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Arizona

29 Jul -13 Aug 2006

Observers:

F. Simpson & L. Ketchen

INTRODUCTION

After a taster of North American birds in Central Park in New York a few years I decided it was time for a proper trip. Several states were considered and after some advice from several people, Arizona was chosen for the general diversity, Mexican specialities, hummingbirds and the landscapes. We notched up over 200 species in 10 days before heading north to relax around the splendid scenery of the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley. We camped as usual for that back to nature experience when the weather allowed (electrical storms, flash floods, dust storms not withstanding) but regularly stayed in mountain lodges and cabins. Temperatures were actually cooler than southern England had been before we left. This southern US state is not just about deserts and Roadrunners – in fact it is one of the most diverse in terms of numbers and habitats. Some of the highlights were Aztec Thrush (a very popular bird attracting many US listers), Elegant Trogon, Arizona Woodpecker, Gray Hawk, Cactus Wren, Painted Redstart, Phainopepla, Crissal Thrasher, California Condor, Black-capped Gnatcatcher, Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher, Varied Bunting, Painted Bunting, and Botteri’s Sparrow. But it was the hummingbirds which really stand out and the ease of observing and identifying them. This is possible due to the dedicated birders who open their gardens (festooned with hummingbird feeders) to the public, allowing comfortable and extended viewing opportunities – none of this brief view in a shady rainforest that I’m more used to. Notable properties we visited for hummers were Santa Rita Lodge, The Paton’s yard in Patagonia, Beatty’s Guest Ranch in the Huachuca Mountains, Portal Peak Lodge in the Chiricahua Mountains, and nearby, George Walker House in the hamlet of Paradise.

HIGHLIGHTS

Aztec Thrush · Elegant Trogon · California Condor · Common Black-Hawk · Wild Turkey · Inca Dove · Greater Roadrunner ·

Lesser Nighthawk · Berylline Hummingbird · White-eared Hummingbird · Gila Woodpecker · Arizona Woodpecker ·

Dusky-capped Flycatcher · Thick-billed Kingbird · Tropical Kingbird · Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher · Western Scrub-Jay ·  

Chihuahuan Raven · Juniper Titmouse · Mexican Chickadee · Cactus Wren · Black-capped Gnatcatcher · Crissal Thrasher ·

Phainopepla · Painted Redstart · Red-faced Warbler · Pyrrhuloxia · Varied Bunting · Painted Bunting

 LOGISTICS

Flights

Continental Airlines www.continental.com

Flight from London, England (LGW-Gatwick) to New York/Newark, NJ (EWR-Liberty) ~8 hrs, followed by flight to Phoenix, AZ (PHX) ~ 5 hrs. Flights were about £600.

Ground Transport

Car hire pre-booked through Holiday Autos with rental from Alamo. Price was £380 for the 15 days. The pickup office is five minutes from the terminal by free shuttle bus.

Accommodation

Campsites ranged from $5-15 per tent, though not all had wash basin facilities or showers. Toilets in the National Forest sites were holes/pits in the ground. Lodges were generally $80-95 per cabin/room and recommended for those who prefer their home comforts (see Useful Websites below).

Maps

A basic road map together with birding locality maps in the ABA/Lane guide by Taylor are sufficient. We also used the DeLorme Arizona Atlas & Gazetteer (1:250,000 scale of 1 inch to 4 miles, 76 pages) but this is not really necesarry unless your are looking for detailed topographical maps. Don't buy it in the UK (£20) as its easy to acquire it in Arizona for $20.

LITERATURE, REFERENCES & SITE GUIDES USED

01.      Taylor, R.C. 2005. A Birder's Guide to Southeastern Arizona. American Birding Association, Inc.
02.      Sibely, D. et al. 2000. The North American Bird Guide. Pica Press.
03.      Alden, P. et al. 1999. National Audubon Society Field Guide to the Southwestern States. Alfred A. Knopf, Inc.
04.      Grant, K. et al. 2005. Southwest USA. Lonely Planet. www.lonelyplanet.com
05.      Arizona Atlas & Gazetteer. DeLorme. www.delorme.com
06.      Hogg, A. 1997. California and Arizona, 26 July-16 August 1997. Privately published Trip Report.
07.      Whitehead, A. 1997. Arizona/California, 27 July-20 August 1997. Internet published Trip Report.
08.      Frazier, J. 1995. Arizona, 28 July-8 August 1995. Privately published Trip Report..
09.      Grimmond, R. 1997. Arizona and South-West Utah, 6-27 May 2000. Internet published Trip Report.

10.      Woolley, S. & Casson, J. 2001. South-eastern Arizona & north-central California, 24 July-14 Aug 2001. Internet.

USEFUL WEBSITES

•      Audubon Arizona

•      Sonoran Audubon Society A Birds of Arizona checklist can be downloaded from this site

•      Tucson Audubon Society

•      Fatbirder Arizona Links
•      Bird Links to the World: Arizona
•      Arizona-New Mexico Listserve (a.k.a. BIRDWG05)
•      Southeastern Arizona Bird Observatory
•      Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum
•      The George Walker Guest House Paradise in the Chiricahuahau Mountains

