of 10. Wigeons kleptoparasitising (or at least getting the left-overs from) the swans feeding in
deeper water. Greenshank and (2) Red-breasted Mergansers passed at 2022h. A light aircraft was flying circuits overhead, disturbing the
otherwise tranquil ambience. Female Marsh Harrier hunting 2024h. Flock of 44 Whooper Swans flew off inland at 2029h.
2034h. Walked back to the car for dinner. Garden Warbler observed singing. A Temminck's Stint disturbed from a muddy pool beside the
channel - it flew off into the birch wood without calling. Several lacewings dotted over the car. Short-eared Owl, Marsh Harrier (m) and a
Redpoll over the car park. Fieldfare singing.
2150h. Back at the tower: sun now behind some thick cloud which had drifted in. Visibility now improved after the heat haze vanished. Little
Gull (9) and Black-headed Gull (5) hawking over a pool north of the tower. Flock of (22) Wigeon passed. Fieldfares singing. Common Gull
passed by. Curlew displaying. Snipe 'drumming' to the left of the tower. Tufted Duck (pr) passed. Flock of (70) Wigeon flew south at 2202h.
Female Marsh Harrier observed flying inland and carrying prey over the birch woodland. An immature male hunting over the reedbed at this
time. Brown Hare in the vegetation below the tower at 2210h. Mallard (f + b/9).Wood Pigeon singing.
2214h. An Elk (Moose) wandered out of the birch woodland to the left, through the reedbeds and then began splashing through the shallow
waters of the edge of the bay - a large and impressive mammal. Tufted Duck (4) passed at 2230h. Little Gulls (20) and Black-headed Gulls (9)
over the pools to the north at 2237h. A male Ruff and a Tufted Duck hurried by at 2245h. Pintail (f + b/2) in the pool on the edge of the bay,
directly in front of the hide. Tufted Duck (pr) overhead. Greylag Goose (pr + b/3) - young about half adult size. Spotted Redshank overhead
at 2308h. Activity decreasing after 2300h. Left at 2345h.
Day
4
Tuesday 24 June 2003
Liminka & Kempele area, Oulu
Blue sky, very light wind, temperature 22°C
Explored various areas of the bay. Great sites for breeding waders and duck in the largest tracts of phragmites reedbed I've been to. This
was the 'owling' night with Finnature which cost 100 euros (reduced from 150 euros due to the early breeding of the owls this year) for
eight hours guiding from eleven at night. Although getting a bit late in the season with most young fledged (missed Ural Owl) it was well
worth it. The guide was very knowledgeable and gave me lots of info on Hawk Owl sites in the north. We approached to within 6 metres of a
Great Grey Owl chick, watched another pair feeding young at the nest, went to a nestbox of Tengmalms Owls and were standing amongst
seven Pygmy Owls (two adults and five young). I knew these birds were small but it was hard to comprehend an owl smaller than a Starling!
We covered over 200 kilometres.
Highlights for Monday & Tuesday: Baltic Gull, Smew (flock of 22), Temminck's Stint, Marsh Harrier, Spotted Redshank, Black-tailed Godwit,
Bar-tailed Godwit, Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Redshank, Ringed Plover, Ruff (lekking), Garganey, Teal, Shoveler,
Goosander, Red-breasted Merganser, Teal, Wigeon, Shoveler, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Goldeneye, Wood Warbler, Short-eared Owl, White-tailed
Eagle, Common Crane.
SELKÄMMA
0000h. Drove further along this road to some nice Scots Pine woodland. Only Robins heard singing, however. Another Short-eared Owl about
1 km along this road at 0010h. Woodcock displaying over birch at 0015h. Hooded Crow, Fieldfare, Wood Pigeon, Common Gull, Curlew, Magpie
and Black-headed Gull noted. Swifts over the town of Liminka at 0030h. Curlew displaying at 0035h.
 LIMINKA WWF
0045h. Daylight! Temperature down to 11°C. Common Snipe at the edge of the field opposite the entrance to the reserve centre. Able to
approach very close to it in the car. Numerous Sedge Warblers singing continuously. White-tailed Eagle (2) perched on posts. Flock of (54)
Common Cranes flew over the reserve. Also noted to be active at the this time of night: Whooper Swan, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Pintail,
Wigeon, Teal, Goldeneye, Red-breasted Merganser, Shoveler, Curlew, Redshank, Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Lapwing, Reed Bunting, Barn
Swallow, Little Gull, Common Gull, Black-headed Gull, Great Crested Grebe (8). Snipe 'drumming' and then a Sedge Warbler mimicking a Snipe's
'bleating' call.
0200h. Left the reserve and returned to the campsite.
VÄRMINKOSKI CAMPSITE
1200h. Woke up to hear a Chiffchaff singing - it sounded faster than British birds and included a regular third note sounding like 'tsuee' -
higher pitched than the regular two notes. Also calling or singing: Chaffinch, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler, Brambling, Redwing, Tree
Pipit, Great Tit, Dunnock and Robin. White Wagtail by the pool. A female Goldeneye down on the sandy shore of the pool.
KEMPELE
1445h. Wide view over the bay know as Kempeleenlahti from a small harbour.
