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17-27 June 2019

Observers: F. Simpson

Introduction

I last visited this region in 2003 but now, with good sound recording gear, I wanted to return to hear and sound record all the northern songbirds and waders again. Two of the most attractive aspects for the earbirder this far north are the 24 hours of daylight at this time of year and the almost non-existent background anthropogenic noise pollution in most areas. Of course, the wind on the Varanger peninsula is one drawback. This time I flew to Ivalo in Lapland (Lappi/Sápmi), then headed to the Pasvik valley (Pasvikdalen) via Lake Inari (Inarijärvi), then on to the Varanger peninsula.

Highlights

Bean Goose, Velvet Scoter, King Eider, Long-tailed Duck, Smew, Willow Grouse, Western Capercaillie, Black-throated Diver, Red-throated Diver, White-tailed Eagle, Osprey, Rough-legged Buzzard, Eurasian Crane, Dotterel, Temminck's Stint, Spotted Redshank, Bar-tailed Godwit, Jack Snipe, Red-necked Phalarope, Arctic Skua, Long-tailed Skua, Arctic Tern, Brunnich's Guillemot, Puffin, Great Grey Owl, Three-toed Woodpecker, Horned Lark, Red-throated Pipit, Grey-headed Wagtail, Waxwing, Bluethroat, Arctic Warbler, Siberian Tit, Siberian Jay, Brambling, Arctic Redpoll, Pine Grosbeak, Parrot Crossbill, Little Bunting, Lapland Bunting, Snow Bunting.

Itinerary

Day 01       17/06/19     London Heathrow > Helsinki > Ivalo
Day 02       18/06/19     Ivalo > Kuttura > Ivalo > Väylä
Day 03       19/06/19     Väylä > Sevettijärvi > Kirakkajärvi > Neiden > Kirkenes > Nyrud, Øvre Pasvik
Day 04       20/06/19     Øvre Pasvik
Day 05       21/06/19     Øvre Pasvik > Skogfoss > Skrøytnes > Tana Bru > Gednje
Day 06       22/06/19     Gednje > Stjernevatnet > Tørrvann > Magistervatnet
Day 07       23/06/19     Magistervatnet > Båtsfjordfjellet > Nesseby > Vestre Jakobselv
Day 08       24/06/19     Vestre Jakobselv > Ekkerøy > Vadøya > Nesseby > Vestre Jakobselv
Day 09       25/06/19     Vestre Jakobselv > Vardø > Hornøya > Hamningberg > Barvikmyra > Kibymyra
Day 10       26/06/19     Kibymyra > Utsjoki > Haapalahto > Ivalo

Day 11       27/06/19     Ivalo > Kittila > Helsinki > London Heathrow

Day 1                                                                                                                              
Monday 17 June 2019
London Heathrow > Helsinki, Finland > Ivalo, Lapland
Ivalo: blue sky, 21°C, almost no wind

Highlights
Ruff, Woodcock, Goldeneye, Fieldfare, Redwing, Cuckoo, Whimbrel.

London Heathrow > Helsinki > Ivalo
Almost missed my connection in Helsinki (Hooded Crow on airfield) as the Finnair plane sat on the runway for 45 minutes, waiting on steps appearing. Ran like crazy through the terminal past the Moomin and Christmas shops for the Ivalo departure. Soon flying over endless forests and lakes.  As the plane landed at Ivalo I picked out a Ruff flying low over the airfield. Two Swallows and two House Martins around the terminal building - these were the only hirundines seen on the whole trip north from here to Norway. Minutes after leaving the airport a Goldeneye flew over the road. Blue skies and 21°C at 18:30. Headed to the Naverniemic campsite on the south side of Ivalo, pitched the tent, then on to Ivalo to stock on supplies (camping gas, water, food). Unlike like my last trip, I couldn't find Camping Gaz and after four outlets I went for the Finnish Tarmo canisters after buying a new stove top. Two Woodcock were chasing each other in broad daylight over the K-Supermarket and more were seen roding over the E75. House Sparrows were also noted in town. It finally felt great to have escaped the chaos of London and SE England.

Naverniemic campsite [68° 38' 36.9" N 27° 31' 23.1" E]
Back at the campsite I went to sleep at 23:00 as a Woodcock was roding in full daylight. The song/advertising call of the Woodcock is composed of two completely different vocalisations: one a muffled, deep frog-like croaking at 0.73-1.4 kHZ, the other a much louder, sharp chi-sik element spanning 3.7-12.1 kHz. A distant Whimbrel was displaying over a distant bog. Also noted Redwing, Fieldfare, Willow Warbler, Cuckoo, White Wagtail, Chaffinch, Great Tit, Wood Pigeon and Magpie.