•      Santa Rita Lodge Madera Canyon in the Santa Rita Mountains

•      Arizona State Parks

•      Arizona Office of Tourism
•      American Birding Association

•      Grand Canyon National Park

•      American Southwest

ITINERARY

Day 01       29/07/06     London > Newark, New Jersey > Phoenix, Arizona
Day 02       30/07/06     Phoenix > Tucson > Saguaro National Park, Sonoran Desert
Day 03       31/07/06     Saguaro National Park > Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains
Day 04       01/08/06     Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains
Day 05       02/08/06     Madera Canyon > Florida Wash > Nogales Sewage Ponds > Kino Springs > Patagonia Lake
Day 06       03/08/06     Patagonia Lake > Patagonia > Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Reserve > Patons' Yard > Sonoita
Day 07       04/08/06     Carr Canyon, Huachuca Mountains > Beatty's Ranch, Miller Canyon > Bisbee > Douglas > Portal
Day 08       05/08/06     Portal Peak Lodge > Stateline Road > Sulphur Canyon Road > Rodeo > Chiricahua Mountains

Day 09       06/08/06     Herb Martyr Campground, Chiricahua Mountains > Silver Creek > Paradise > Barfoot Junction
Day 10       07/08/06     The George Walker House, Paradise > Silver Creek Road > Wilcox Playa > Saguaro NP
Day 11       08/08/06     Saguaro National Park > Tucson > Mount Lemmon > Rose Canyon, Santa Catalina Mountains
Day 12       09/08/06     Rose Canyon, Santa Catalina Mountains > Phoenix > Flagstaff > Grand Canyon
Day 13       10/08/06     South Rim of the Grand Canyon of the River Colorado
Day 14       11/08/06     Grand Canyon > Monument Valley
Day 15       12/08/06     Monument Valley > Flagstaff > Phoenix
Day 16       13/08/06     Phoenix > Newark, NJ > London

MAP OF GENERAL AREAS VISITED

THE DIARY

Day 1
Saturday 29 July 2006
London > Newark NY > Phoenix AZ

Trouble free travel, arriving late evening in Phoenix at the Sky Harbor Airport. Stayed in the Best Western Airport Inn, about a mile from the terminal.

Day 2
Sunday 30 July 2006
Phoenix > Tucson > Saguaro National Park, Sonoran Desert
Warm & cloudy

BEST WESTERN AIRPORT INN, PHONENIX AIRPORT
Woke up early due to the eight hour time difference. Eventually got up at 0715h and a quick look out the window produced the first Mourning Doves of the trip - a species which was to become the most abundant and widespread species encountered over the following two weeks. Also present were Western Kingbird, Great-tailed Grackle and Feral Pigeon. Watching the Weather Channel, the whole continent was baking hot and Tucson was experiencing severe flash floods causing road closures. Drove south towards Tucson on Interstate-10, noting Turkey Vultures (5), Red-tailed Hawk (1) and many Mourning Doves.

ARIZONA-SONORA DESERT MUSEUM | www.desertmuseum.org | 
Taking road-86 followed by Kinney Road along the base of the Tucson Mountains into the Sonoran Desert, we were soon heading through dense stands of columnar Giant Saguaro cacti - the blooms of which are the Arizona state flower. Museum sounds a bit misleading - this fantastic place is really a combined zoo, natural history museum, research facility, arboretum and botanical garden... along the plenty of wild wildlife. We found it the perfect introduction to Arizonan natural history and at least a full day could be spent here. Getting out the car we were greeted by some harsh calls with a Cactus Wren in the tree above our heads. This species quite common in the area. Our first hirundines in the hot sky above were Purple Martins. These birds nest in the Gaint Saguaros are apparent'y recognised as a distinct race endemic to southern Arizona. One of the aviaries contained a male Greater Roadrunner in the process of building a nest a few feet off the ground. Nice! But of course, I'd prefer a genuine wild bird... but just then a bizzare scene unfolded as an apparently wild male Roadrunner appeared and both birds began agressively facing up to each other though the chicken wire. The wild bird eventually gave up and ran off... meep meep!

Species noted: Verdin (3+), Purple Martin (10+), Gambel's Quail (1), Black-tailed Gnatcatcher (3+ prs), Gila Woodpecker (3), White-winged Dove, Catus Wren (common), Northern Cardinal, Ladder-backed Woodpecker (1), Mourning Dove (common), Turkey Vulture, Curve-billed Thrasher (2), Gilded Flicker (pr), Northern Mockingbird, Canyon Towhee (3), Inca Dove (4+), Greater Roadrunner (1), Common Ground Dove (2), Costa's Hummingbird (2+), Pyrrhuloxia (2), House Sparrow, Black-throated Sparrow, Bronzed Cowbird, Hooded Oriole and Lesser Goldfinch. Good for other desert wildlife with the following identified: Round-tailed Ground Squirrel (Spermophilus tereticaudus), Harris's Antelope Squirrel (Ammospermophilus harrisii), Desert Cottontail (Silvilagus audubonii), Rock Squirrel (Spermopgilus variegatus), Pipevine Swallowtail (Battus philenor), Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebis sennae), Sleepy Orange (Eurema nicippe), Queen (Danaus gilippus), Gray Hairstreak (Stymon melinus), Gulf Fritillary (Agraulis vanillae), Desert Firetail (Telebasis salva) and Mexican Amberwing (Perithemis intensa) dragonflies.

GILBERT RAY CAMPGROUND, SONORAN DESERT
Camped here on the edge of Saguaro National Park. By early evening, although hot, the skies were grey so we were disappointed not to see a classic desert sunset. Maybe we would return at the end of the trip. We pitched our new 2-second Quechua tent in, well, two seconds! Really this a great tent and can be packed away in less than half a minute. Species observed around our pitch: Cactus Wren, Purple Martin, Gambel's Quail, Gila Woodpecker, Northern Cardinal and Mourning Dove.