A group of (22) Smew, mostly female or 1st-summer plumaged males. A further bunch of six
then flew in to join them. The wind and the
waves hampered proper observation. Goldeneye, Wigeon and Red-breasted Merganser abundant. Great Crested Grebe (5), Greylag Goose
(b/4, b/2), Whooper Swan (pr), Common/Arctic Terns common, Greenshank (1), Ringed Plover (pr), Temminck's Stint overhead, Curlew,
Mallard, Shoveler, Black-headed Gull, Common Gull, Herring Gull and Lesser Black-backed Gull all noted. In the car park: Spotted Flycatcher,
White Wagtail and Hooded Crow.
NUOTTASAARI, OULU PORT
1610h. Tried to get in to the port but there appeared to be security. A rough gravel car park with adjacent waste ground on the south side
of the port held an Arctic Tern colony. Difficult to judge the size as birds were nesting in sparse vegetation approximately 40 cm high. At
least 20 pairs with adults feeding young. Two half-grown chicks were wandering off the site towards the road. At least two Redshank present
and several pairs of Ringed Plover including one chick. Also a White Wagtail and a Skylark nearby.
LIMINKA WWF
1830h. Slept in the car back at the reserve car park until 2100h, and then cooked dinner. Pied Flycatchers in the birches surrounding the car
park. Skylark singing and Curlew displaying. Mistle Thrush (o/h) calling.
FINNATURE EXCURSION
2300h. Met up with the Finnature guide along with a couple from England for an 8 hour owling trip. Drove about 100 km southwest from the
reserve. First stopped at a pair of lakes near Varri. Wigeon numerous including a female with a brood of five ducklings. Teal common with one
female with (b/8). Elk common along and on the road. Slavonian Grebe (1). Thrush Nightingales singing. A pair of Slavonian Grebes then found
on the lake on the opposite side of the road. Sand Martins fairly abundant here. Marsh Harrier (o/h) carrying food and mobbed by terns.
Many duck broods on this lake - many of the ducklings jumping up to snap on flying insects. Little Gulls, Sedge Warblers singing, several
Woodcocks displaying, Coots common, and Tufted Duck noted. Moved round to the other side of one of the lakes where three Thrush
Nightingales were singing in close proximity. Very loud in the still air. Sounding louder than megarhynchos although not as melodic.
Day
5
Wednesday 25 June 2003
Liminka, Oulu > Kalliojärvi > Kuusamojärvi > Torankijärvi > Valtavaara
Partly cloudy, cloudy later, some rain in Kuusamo, max temperature 22°C
Birding through the night until 0800am when we returned to the WWT centre. The guide also took us to see Finland's only breeding pair of
Crested Larks - well out of range anyway. The thing was, I drove along this road the day before, registered a lark crossing the road here
and just assumed Skylark. Skylarks are not that abundant here and there were none singing at this site today!! Couldn't sleep during the
'daylight' and 21°C in a tent is not that comfortable so I drove across the country to the Kuusamo area. Went to check out the Juntilla area
and found Little and Rustic Bunting. Then headed to the famous Valtavaara ridge for the Finnish bird - Red-flanked Bluetail - a bird of the
Siberian taiga at its only know European site. Slept from 2130 to 0100h.
Highlights: Great Grey Owl (pr + chick on nest, another fledged chick from another nest), Pygmy Owl (pr + 5 fledged young), Tengmalm's Owl
(family in a nest box), Short-eared Owl (10+), Salvonian Grebe, Terek Sandpiper, Marsh Sandpiper, Crested Lark, Smew, Little Bunting, Rustic Bunting.
0005h. Attempted to view one bird singing from thick birch, willow and pine scrub but it was too tightly concealed. Drove on further into the
forest along rough tracks.
0032h. Stopped to listen for any calling owls. Young Long-eared Owls heard calling. Crane (3), Brown Hare, Sedge Warblers singing, Robin
singing, Curlew calling, Lapwing with young. After a few minutes, (10) Cranes appeared in the field from behind a strip of trees. Fieldfare
singing and a male Blackbird noted.
0050h. Elk (4) noted in an area of conifer re-growth. Another two c400 metres along the road. Whinchat in another clear fell area. Blackbird,
Willow Warbler and Redwing singing.
0105h. Great Grey Owl chick calling.
0125h. Moved to another site where a large (dog-sized) basket had been erected in a tree a few years ago with the intention of attracting
nesting owls. Situated on the edge of a forest with a small area of clear fell area between the nest and the road. A female Great Grey Owl
was sitting on it with a single chick visible. After 10 minutes or so, the male flew in with a vole, passed it to the female then quickly left. Over
the next 15-20 minutes the female ripped up the rodent and fed one chick (or the only chick). Excellent views from the roadside and the
blood on the adults beak was even visible. Garden Warbler singing.
0156h. Woodcock sitting at the side of the road near Keskikyla as we passed in the car. Yellowhammer singing.
0205h. Short-eared Owl perched near the top of a dead, bare pine standing alone in a clear fell area. Flew to another dead tree after
several minutes observation. Tree Pipits displaying.
0212h. Another Short-eared Owl a few kilometres on from the last stop, again in a clear fell area, perched on top of a dead birch trunk.