Day 3
Monday 31 July 2006
Saguaro National Park > Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains
Very warm & partly cloudy

GILBERT RAY CAMPGROUND, SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK, SONORAN DESERT
Extended lightning storms throughout the night. Set the alarm for 0500h but was stil raining. Out birding at 0615h. Two Rufous-winged Sparrows found singing. Ash-throated Flycatcher feeding low in desert scrub. Gila Woodpecker observed leaving a nest hole in a Saguaro cactus. Black-throated Sparrow singing at the edge of the access road into the campsite. Species noted: Curve-billed Thrasher, Verdin, Gambel's Quail (plus several calling), Gilded Flicker, White-winged Dove, Purple Martin, Mourning Dove, Northern Cardinal, House Finch, and Pyrrhuloxia.

DRIVE SOUTH ON INTERSTATE-19 TO SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Species noted along the roadside: Great-tailed Grackle, Brown-headed Cowbird, Raven, Mourning Dove, Turkey Vulture (7), Eurasian Starling, Northern Rough-winged Swallow, Gambel's Quail on a crash barrier near Green Valley, Cooper's Hawk, and White-winged Dove.

MADERA PICNIC AREA, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Along the road through the desert grassland into the footlands of the canyon, a Swainson's Hawk on a telegraph pole and a Common Raven on a second. Soon we were up around 1500 metres in mixed oak and pine woodland. The wash just below the picnic area was almost dry following the recent heavy rain but was full of mud and debris. Paid the $10 Forest Use Fee, read the Bear Aware notices (Lisa looking less happy now) and headed along the creek/stream before heading uphill to the Bog Springs campground. First off, I heard some calls that sounded vaguely Paridae-like and, not far off, a group of Bridled Titmouse were exploring the oaks. A couple of White-breasted Nuthatches were following in their tracks. Bell's Vireo flitting around. Flock of six Mexican Jays bounded overhead. Along the stream, some unidentified hummers were zipping past before we found a pair of Broad-billed Hummingbirds mating. Lesser Goldfinch singing from a tree top. Group of three Acorn Woodpeckers. Trail to Bog Springs: Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Arizona Woodpecker (6), Monarch (Danaus plexippus), Turkey Vulture, Arizona Gray Squirrel (Sciurus arizonensis), Western Wood-Pewee, Black-throated Gray-Warbler, another two groups of noisy Mexican Jays, a second group of Bridled Titmouse with attendent White-breasted Nuthatches, Hermit Thrush, and several Mourning Doves overhead. Several impressive Two-tailed Swallowtails (Papilo multicaudatus) and several Skipper species.

SANTA RITA LODGE | www.desertmuseum.org
We planned to camp tonight but once we saw the cabins and sugar-water hummingbird feeders here we were keen to stay a night. With luck, cabin number 10 was available ($83/night) after some visitors had cancelled during what is one of the most popular times of year. The rear window overlooks it own feeding station and hummer feeder with a backdrop of a flowing creek - apparently the first time water had flowed all year. The lodge also has a wildlife area with a public viewing area for non-guests. There are many feeders here, though not as close as those at the cabin windows. Within a few minutes of viewing from the comfort of our cabin we observed Acorn Woodpecker (3), House Finch (4), Black-chinned Hummingbird, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Broad-billed Hummingbird, Magnificent Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, White-breasted Nuthatch and several Arizona Gray Squirrels. With the initial excitement of watching hummers buzzing everywhere, we then realised we had forgotten about the car. Oh, yes, where we had parked it...back down the hill at the picnic spot. Just after four in the afternoon, as we approaced the wash, a huge female Wild Turkey lumbered over the road with six chicks in tow!

After dinner, I checked out the 'wildlife area' at the lodge from 1845h: Mexican Jay (3), House Finch (4), Lesser Goldfinch (5), White-breasted Nuthatch (4+), Acorn Woodpecker (4+), Black-chinned Hummingbird (the most abundant species), Broad-billed Hummingbird, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Magnificent Hummingbird, Cooper's Hawk, Brown-crested Flycatcher and an immature male Indigo Bunting.

Day 4
Tuesday 1 August 2006
Madera Canyon, Santa Rita Mountains
Very warm & blue skies

SANTA RITA LODGE, MADERA CANYON, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Awoke at 0615h and barely moving a muscle, I squinted at the window to find the hummingbirds were already up and feeding outside the cabin. Species noted: Black-chinned Hummingbird, Magnificent Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Broad-billed Hummingbird, House Finch, Bridled Titmouse, Arizona Gray Squirrel, White-breasted Nuthatch, House Wren singing, Mexican Jay (gang of six). Then got out of bed, made breakfast, before heading higher up into the canyon to look for a major target - Aztec Thrush! Creek still flowing strongly this morning

VAULT MINE TRAIL > AGUA CALIENTE SADDLE, MADERA CANYON, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
At the start of this trail we met an early birder on his way back down after seeing two Aztec Thrushes. These rare stragglers from Mexico had been present for a week or two with up to nine present. I knew this as I had joined the extremely helpful Arizona-New Mexico Listserve e-mail group a couple of months earlier so we were hoping at least some birds would stick around. This species is high on the most-wanted lists of the top North American birders and higher than a Mourning Dove on my Arizona wishlist. After a short (hurried) walk up the Vault Mine trail we found a small group observing an Aztec Thrush in a choke cherry tree thereby eliminating all skill and effort in finding it for ourselves (i.e. twitching). What a great bird - even if just sat there resting, full of cherries! Better still were two Elegant Trogons (this years young) just a short walk away and it was possible to see both these species from the same spot. Both were rather obscured and we didn't feel the need to approach any closer. Feeling good, we carried on up the trail to find some good birds for ourselves. Highlights were Red-faced Warbler, Hepatic Tanager, Painted Redstart (3) and no less than three pairs of Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers including a pair feeding young at a nest hole. Species noted: Cordilleran Flycatcher, Hutton's Vireo, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Acorn Woodpecker, White-breasted Nuthatch, Mexican Jay (several groups), Western Wood-Pewee (adults feeding fledged juvs), Raven (croaking overhead), Plumbeous Vireo, Black-headed Grosbeak, Western Tanager, Grace's Warbler. Also plenty of Pipevine Swallowtails (Battus philenor) and Arizona Gray Squirrels.

SANTA RITA LODGE, MADERA CANYON, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Back at the lodge we checked in for another night. A Bewick's Wren was noisely making its way through some scrub near our cabin.

PROCTOR PARKING AREA, MADERA CANYON, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Lower down on the way out of the canyon, I checked this area in the evening. The area has a transitional habitat linking grassland and thornscrub to the forested slopes of the Santa Ritas. It was a perfect evening, still, nice light and plenty of bird activity. There is a large, sheltered viewing platform here overlooking the desert scrub. A male Varied Bunting was singing close on an Ocotillo which appeared to be a favour shrub for other songsters. Species noted: Hooded Oriole, White-throated Swift, Abert's Towhee, Blue Grosbeak, Say's Phoebe, Verdin, Ash-throated Flycatcher, Pyrrhuloxia, Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Canyon Towhee, Lesser Goldfinch, Western Kingbird, Northern Cardinal. Several lizards in the area, one identified as a Desert Grassland Whiptail (Cnemidophorus uniparens). Couple of Desert Cottontails and a Antelope Jackrabbit (Lepus alleni) hopping around on the road. Nice sunset to end the day.

Day 5
Wednesday 2 August 2006
Madera Canyon > Florida Wash > Nogales Sewage Ponds > Kino Springs > Patagonia Lake
Hot & blue skies

SANTA RITA LODGE, MADERA CANYON, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Watching the feeding station and hummer feeder this morning: Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Magnificent Hummingbird, Blue-throated Hummingbird, Broad-billed Hummingbird,  Anna's Hummingbird, Mourning Dove, House Finch, Arizona Gray Squirrel (5+), and a Montenzuma Quail flew down Madera Creek.

SANTA RITA LODGE, WILDLIFE AREA
Acorn Woodpecker (6+), Mexican Jay (4+), Lesser Goldfinch (2), Bridled Titmouse, Mourning Dove, House Finch and the usual hummers.

MADERA CANYON ROAD, SANTA RITA MOUNTAINS
Observations around the road 406 entrance (with Private No Tresspassing sign). Some sort of rattlesnake slipped off the road and into the vegetation. Several Black-throated Sparrows singing. Western Kingbirds on the the wires. Rufous-crowned Sparrow (1) found. Turkey Vulture (2) soaring overhead. Many sparrows singing as if it was a northern temperate spring. Difficult to see though but Botteri's Sparrow (2) and a Cassin's Sparrow observed through the 'scope. the latter song-flighting like a Skylark. Many lizards and off course, Mourning Doves.

FLORIDA WASH, MADERA CANYON ROAD
Searched the thornscrub in this area, finding: Phainopepla (5), Northern Beardless-Tyrannulet (1), Verdin (4), Swainson's Hawk (1), Turkey Vulture, Rufous-crowned Sparrow (1), Botteri's Sparrow (singing male on the slope above the dip to 'bridge no.3'), Cardinal/Pyrrhuloxia singing, Cooper's Hawk (1), Canyon Towhee (1), Black-tailed Gnatcatcher (2), and eight Mourning Doves flew south.

NOGALES SEWAGE PONDS
Closed. Apparently not open to birders anymore. Peering through the large fence, it was difficult to view any of the standing water but we observed a single Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Kildeer (3), Raven (9+), Barn Swallow (10+) and a pair of Great-tailed Grackles.

KINO SPRINGS ROAD
Scrubby cliff on the right immediately after the turnoff: Rock Wren singing from the large outcrop above the construction yard. Rock Squirrel (1). Turkey Vulture and Barn Swallow overhead. A Gray Hawk flew past, mobbed by two Western Kingbirds.

KINO SPRINGS 1st pond
Rushy pond surrounded by scrub and a few cotton trees. Red-winged Blackbird (1), Northern Flicker (2), Indigo Bunting (3) bathing, Barn Swallow (2), Western Kingbird (1), Canyon Towhee (1) bathing, Black Phoebe (2), Lesser Goldfinch (4), Great Blue Heron (3 imm) catching carp-like fish and an old nest up in the mature trees, American Coot (ad + juv) chased off one the herons, Turkey Vulture and a Summer Tanager (m).

KINO SPRINGS GOLF RESORT
We asked permission at the club house (as recommended in the Taylor guide) before birding around the main pond outside. Calling incessantly while we were there was a Gray Hawk in the trees on the island. Tropical Kingbird flycatching. American Coot (27). Bronzed Cowbird (3) including a male displaying to individual Eurasian Starling, part of a flock of around 20 on one of the greens. Numerous dragonflies of which the Common Green Darner (Anax junius) was identified. Pied-billed Grebe (2), Cassin's Kingbird, Northern Mockingbird, Gilded Flicker, Song Sparrow, Great Blue Heron, Zone-tailed Hawk, Ruddy Duck (1m/2ff), House Wren, Great-tailed Grackle (6), Vermillion Flycatcher (m), Mourning Dove and Lesser Goldfinch. Hirundines gathering on the wires: Cliff Swallow (9), Barn Swallow (23) and Northern Rough-winged Swallow (6). Thunder sounding in nearby mountains.