0222h. Goldcrest, Chaffinch, and Tree Pipits singing.
0310h. A third Short-eared Owl. Garden Warblers and Tree Pipits common.
0315h. Stopped regularly from now on to listen for owls.
0335h. Heard a Great Grey Owl chick about 100 metres from the trackside in an area of forestry. Managed to locate a single chick perched
one metre above the ground in a dark, shady area of woodland - views down to five metres.
0350h. Elk (3) on the road near Piehinki. Drove back towards the Oulu area.
0530h. Kiiminli area. Walked a fair distance through some rough, regenerating clear fell to an area of fairly open birch woodland. Pygmy Owls
were heard calling several minutes before we found them. A high pitched Robin-like note and piping calls were heard. Watched two adults and
up to five fledged owlets at close range on the edge of the wood. Tiny owls - between the size of Starling and a Sparrow. One of the
juveniles was disturbed from the ground in the area of cleared forestry. It fluttered on a short distance. All birds contact calling
continuously.
0630h. Drove on through a fragmented area of forestry and clear fell patches to an area of open, old spruce woodland. Walked into the wood
towards a known site where a nest box had been situated. As we approached the box, though still some distance away, an adult Tengmalm's
Owl stuck its head out of the hole. It remained on watch in this position even until after we had left. Large yellow eyes impacting a surprised
look from the two, large, white facial discs bordered with black and spotted forehead. This individual had a rather dark upper breast.
NUOTTASAARI, OULU PORT
0740h. Crested Lark observed by the roadside along waste ground/workings. Apparently the only known breeding site in Finland this year.
Normal northerly range reaching Denmark and Estonia. Wheatear also present here. Starling (30+). Pool at the dock/port: Wood Sandpiper
(5). Redshank (5+). Marsh Sandpiper (1). Ruff (2mm + 1f). Two Terek Sandpipers were disturbed from a concealed location on the other
side of the pool. They towered high in to the sky and were visible for several minutes. Sand Martin (20+). Wheatear (1). Slow-moving channel
between the freight railway lines: Common Rosefinch (1), Redpoll (4), Oystercatcher (o/h), Great Tit in a willow copse, Arctic Terns
overhead, Reed Bunting, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Chaffinch, Garden Warbler, Willow Warbler, Sedge Warbler and Yellowhammer singing. Gravel
car park: Ringed Plovers and Arctic Terns at the breeding colony visited yesterday.
0807h. Two Short-eared Owls hunting together near Tupos on the road back to Liminka. Rook (flock of 60), Hooded Crow, Song Thrush, and
Curlew also noted. Tree Pipit and Common Sandpiper back at the campsite.
DRIVE FROM LIMINKA TO KUUSAMO
Species noted en route: Feral Pigeon, Kestrel, Rook, Fieldfare, Magpie, Jackdaw, Whooper Swan, Hooded Crow, Swallow, White Wagtail and
Black-throated Diver. Many Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus)
along Road 20. Stopped to sleep (2hrs).
1350h. Stopped for a few minutes at Kalliojärvi. The lake held a single Whooper Swan and three Black-throated Divers. Brambling, Chaffinch
and Willow Warbler singing.
1600h. A pair of Great Spotted Woodpeckers at a nest site in the town of Kuusamo.
KUUSAMOJÄRVI
1640h. Observations from the edge of the lake at a small slipway for boats. A pair of Whooper Swans breeding - the female sitting on a nest
quite far out on the floating vegetation. Little Terns and Arctic Terns common. White Wagtail (pr). Common Rosefinch singing. Family group of
Fieldfares in waterside birches. Greenshank feeding on top of floating vegetation at the water's edge. Great Tit calling. Willow Warbler and Chaffinch singing. Goldeneye (f).
Started to rain heavily.
LAKE TORANKI (TORANKIJÄRVI)
1730h. A single Red-necked Grebe present along with at least four pairs of Great Crested Grebes. Female Marsh Harrier present - probably one
of the most northerly individuals in Finland and out of range according to Collins Bird Guide (1999). Raven overhead. Muskrat (3+) including
several nests. Common Rosefinches singing. Smew (pr). Goldeneye common including a female with a brood of six chicks. Wood Sandpiper
(pr). Tufted Duck (60+). Teal (10+). Arctic Terns common. Brambling singing. Chaffinches singing.
JUNTILLA AREA
1930h. A pair of Little Buntings feeding in the sparse birch/pine bog around the edge of the loch here. Observed flying over the road behind
into birch scrub with food for young, before returning to the lake side. A male Rustic Bunting with food for young, perched briefly on the wire
here. Several Reed Buntings singing. Wood Sandpiper displaying. Brambling, Willow Warbler and Chaffinch singing. Curlew displaying. Arctic
Terns over the lake. Common Rosefinch singing. Little Gull and Black-headed Gulls breeding in the area. Goldeneye overhead. Whooper
Swan (pr) in the corner.
VALTAVAARA
2100h. Stayed overnight at the car park for the Valtavaara ridge north of Ruka. Some seed and food dispensers had been placed at the
information board by the local bird group. Bullfinch and Great Tit feeding here. Slept until 0100h.
Day
6
Thursday 26 June 2003
Valtavaara > Oulanka National Park > Ilmakkiaapa (Petkula Bog).
Blue sky, max temperature 20°C
Got up at 0100h and walked 4km up and along the ridge through ancient spruce woodland literally draped in beard-type lichens. Searched for
seven hours but failed on the RFB. The experience of the view of the mist hanging over lakes and forest as far as the eye could see and the
calling Black-throated Divers was well worth it. Headed north into Lapland, by-passing Santa and Sami historical sites and museums, and
dodging Reindeer on the road, eventually getting to bed at 0145h after seeing Hawk Owl just after midnight.
Highlights: Siberian Jay (11), Greenish Warbler, Honey Buzzard, Smew, Broad-billed Sandpiper, Black-throated Diver, Waxwing.
 VALTAVAARA
0100h. GPS: 66°12' 26N 29°12' 59E at the road cutting through the ridge.
Two Siberian Jays at the feeders when I woke up and peered out the car window. Walked from the car park up the hill and along the southern
Valtavaara ridge to the third peak with small hut. Searched for around five hours for the Red-flanked Bluetails but with no luck. The only
birds singing from the tops of spruce trees were Redstarts (6 singing mm), Willow Warblers and Tree Pipits. Flocks of eight, 20, 30+ and five
Common Crossbills noted overhead. Birdsong fairly quiet on the way up. From the top (450 metres asl) four pairs of Black-throated Divers
were visible on three lakes on the southern/western side of the ridge. First became aware of them when one bird began uttering its mournful
call. Two pairs of Whooper Swans - one pair with a brood of four small cygnets. Two female Teal also picked out. Tree Pipit feeding two
recently fledged chicks on the ground approximately 30 metres apart. Magpie at the top. Nice views of a Honey Buzzard patrolling the spruce
woodland on the lower slope. A male Black Woodpecker observed in flight, then on a dead spruce trunk. Greenish Warbler observed at close
range flitting about some small birches and picking insects off the ground. Birdsong began to increase after 0300h. Many Bramblings and
Chaffinches singing. Two Great Spotted Woodpeckers drumming and a brief drum from a Three-toed Woodpecker. Bullfinches common. Siskin,
Great Tit and Dunnock (2) also noted. On the lower slope of the trail, a Greenish Warbler was observed carrying a beak full of insects while
another bird was calling nearby. Returned at 0800h. Much activity at the feeders in the car park. The most entertaining was the family party
of Siberian Jays (2 ads + 5 juvs). These birds were fairly tame and reminded me of the Azure-winged Magpies around the picnic tables at El
Acebuche in Doñana National Park. They first arrived from the woodland on the opposite side of the road, flying across one at a time in a
rather weak, fluttering flight. Much squabbling and vocalisation when feeding on the bread I threw for them. Took a few digital photos but
they were mostly too quick in snatching the bread for the shutter to capture a good image. At least four different Red Squirrels coming to the
feeders. Bullfinch (4mm + 1f), Great Tit (2-3), Siskin (2+), Brambling (f), Great Spotted Woodpecker (f), Willow Tit (1) and a single Siberian
Tit. Three Reindeer wandered by.
 3 Km EAST OF RAYLA 66°19' 16N 29°07' 44E
1055h. An area of bog with a pool surrounded by stunted pines and birches. Common Crossbill (18) overhead. Kestrel hovering over the bog.
Reed Buntings singing from the small pines and birches. Lapland Ringlets (Erebia embla) common. Frigga's Fritillary (Clossiana frigga) common -
flying low over the ground. Cuckoo, Tree Pipit, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Great Tit, and Goldeneye also present.
KIUTAKÖNGÄS, OULANKA NATIONAL PARK 66°22' 04N 29°10' 02E
1300h. Swallowtail (Papilio machaon) on the outskirts. Trail along the river: White Wagtail, Dipper, (2 ads + juv), Siskin, Crossbill (o/h),
Brambling singing. A family of Siberian Tits (2 ads + 3 juvs) watched for around 10 minutes feeding high up in spruce trees covered with
'beard' type lichens. Pied Flycatchers singing. Chaffinch singing. A few Sand Martins over the larger pools. Watched a female Pied Flycatcher
from the café at the visitor centre. Another Siberian Jay near the junction with the E63 Kuusamo road.
ROADSIDE LAKE NEAR VARPASALMI 66°18' 15N 28°52' 49E
1530h. Smew (redhead). Black-throated Diver (pr), Red-breasted Merganser (pr), Goldeneye (10+), Tufted Duck (pr), Great Spotted
Woodpecker (calling), Arctic Tern, Swallow, House Martin, Chaffinch, and Curlew calling.
ANOTHER LAKE A FEW KM ON 66°19' 27N 28°48' 36E
Smew (3 adult mm + 5 redheads). Arctic Terns nesting on dry mud. Whinchat (1), Willow Warbler, Curlew calling, Teal (15 mm + 3ff), Hooded
Crow, Goldeneye (f + b/13), Yellowhammer, Tufted Duck (10+), Mallard, Pintail (f), singing male Whitethroat, Magpie, Muskrat 'homes',
Brambling singing in Scots Pine woodland, Siskin, Raven (2) overhead, Reed Buntings singing, Sand Martins over the lake, Red-breasted
Merganser (pr), Barn Swallow, Whimbrel overhead.