PATAGONIA LAKE
Was fairly quiet here - not too many fishers. Masses of dragonflies. Great-tailed Grackles abundant. $15 to camp here including showers. Walked the short trail (start of the Sonoita Creek Trail) from the south-eastern end of the lake which mainly afforded poor views over the 'no-wake area' of water. Looked for the Black-capped Gnatcatchers which had been reported here. Species noted: Double-crested Cormorant (1 imm), 'Mexican' Mallard (30+), Black-throated Sparrow (several singing), Common Yellowthroat (several singing from lakeside vegetation), Warbling Vireo, Green Heron (3), Virginia Rail, Lucy's Warbler (2), Pied-billed Grebe, American Coot (20+), Turkey Vulture, Cassin's Kingbird, Lazuli Bunting (singing m), Brown-headed Cowbird (6+), Barn Swallow (20), Cliff Swallow (10+), and Lesser Goldfinch. After dark, a distant electrical storm was progressing over the mountains.

Day 6
Thursday 3 August 2006
Patagonia Lake > Patagonia Roadside Rest > Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Reserve > Patons' Yard > Sonoita
Warm, cloudy & heavy afternoon rain

PATAGONIA LAKE 0540h
Bullfrogs singing. Still no Neotropic Cormorants - just the single Double-crested. Eventually found the family of Black-capped Gnatcatchers in the second ravine/wash area where mesquite scrub slopes down to the lake edge. Species noted: Black-bellied Whistling Duck (3), Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Blue Heron (4), Green Heron (1), Black Phoebe, 'Mexican' Mallard, American Coot, White-winged Dove, Common Yellowthroat, Pied-billed Grebe (2), Black-chinned Hummingbird, Cinnamon Teal (1), Red-winged Blackbird (7), Barn Swallow (5) mobbing Great Blue Heron, Phyrrhuloxia, Blue Grosbeak, American Kestrel (2), Great-tailed Grackles (common), and Bewick's Wren.

PATAGONIA ROASIDE REST 0830h
We stopped at this famous site for the Rose-throated Becards. Crossed the road to search the riverine woodland along Sonoita Creek which is fairly narrow as the other side is private property. No sign and no vocalisations heard either. Species noted: Thick-billed Kingbird (5 inc brood), Bullock's Oriole, Western Tanager (m), White-winged Dove, Black-headed Grosbeak (pr), Cassin's Kingbird, Canyon Wren and Rock Squirrel on the outcrop above the north end, Northern Flicker, Summer Tanager (pr), Lesser Goldfinch, Bewick's Wren, Turkey Vulture (3), and Phainopepla. We drove on towards the town of Patagonia where we were stopped at a roadblock by the Border Patrol police. All very civil and friendly - something Spain's Guardia Civil could try.

PATAGONIA-SONOITA CREEK RESERVE 1150h
Black Phoebe at a puddle near the entrance, Lazuli Bunting (m) in 'strimmed' field at woodland edge opposite the reserve, White-tailed Deer (Odocoileus virginianus), Cassin's Kingbird, Yellow Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, Phainopepla, Yellow-breasted Chat, Arizona Gray Squirrel, House Finch, Brown-headed Cowbird, Barn Swallow, Western Kingbird, Northern Flicker, Rufous-crowned Sparrow, Vermillion Flycatcher, Black-headed Grosbeak, Bridled Titmouse, and Lark Sparrow. Before we even had time to exlpore the Creek proper, a downpour put paid to further plans. Returned to the visitor centre (closed, no staff there) and watched the hummers at the feeders. The rain didn't ease so we headed back to Patagonia in case the ford/wash there this side of the town became too high.

THE PATONS' YARD 1505h
Good numbers of hummers. Species noted: Black-chinned Hummingbird, Broad-billed Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Rufous Hummingbird, Anna's Hummingbird & Costa's Hummingbird. House Finch (10+), Black-headed Grosbeak (2), Yellow-breasted Chat (1), Lesser Goldfinch (5+), White-winged Dove (10+), Gray Hawk (1), Brown-headed Cowbird (10+), House Sparrow (20+), Blue Grosbeak (2), Northern Cardinal (m), Inca Dove (2), Gambel's Quail (5), Common Ground-Dove (1), Abert's Towhee (1), Ladder-backed Woodpecker (2), Song Sparrow (1), 'Red-shafted' Northern Flicker (pr), and Great-tailed Grackles.

PATAGONIA ROADSIDE REST 0830h
We returned here and made another attemp to locate a Rose-throated Becard. Three White-faced Ibis flew overhead, followed later by five Black-bellied Whistling Ducks, two Turkey Vultures and a single Black Vulture soaring, single Great Blue Heron passed overhead, Yellow-billed Cuckoo found searching for the supposedly obvious becard nests. Also a Summer Tanager and a White-winged Dove.

SONOITA
Watched the grasslands from the roadside to the east of the town. Eastern Meadowlarks common. Three Grasshopper Sparrows heard singing with one giving fairly good 'scope views. Flock of eight Chihuahuan Ravens. Song Sparrow singing. Red-tailed Hawk overhead and a Say's Phoebe. Spectacular sunset over the plain.

SIERRA VISTA
Stayed the night here where we saw some Lesser Nighthawks catching insects under street lamps just off one of the main streets.

Day 7
Friday 4 August 2006
Carr Canyon, Huachuca Mountains > Beatty's Ranch, Miller Canyon > Bisbee > Douglas > Portal
Warm, overcast and light rain most of the day

THE REEF > COMFORT SPRING, CARR CANYON, HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS
Walked the trail from 0900h. Northern Flicker, Band-tailed Pigeon, Yellow-eyed Junco, Olive Warbler, Spotted Towhee, American Robin, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Western Wood-Pewee, Buff-breasted Flycatcher, Greater Pewee, Lesser Goldfinch, Virginia's Warbler, Hummer sp zipped past, Townsend's Warbler and Cordilleran Flycatcher.