ILMAKKIAAPA (PETKULA BOG) 67°42' 18N 26°45' 33E
2345h. A Broad-billed Sandpiper disturbed from the bog close to the boardwalk running across to the lake. Smew (8), Wood Sandpiper (2),
Cuckoo (2 singing mm), Teal (40+), Goldeneye (20+, f + b/7, f + b/9), Lapwing (1), Tufted Duck (30+), Pintail (2ff + b/8), Yellow Wagtail (2).
Hawk Owl observed in flight over the lake, flying right to left and disappearing into the woodland. Bluethroat (2 singing mm),Wigeon (4),
Mallard (11), Brambling, Fieldfare, Siskin and Herring Gull noted.
Day
7
Friday 27 June 2003
Ilmakkiaapa (Petkula Bog) > Peurasuvannon Lintutorni > Urho Kekkoien National Park > Juurakkovuopajan > Haapalahti Lintutorni
Cloudy, max temperature 24°C
Woke up at 0850h to the sounds of Brambling and Red-spotted Bluethroat singing away. Continued on the road north noticing subtle changes
in the habitat…after all the country is mostly birch, pine or spruce woodland (or a mix), bogs and lakes - there are 187,888 of them! While
most of the woodland is actually a commercial crop there are some very old areas in the north under protection. Checked in at a campsite
and had an early night drifting off to the sounds of displaying Greenshank and Wood Sandpipers and an Arctic Tern colony. I woke up around
one a.m. and my skin was stone-cold and could hardly move. Climbed into the car where it was a little warmer.
Highlights: Hawk Owl, Bluethroat, Willow Grouse, Arctic Warbler, Smew, Arctic Redpoll, Little Bunting, (Grey-headed) Yellow Wagtail
(thunbergi race), Three-toed Woodpecker, Rustic Bunting, Waxwing, Black-throated Diver, White-tailed Eagle. Rough-legged Buzzard.
 ILMAKKIAAPA (PETKULA BOG) 67°42' 18N 26°45' 33E
0130h. At least one male, maybe more, Willow Grouse calling from the boggy heathland/birch woodland on the opposite side of the road -
giving the the nasal bark which accelerates in to a trill. Curlew calling. Raven and Lapwing also calling. Arctic Warbler heard singing (three
times) from birch/willow scrub along the parking lay-by.
ILMAKKIAAPA (PETKULA BOG) 67°42' 18N 26°45' 33E
0840h. Pintail with a brood of ducklings very close to the road. Brambling and Bluethroat singing. Kestrel hunting. White faced Darters
(Leucorrhinia) numerous and a Hawker (Aeshna) sp. noted. Little Bunting carrying food from the bog, over the road to a nest site. Common
Redpoll (1). Arctic Warbler observed in small birches - just a fleeting glimpse - but recognised by its distinctive song which it voiced three
times. Herring Gull (7) overhead. Nice views of a pair of (Grey-headed) Yellow Wagtails collecting insects form the ground just metres from
the lay-by. Lapwing and Hooded Crow calling.
PEURASUVANNON LINTUTORNI 67°48' 58N 26°46' 17E
0945h. Waxwings heard calling, then watched in flight overhead. Bluethroat and Brambling singing, Common Sandpiper, Swallow, Willow
Warbler, Redpoll, Hooded Crow, Goldeneye (f), Sand Martin, Cuckoo singing, and Raven. White-faced Darters common - some individuals
landing on the tower supports where paper wasps were chewing away at the wood! Blue Coenagrion damselflies common, some of which were
Northern Damselfly (C. hastulatum). Song Thrush, Siskin, and White Wagtail also noted.
DRIVE NORTH
Species noted along the road: Swallow, White Wagtail, Whooper Swan, Raven. A Siberian Jay over the road approximately 5 km south of the
turn off for Tankavaara.
URHO KEKKOIEN NATIONAL PARK 68°10' 32N 27°06' 04 E
1115h. Almost birdless apart from Brambling, Redwing, Willow Warbler and Great Tit.
MIELIKKÖJARVEN 68°44' 01N 27°42' 34E
1245h. Drove 6 km along the road to Veskoniemi, northeast of Ivalo, to another lintutorni.
Redwing (4-5 singing mm) in the area around the tower. Several alarm calling Fieldfares. Common Cranes breeding here - two adults and two
chicks feeding out on the bog. Hooded Crow, Siskin, Goldeneye (b/6, b/8), Tufted Duck (2 prs), Brambling and Willow Warbler singing, Meadow
Pipits displaying, Green and Wood Sandpipers displaying, an elk grazing, Little Gull (1), Arctic Tern (1), Cuckoo singing, and a second elk
appeared.
1400h. Lake on the other side of the road: Wood Sandpiper alarm calling (digiscoped). A Three-toed Woodpecker flew over the lake and
disappeared into pines by the road. Several Cranberry Fritillaries (Boloria aquilonaris) in the woodland here along with a single Lapland
Fritillary. Reed Buntings singing. Mallard (f + b/8) and Tufted Duck (pr). Hawkers and Darters common, particularly White-faced Darters.
 JUURAKKOVUOPAJAN 68°45' 45N 27°40' 14E
1445h. Walked along the 1.2 km trail to the lintutorni where at least 20 Cranberry Fritillaries were observed flying low over the ground. Also a
single Lapland Ringlet. Brambling (pr) in pure birch woodland. Greenshank (2) alarm calling around the tower. Smew (f + b/6), Goldeneye (f +
b/7), Wigeon (f + b/6), Willow Warbler singing, Black-headed Gull, several Arctic Terns, Cuckoo singing, Mistle Thrush (2), Green Sandpiper (in
flight), Rustic Bunting in flight over the bog, Muskrat, Reed Bunting singing, Yellow Wagtail (digiscoped), Redpolls overhead, Brambling,
Redwing, and a Wheatear perched on top of a tall pine.
HAAPALAHTO LINTUTORNI 69°04' 10N 27°06' 31E
1800h. Waxwing calling, Smew (m), Great Tit using a nestbox here, Redpolls numerous,Goldcrests calling, Arctic Terns numerous, Goldeneyes
with broods, Mallard, Bluethroats singing, Pied Flycatcher (m) and a Redstart (f).
Day
8
Saturday 28 June 2003
Jokitorma > Utsjoki > Mount Ailegas > NORWAY > Nesseby > Vadsø > Store Ekkerøy
Cloudy, fairly windy later on the coast, max temperature 8°C in Norway
The lack of sleep finally caught up with me and I wasn't on the road until nearly midday. Climbed a hill near the Finnish/Norwegian border.
This far north and Dwarf Birch (Betula nana) dominates the landscape which gradually and naturally becomes treeless along the Varanger
Peninsula where a sub-Arctic tundra comprises the environment. Reached the legendary Nesseby Church where it felt like a January day on
the Ayrshire coast - bitter and overcast. There, on the pool below the church, were the extremely tame Red-necked Phalaropes 'spinning'
around on the water. The Arctic Skuas began to dive bomb me and the fjord was full of seabirds. Camped (that is, slept in the car) on Store
Ekkerøy island, connected to the mainland by a causeway.
Highlights: Steller's Eider, Arctic Skua, Great Skua, Lapland Bunting, Red-necked Phalarope, Rough-legged Buzzard, White-tailed Eagle,
Bluethroat, Red-throated Diver, Fulmar, Puffin, Black Guillemot, Razorbill, Northern Guillemot, Kittiwake, Ring Ouzel, Dotterel.
JOKITORMA > UTSJOKI
1145h. Rough-legged Buzzard (2) over the road.
 UTSJOKI
1230h. Arctic Woodland Ringlet (Erebia polairs) found along a track at the south end of the town of Utsjoki.
MOUNT AILEGAS (342 metres asl) 69°54' 48N 27°05' 25E
1800h. Walked up from the road 970 to the barren peak through scrub and dwarf
vegetation. Excellent views of a male Red-spotted
Bluethroat perched on a roadside wire here (digiscoped). Numerous Bramblings and Willow Warblers singing from dwarf birch scrub on the climb
up. Bluethroat and Cuckoo singing. Excellent views of a soaring and hovering Rough-legged Buzzard at close range, showing the pale/white
tail with dark terminal band, white upper primary panels and narrow pale breast band. Another two Bluethroats observed including one bird
sitting on a wire close to a Tree Pipit. Redstart and Redwing noted half way up. Meadow Pipit near the top. A further three Bluethroats found.
Near the transmitter, a pair of Wheatears were present, the male carrying a large cranefly. Covered a large area searching for grouse and
Dotterel. Several pairs of Wheatears in the area. Meadow Pipits displaying. Heard a Dotterel calling in the distance, approaching closer, good
views of a female display flighting over the area. Later on, a group of four Dotterel was circling fairly high over a large area from the
transmitter to the high, flat hill to the northeast. Ring Ouzel heard singing in the distance to the northeast.
~ NORWAY ~
One hour ahead of UK Time Zone.
Species note on the drive:
Rough-legged Buzzard, White Wagtail, Hooded Crow, Fieldfare, Magpie, Mallard, Wigeon, Wheatear, and Shag.
VARANGERFJORD 70°10' 32N 28°41' 13E
Stopped on the fjord between Nyborg and Nesseby. As cold as the Ayrshire coast in January. Goosander (4), Eider (15 inc. f + b/7),
White-tailed Eagle (imm) flying over the sea, Redpoll sp. in the dwarf birch cover, Oystercatcher (pr) nesting and seeing off attendant
Hooded Crows at times, Common Gull, Herring Gull and several Arctic Terns.