REEF TOWNSITE CAMPSITE, HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS
Steller's Jay (3), Northern Flicker (3), Spotted Towhee (4) feeding with charateristic 'scratch' technique on the forest floor, Acorn Woodpecker (3), Hairy Woodpecker(1), Western Wood-Pewee, Arizona Gray Squirrels abundant, Common Raven (1), Turkey Vulture, Yellow-rumped Warbler (3), Yellow-eyed Junco (1), American Robin, Black-headed Grosbeak (pr), Black-throated Gray Warbler, and a Sharp-shinned Hawk.

HILLSIDE ABOVE REEF TOWNSITE CAMPSITE, HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS
A few Violet-green Swallows and White-throated Swifts, Red-tailed Hawk (1), Turkey Vulture (3), and Common Raven (2).

BEATTY'S RANCH, MILLER CANYON, HUACHUCA MOUNTAINS
The rain was heavy at times but hummer numbers remained high. The Beattys reckon around 1000 hummers are feeding here during the course of a day judging by the quantity of sugar water they have prepare. There is a public viewing area on the track outside and for $5/person you can visit a controlled access site which is even better. Fantastic place, especially the CAS site. Observed 11 species: Black-chinned Hummingbird, Rufous Hummingbird, White-eared Hummingbird (two at once), Magnificent Hummingbird (three at once), Broad-billed Hummingbird, Violet-crowned Hummingbird, Blue-throated Hummingbird, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Anna's Hummingbird, Costa's Hummingbird, and a single brief Berylline Hummingbird at the public viewpoint.

DRIVE FROM SIERRA VISTA > BISBEE
Lesser Nighthawk (3), Swainson's Hawk (1) and Common Raven (2).

DRIVE FROM BISBEE > DOUGLAS
Loggerhead Shrike (3), Northern Mockingbird (1), and several Eastern Meadowlarks and Great-tailed Grackles.

DRIVE FROM DOUGLAS > PORTAL
Northern Harrier flying along side the car. Rain started as it got dark. Arrived at Portal Peak Lodge in the dark and heavy rain where we decided to stay the night ($95) rather than camp.

Day 8
Saturday 5 August 2006
Portal Peak Lodge > Stateline Road > Sulphur Canyon Road > Rodeo > Chiricahua Mountains
Very warm & blue skies

PORTAL PEAK LODGE, PORTAL
Woke up to a clear, blue sky day. Several hummingbird feeders around the lodge. The first one I looked at this morning was a male Calliope Hummingbird. Also several Black-chinned, Broad-tailed and Rufous Hummingbirds.

BIG THICKET/FOOTHILLS ROAD, PORTAL
The ford/wash looked just too deep and fast to cross to get to Dave Jasper's property so we birded further back along the road. Walked down Canada Lane as far as Prairie Road, observing birds in the mequite scrub. Verdin (5+), Northern Bearless Tyrannulet (2), brief views of a Crissal Thrasher on the fence, several Gambel's Quails calling from bush tops, Cactus Wren (3), Pyrrhuloxia (3), White-winged Dove (3), Bell's Vireo (1), Canyon Towhee (2). Also Cloudless Sulphur and Orange Sulphur butterflies.

PORTAL ROAD
Greater Roadrunner (2), Gambel's Quail, Western Kingbird, White-winged Dove, and Black-throated Sparrow.

STATELINE ROAD, NEW MEXICO/ARIZONA BORDER
Four mile long track through Chihuahuan desert scrub. We searched along here for thrashers. Turkey Vulture (5), Cassin's Kingbird, Western Kingbird, Cactus Wren at the nest, Barn Swallow, Scaled Quail (pr) on left near Gin Road junction, Blue Grosbeak, and another Scaled Quail on perched on a roadside post.

  View to the Chiricahua Mountains · New Mexico-Arizona border · Chihuahuan Desert

SULPHUR CANYON ROAD
Lark Sparrow (20+), Greater Roadrunner (2) at the side of the track, White-winged Dove (2), Western Kingbird, and Turkey Vulture (5).

WILLOW TANK
This reservoir area did have water but no birds.

SULPHUR CANYON ROAD > WRANGLER ROAD JUNCTION
Crissal Thrasher at Sulphur Draw. More Western Kingbirds. Loggerhead Shrike hunting the sparse, open flats. Cassin's and Black-throated Sparrows singing.

  Rattlesnake Canyon Road · Agave · Agave Flowerheads

RODEO DUMP, NEW MEXICO
Closed. Sign reads 'Open Tue/Thu 8-3, Sat 8-12'. It is small enough to see the area anyway but bird activity was low by the time we arrived. No thrashers. Chihuahuan Raven (4), Lark Sparrow (3), Black-throated Sparrow (1), Western Kingbird (1), Monarchs and dragonflies common.

STATELINE ROAD nr GIN ROAD JUNCTION
Northern Mockingbird with food for young, Eastern Meadowlark, Cassin's Sparrow (3 song-flighting mm), Turkey Vulture overhead, Black-throated Sparrow (2 singing mm), Cliff Swallow (2), and another Chihuahuan Raven.

GIN ROAD
The road was blocked half way along by a flood. Northern Mockingbird (3), Cassin's Kingbird (2), Western Kingbird (4) and Chihuahuan Raven (2).