NESSEBY CHURCH 70°08' 42N 28°51' 57E
1810h. House Sparrows common around the churchyard gate. Great Black-backed Gull overhead. Walked straight down to the pool below the
church which is actually part of a designated nature reserve. As hoped for, several Red-necked Phalaropes were bobbing around on the
water surface. At least six birds were present but one flew off as I arrived. The rest were relatively tame or at least not at all disturbed by
my close presence and were approachable to within three metres. When spooked they would swim into the surrounding emergent vegetation,
taking invertebrates from the stems. Some eventually started to roost after an hour or so. On the headland above the pool a pair of Arctic
Skuas were nesting - one dark phase and light phase. House Sparrow (20+) around the churchyard. Several pairs of Oystercatchers nesting
in the area, rising up to mob passing Hooded Crows. Meadow Pipits displaying. A pair of Wheatears present. Large numbers of birds moving up
and down the fjord and breeding on the low lying islands offshore: Arctic Skua (20+), Great Skua (1), Red-throated Diver (2), one sitting in
the sea, the other flying by, Puffin (numerous), Guillemot (common), Razorbill (common), Black Guillemot (4+), Fulmar (10+), Kittiwake
(common), Arctic Tern (numerous), Red-breasted Merganser, Eider common including a crèche of (28) chicks, Great Black-backed and Lesser
Black-backed Gulls with many chicks visible on the islands, Herring Gull, Shag (1), Cormorant (1). Back in the bay to the north of the church:
Ringed Plover (3), Bar-tailed Godwits (68) including 11 birds in full breeding plumage. Shelduck (pair).
 
VADSØ 70°04' 23N 29°47' 11E
2215h. Bay on the east side of Vadsø: A group of (9) Steller's Eiders feeding approximately 80 metres away with some Common Eiders (inc. f
+ b/4) along seaweed-covered rocks. At least (70) Goosanders in the bay, mainly immatures and adults in moult. Dunlin (100+), Bar-tailed
Godwit (10+), Knot (2), Wheatear (3+), Arctic Tern, Mallard, Redshank, Ringed Plover, Oystercatcher, 'Baltic' Lesser Black-backed Gull,
Herring Gull, Common Gull. Cloud began to break up.
STORE EKKERØY
2230h. An island connected by a causeway to the mainland. A huge colony (reported to be c 10000 pairs) of Kittiwakes on the cliffs at the
south end of the island. Many Goosanders, Eider and Bar-tailed Godwits along the shores. Several Arctic Skuas over the village and a pair
nesting on heathland. Wheatears common. Three Lapland Buntings heard singing - good view of an adult male perched close by on a rock.
Red-necked Phalaropes (3) on the large pool on the moorland in the centre of the island. A Golden Plover sitting here.
Day
9
Sunday 29 June 2003
Store Ekkerøy > Indrekiberg > Vardø > Varangerfjord
Blue sky, max temperature 12°C
Woke up to a full blue sky and explored Ekkerøy island finding many great birds. There is a huge Kittiwake colony here where Snowy Owls are
sometimes seen taking birds - but no luck today. Drove further east to Vardø which is another island connected to the mainland by a 3 km
tunnel under the sea. More Arctic species. Went to the harbour to find out about getting a boat out to the seabird island of Hornøya. A small
boat could take me tomorrow at 0900h for 175 Norwegian Kronas (£15). This island is one of the few places in Europe
where five species of Alcids can be seen - about 3-400 pairs of Brünnich's Guillemots nest on the ledges along side Common Guillemot,
Razorbill, Black Guillemot and Puffin.
Highlights: Long-tailed Skua, Red-throated Pipit, Arctic Redpoll, Red-necked Phalarope, Lapland Bunting, Shore Lark, Rough-legged Buzzard,
Steller's Eider, King Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Snow Bunting.
STORE EKKERØY
0800h. Woke up to full blue sky and calm day - a big change from last night. Meadow Pipit, Herring Gull, Hooded Crow, and Wheatear noted
around the car. Just two minutes after leaving the car, I began checking every Anthus species. The second pipit was a Red-throated Pipit.
Soon two birds were song-flighting off the low cliff above the sheep track towards the Kittiwake colony. Two birds observed had pale orange
throat plumage another male had much stronger, red plumage. A group of four nice and white plumaged Arctic Redpolls on the cliff top above
the Kittiwake colony - completely treeless landscape. White Wagtail and House Sparrow noted. At least 27 Red-necked Phalaropes
'spinning' around on the main pool with some feeding in the mud allowing the
partially webbed toes to be seen. Again they were implausibly approachable, coming to within one and a half
metres - a bit too fast for photographing, especially as they were actively
snapping gnats from the air and water surface. White Wagtail and Kittiwake observed mobbing a Hooded Crow here. Lapland Buntings fairly common
- one male watched carrying food to a nest and another male song-flighting close by. Golden Plover (pr), Redshank (pr), and Dunlin (pr).
Three pairs of Red-throated Pipits breeding just behind the foreshore along a 200 metre stretch of the north coast. One male displaying and
around 4-5 birds carrying food for young in nests near the dry stone walls. Some Norwegian birders reported another 50 Red-necked
Phalaropes on a pool at the far end of the island. Ruff overhead. Also noted: Lesser Black-backed Gull, Great Black-backed Gull, Shag (4),
Herring Gull, Common Gull, several more pairs of Redshank, Oystercatcher and Ringed Plovers. House Sparrows common around the village.
Many Eider broods. Bar-tailed Godwits in the bay east of the causeway. A Lemming seen hurrying across a track.