BACK ON STATELINE ROAD
Drive to Rodeo (the long way round). Near the 'Mile 1' post, a superb male Painted Bunting in a roadside bush, then later feeding in the grassland. Drove on, and just past the mile marker, a thrasher flew up onto an overturned dead bush, a few metres from the fenceline. Got the 'scope on it. At last, a Bendire's Thrasher! At 1500h, we had spent a lot of time on this species so we headed to Rodeo for some food. No restaurants, but the women in the gas station/general made us a pizza (very good) in 35 minutes (I though this was the country that invented fast food?). Still it was good to relax in this back-of-beyond town. Several Eurasian Collared Doves around. Great-tailed Grackle, House Sparrow, Barn Swallow, Mourning Dove, Western Kingbird and Black-throated Sparrows singing. Petrol/gas was about $3/gallon - a dollar more than much of Arizona!

  Chiricahua Mountains · The 2-second tent · Into the Chiricahuas

HERB MARTYR CAMPGROUND - ASH SPRING, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Red-faced Warbler (1), Bridled Titmouse (4), Arizona Woodpecker (2), Greater Pewee (2) and a Black-throated Gray Warbler.

Day 9
Sunday 6 August 2006
Herb Martyr Campground, Chiricahua Mountains > Silver Creek > Paradise > Barfoot Junction
Warm, partly cloudy, & heavy evening rain

HERB MARTYR CAMPGROUND, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Checked the area around the stream crossing. Mexican Chickadee calling from the other side. Bridled Titmouse (3-4), Black-throated Gray Warbler (2), Virginia's Warbler. American Robin, Plumbeous Vireo, Hepatic Tanager (2), Hermit Warbler,  small flock of Pine Siskins flew over, Turkey Vulture, Golden Eagle overhead and calling, Magnificent Hummingbird, Dusky-capped Flycatcher (2) flycatching along track/wood edge. Lizard sp photographed near the tent.

AMHM SOUTHWESTERN RESEARCH STATION, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
An Apache Fox Squirrel sp mobbed by six Acorn Woodpeckers. Apparently this mammal is endemic to the Chiricahuas. At the hummer feeders: Blue-throated Hummingbird (four at once), Rufous Hummingbird, and Magnificent Hummingbird (two at once). Black Poebe at the stream, American Robin (2), Say's Phoebe (2) and Lesser Goldfinch.

NO.4 CAVE CREEK ROAD, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Just downhill from the research station, there are some feeders along the road at the 'Barrett' property. Acorn Woodpecker (8+), Yellow-eyed Junco (1), White-breasted Nuthatch (2), White-tailed Deer (3) and a Chipmunk sp. There are three model/decoy trogons fixed in a tree here. I hit the brake and instantly realiased this but I have since heard that someone actually 'ticked' these! Anyway, a Blue-throated Hummingbird was buzzing the red-painted breast of one them - also fooled, but in this case into thinking a rich nectar source was to be had.

SILVER CREEK ROAD, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Stopped c1.5 miles up this road from the junction. Scott's Oriole, Rufous-crowned Sparrow, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Canyon Towhee, Cactus Wren, Chipping Sparrow, Cassin's Kingbird, Western Scrub-Jay, and Violet-green Swallow (4).

SILVER CREEK, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Took a track to the left to the small car park with the large, single oak. Scaled Quail (2), Western Scrub-Jay (2-3), Cactus Wren, Crissal Thrasher, Violet-green Swallow (18+), Canyon Towhee, Rock Wren, Turkey Vulture, Cooper's Hawk perched in an oak, Bridled Titmouse (2) and Hutton's Vireo (1).

  Bat at hummer feeder, George Walker House · Agave, Chiricahua Mountains · View from Chiricahua Mtns

THE DRIVE TO PARADISE, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Lark Sparrow (flock of 4)

PARADISE CEMETERY, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Explored the surrounding juniper slope for Juniper Titmouse but the area was quiet. Western Kingbird (2), Chipping Sparrow (3-4), Zone-tailed Hawk overhead, and a Common Raven.

THE GEORGE WALKER HOUSE, PARADISE, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS | www.thegeorgewalkerhouse.com |
Juniper Titmouse (1), White-breasted Nuthatch, Hooded Oriole, Magnificent Hummingbird, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Blue-throated Hummingbird, Mexican Jay, House Finch, Bewick's Wren, Bridled Titmouse, Acorn Woodpecker, Black-headed Grosbeak, Calliope Hummingbird, and Lesser Goldfinch.

DRIVE FROM EAST TURKEY CREEK > BARFOOT JUNCTION, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Spectacular views! After a week, we finally found Wrentit! A roving flock of at least 19 Bushtits came though some roadside scrub with several other species in tow: Black-throated Gray Warbler, Hutton's Vireo, Black-tailed Gnatcatcher. Rufous Hummingbird at Agave flowers. Eventually reached some high altitude coniferous forest but a heavy downpour came on before we found much: Brown Creeper, Red-breasted Nuthatch, and Pygmy Nuthatch at Barfoot Park.

Day 10
Monday 7 August 2006
The George Walker House, Paradise > Silver Creek Road > Wilcox Playa > Saguaro National Park
Very warm & cloudy, clearing later

THE GEORGE WALKER HOUSE, PARADISE, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Checked the hummer feeder outside the kitchen window after waking up - three Magnificent Hummingbirds on the feeder together at one time! Watched the feeding station in the yard for a while before departing: Mexican Jay, Lesser Goldfinch, Magnificent Hummingbird, Black-chinned Hummingbird, Black-headed Grosbeak, Acorn Woodpecker, Northern Flicker, Bridled Titmouse, Rufous Humminbird, House Finch, Calliope Hummingbird, Bewick's Wren, Mourning Dove, and a Blue-throated Hummingbird. No appearances of the Juniper Titmouse though. Disturbed a Montezuma Quail from the grass beside the car, just outside the guest house.

SILVER CREEK ROAD, CHIRICAHUA MOUNTAINS
Stopped again for sparrows on the way down. Found several Chipping Sparrows, Black-throated Sparrows and a single Black-chinned Sparrow. Golden Eagle soaring overhead and calling. Montezuma Quail (2), White-throated Swift and Violet Green Swallows.

PORTAL - ROAD ENTRANCE
Greater Roadrunner crossing the interstate, Chihuahuan Raven (2), Western Kingbird and Turkey Vulture noted.

DRIVE TO WILCOX AREA
Passing through some quite arid areas we observed several Desert Bighorn Sheep (Ovis canadensis) on rocky outcrops.

LAKE COCHISE & GOLF COURSE POND, WILCOX
Great lake for waders (shorebirds) although a bit smelly with many mosquitos! Surrounded by vast grassy plains with views to the 'sky islands' where some spectacular thunderstorms were progressing over the peaks. The water level was high but there was also plenty of exposed mud on the far southern shoreline, opposite the entrance road. Counts: Wilson's Phalarope (c180), American Avocet (24), Black-necked Stilt (32), Long-billed Dowitcher (5), Black Tern (7), Eared Grebe (2), Greater Yellowlegs (1), Lesser Yellowlegs (2+), Spotted Sandpiper (2), Kildeer (10+), Western Sandpiper (20+), Least Sandpiper (7+), Pectoral Sandpiper (3), Redhead (1), Baird's Sandpiper (1), Dunlin (2), Tree Swallow (4), White-faced Ibis (1), Horned Lark (1), Great Blue Heron (10+), Pied-billed Grebe (1), Great-tailed Grackle (10+), Swainson's Hawk (1), Ruddy Duck (30+), Barn Swallow (10+), Bank Swallow (2), Cliff Swallow (10+), Black-crowned Night Heron (imm), Gambel's Quail (2), Western Kingbird, American Coot (6+), Chihuahuan Raven (2), Cassin's Kingbird and a Common Yellowthroat singing.

GILBERT RAY CAMPGROUND, SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK, SONORA DESERT
We returned here for a spectacular sunset to end the day. Lesser Nighthawk, Cactus Wren, Verdin, Curve-billed Thrasher, Northern Cardinal, Purple Martin, Mourning Dove, House Finch, Gambel's Quail, and a Gila Woodpecker.

Day 11
Tuesday 8 August 2006
Saguaro National Park > Tucson > Mount Lemmon > Rose Canyon, Santa Catalina Mountains
Warm & blue skies, cool at altitude, very heavy rain late evening

GILBERT RAY CAMPGROUND, SAGUARO NATIONAL PARK, SONORAN DESERT
A group of six Gambel's Quails crossed the track near our tent, Purple Martin (2) overhead. Gilded Flicker at nest hole in Saguaro Cactus. Also Verdin, Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Gila Woodpecker, Cactus Wren, Pyrrhuloxia, Black-throated Sparrow, Mourning Dove, Turkey Vulture and House Finch.

TUCSON
A Cooper's Hawk flew over busy traffic on Grant Road.

DRIVE UP INTO THE SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS
Mexican Jay over the road. Rock Squirrel. Acorn Woodpecker (2). Zone-tailed Hawk soaring over the ski area.

SUMMIT, MOUNT LEMMON, SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS
Drove the 1.7 miles from the ski station on the rough track to the top. At least 12 Yellow-eyed Juncos found. Steller's Jay (4), Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Hairy Woodpecker, male American Robin collecting food for young, White-tailed Deer, and Cliff Chipmunk. The forest here was quiet until a large, mixed-species flock was encountered: Mountain Chickadee, Brown Creeper, Pygmy Nuthatch, Black-throated Gray Warbler, Hermit Warbler, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Yellow-eyed Junco, Grace's Warbler, Red-faced Warbler, Cordilleran Flycatcher, Northern Flicker (2), and Pine Siskin.

SKI LIFT AREA, MOUNT LEMMON, SANTA CATALINA MOUNTAINS
Zone-tailed Hawk still present along a Turkey Vulture which it mimics. Red-tailed Hawk perched then soaring. Steller's Jay (2). Yellow-eyed Junco (4). Four hummer feeders at the closed restaurant - only one filled with sugar-water which was attracting: Magnificent Hummingbird (two at once), Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Rufous Hummingbird and Calliope Hummingbird.

BEAR WALLOW ROAD, SANTA CATALINAS
Nice spruce and pine forest here. Yellow-eyed Junco (4), Northern Flicker (ad + 2 juvs), Mountain Chickadee (abundant), Steller's Jay (group of c10), Pygmy Nuthatch (10+ in loose flock), Golden-crowned Kinglet (2), Red-breasted Nuthatch (2), Hairy Woodpecker (3), White-breasted Nuthatch (2), American Robin (1), Goshawk perched in a dead pine, and a Red-tailed Hawk passed over causing alarm amongst the Steller's Jays.

ROSE CANYON LAKE, SANTA CATALINAS
Common Black-Hawk fishing for amphibians/fish where the stream flows into the lake. Canyon Wren (2 singing mm), Mallard (2), Hummer sp zipped past, Hairy Woodpecker, loads of Cliff Chipmunks, large numbers of Common Green Darners. The Common Black-Hawk was dsiturbed by noisy kids but returned about an hour later where it watched th water from an overhanging tree. Thunder rolled in. Heavy rain and lightning from 2100-0000h.