 
SPECIES NOTED ON THE DRIVE
Shore Lark (2), White Wagtail, Golden Plover, Fieldfare, Wheatear (common), Rough-legged Buzzard (hovering by roadside), Raven (1+2),
Ringed Plover, Arctic Skua (common), Kittiwake, Arctic Skuas mobbing some walkers, Long-tailed Skua (5 light-phase) at 70°15' 40N 30°44'
54E, another (dark-phase) Long-tailed Skua.
70°15' 47N 30°46' 22E
Hundreds of reindeer along the coast, Arctic Redpoll (2), Arctic Skua (3), hundreds of Arctic Terns, and Wheatear.
INDREKIBERG 70°16' 11N 30°57' 05E
1245h. A few hundred Eider in the bay here. Very strong heat haze preventing identification of much of the flock. Goosanders again present
here. Long-tailed Duck (ad m) in breeding plumage. Red-throated Pipits displaying.Oystercatcher, Redshank and Arctic Terns common. Four
Steller's Eiders feeding closer in along the seaweed covered rocks. In flight they appeared approximately 75% the size/mass of a female
Common Eider they were flying with. Rough-legged Buzzard hovering behind the village. Redshanks perched on telegraph poles in the village.
VARDØ 70°22' 46N 31°07' 22E
Drove through the 3 km tunnel under the sea from the mainland to the island of Vardø. Observations from the southeast of the island
towards the smaller island of Hornøya: Large numbers of breeding birds on the cliffs just above the jetty. Rafts of Puffins and auks on the sea
below. The Guillemots were too distant to find the Arctic species among them. Arranged for a boat trip tomorrow at 0900h (K175/£15).
Kittiwakes nesting on buildings around the harbour.
1445h. Observations around the northeast of the island: Barren, treeless and rocky landscape - Redwings singing from the ground. Fieldfares
also present. Feral Pigeons overhead. Arctic Redpoll (2) overhead - one landing close by on a rock. Wheatears common. Amazingly, a Willow
Warbler singing as well from vegetation that was a maximum of 30-40 cm high. Kittiwakes and Arctic Terns flying overhead. Meadow Pipits
displaying. A singing Willow Warbler, perched on a diagonal wire supporting a short telecommunications mast, had a more elevated position
than its territorial neighbour. Two more Redwings observed singing from prominent outcrops on the tundra (like a Ring Ouzel or Rock Thrush).
Several Meadow Pipit fledglings flushed from the ground. A nice male Snow Bunting flew past in fine white and black plumage. Rock Pipit
(Scandinavian race littoralis) with a beak full of cranefly and still managing to alarm call from the boulder-strewn coastline. Three male Long-tailed Ducks
passed by. A group of 81 Goosanders also held six Long-tailed Ducks along with a few Black Guillemots diving among them. Puffins and
alcids passing regularly in small flocks.
 
Observation of the sea and islands: The seabird colonies out on the two small islands of Reinøya and Hornøya were clearly audible from Vardø.
Scope views of hundreds of gulls, auks, Puffins, Shags, Kittiwakes, Arctic Terns, Eiders, Goosanders, Skuas, Cormorants and Great
Black-backed Gulls with chicks on the grassy tops. One Long-tailed Skua pursuing a Puffin, driving it down towards the sea. A single Raven
flew from Vardø across to Reinøya. Scoped an Arctic Skua sitting on the grassy top of Reinøya, presumably on its nest. Most of the
Guillemots identifiable on the sea through the heat haze appeared to be of the 'bridled' form.
1615h. Walked across to the north coast: A large Arctic Tern colony found on the northeast coast. Found a group of (12) King Eiders roosting
on seaweed covered rocks with a single Long-tailed Duck and a Goosander. All Kings were immature birds with the exception of a fine adult
drake. Something flushed them into the bay but they quickly returned to lazing back on the rocks.
1650h. Close views of a singing male Snow Bunting on bare rocky outcrops. After a few minutes it chased off another nearby male. A further
seven King Eiders appeared from behind a ledge on a rocky islet included two 1st summer males. The Snow Bunting back on its rock
at 1701h
with a Fieldfare close by. Then, three Fieldfares flew by alarm calling. Many Arctic Skuas moving around in the channel between Vardø and
the mainland of the Varanger peninsula. Several birds attacking Kittiwakes. Possibly three male Snow Buntings in this area. Redwings heard
uttering their 'seeep' calls heard during migration in Britain. Three King Eiders (1m/2ff) flying west along the coast dropped onto the sea
amongst a large, distant flock of duck. A Bearded Seal sticking its head out of the sea c100 metres offshore. Black Guillemots and Goosanders
passing. Observed one of the Snow Buntings pulling off the black, crusty, leaf lichens from the bare rocks while searching for invertebrates. It
then moved into some short vegetation and caught a few cranefly - this insect appears to be the staple diet for many passerines in this area.
It carried them off, probably for young/incubating female.
2100h. Camped at the southeastern end of the island closest to Hornøya. By 2200h the heat haze had disappeared and the sea was more
calm. The visibility was good enough to pick out every auk on the ledges of the island and every bird sitting on the sea.
Day
10
Monday 30 June 2003
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