Ivalo River (Ivalojoki), Lapland, Finland

Campsite, Ivalo River (Ivalojoki), Lapland, Finland

Day 2                                                                                                                              
Tuesday 18 June 2019
Ivalo > Köysivaara > Kuttura > Ivalo > Välyä
Blue sky, clouding over later

Highlights
Siberian Jay, Siberian Tit, Pine Grosbeak, Waxwing, Pied Flycatcher, Redstart, Common Crossbill, Common Redpoll, Wood Sandpiper, Red-breasted Merganser, Black-throated Diver, Whooper Swan.

Naverniemic campsite [68° 38' 36.9" N  27° 31' 23.1" E]
Woke at 09:15 (catch-up rest was needed after departing at 05:00 the previous morning). Blue sky and already quite warm. Campsite set in birch parkland, surrounded by birch and pine forest. Crossbills were passing over and a Brambling was singing from the other side of the river - the single, repeated buzz carrying surprisingly far.

Birch and Spruce Forest on the road to Kuttura, Lapland, Finland

Road to Kuttura 9694
Headed south of Ivalo and took road 9694 (north of Kakslauttanen) west towards Kuttura, through continuous birch, pine and spruce forest. After a few kilometres there was virtually no background noise, allowing some nice clear recordings.

Singing Brambling and Willow Warbler were numerous and Waxwings were regularly encountered along the unsurfaced road. Also noted: Common Redpoll, Spotted Flycatcher, Redwing, Fieldfare, Crossbill, Pied Flycatcher, Siskin, Raven, Northern Wheatear, Blue Tit and White Wagtail. I stopped to record one of the many Bramblings in an area where few others birds were singing. The song is composed of a regularly repeated single 0.8 second nasal buzz spanning 2.3 to 4.9 kHz. The territorial song from a Redwing in ancient spruce forest was recorded. This individual's song was composed of strophes of up to eight seconds, with two distinct parts: initial loud, flutey phrases at 2.0-4.8 kHz, followed by extensive, thinner-souding, quieter twittering. Listening to other Redwings as I continued north revealed much variation between individuals.

Køysivaara, c10 Km east of Kuttura
Stopped here and spent several hours on the trails through the old growth forest and edge of the bog. Found several of the 'northern' birds but, as is typical, not in any great numbers. A male Pine Grosbeak, a family party of Siberian Jays and two adult Siberian Tits were the highlights. Common Crossbills were regularly overhead and a Parrot Crossbill was drinking from a large puddle in the track. Displaying Whimbrel and Wood Sandpiper were heard distantly over the bog. Also seen or heard: Siskin, Common Redpoll, Redstart, Redwing, Fieldfare, Willow Warbler, Raven and Mistle Thrush.

Road east from Kuttura 9694
River at 68° 23' 28.7" N  26° 57' 41.2" E. A brief stop here found a female Red-breated Merganser, Waxwings, a pair of White Wagtails, and singing Willow Warblers.

Lapland Flora, Finland

Ivalo [68° 40' 34.96" N  27° 38' 05.50" E]
Late in the evening I stopped on the northeast side of Ivalo, off road 91 to Murmansk to listen for Little Buntings in the pine bogs. Conditions weren't great due to thick cloud and rain pushing in. None heard or seen. Species noted included Wood Sandpiper, Waxwing, Goldeneye, Brambling, Chaffinch, Redwing, Willow Warbler and Song Thrush.

Myössäjärvi [68° 49' 00.2" N  27° 19' 30.6" E]
Headed north towards Inari on the E75. Rain was quite heavy by now but stopped at this lake to watch a pair of Black-throated Divers close to the road. Also a pair of Common Gulls. Continuing on, further pairs of Black-throated Diver and Whooper Swans were noted.

Ala-Sieksijärvi, Väylä, Inarijärvi [69° 04' 20.0" N  27° 29' 22.2" E]
Stopped here just before midnight and slept in the car. Two Reed Buntings were singing from the willow/birch marsh on the west side of the road. Background noise, barring a few rain drops, was non-existant allowing a nice, clear audio recording to be made. More distantly a Snipe was chipping/yikkering and Redwing, Great Tit and Song Thrush were singing. A few Common Redpolls flew over.

Väylä, Inarijärvi, Lapland, Finland

Day 3
Wednesday 19 June 2019
Väylä > Sevettijärvi > Kirakkajärvi > Neiden > Kirkenes > Nyrud, Øvre Pasvik
Rain early, clearing later

Highlights
Siberian Tit, Eurasian Crane, Velvet Scoter, Black-throated Diver, Bluethroat, Rough-legged Buzzard, Arctic Warbler, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Red-throated Diver, Waxwing.

Väylä, Inarijärvi [69° 04' 20.0" N  27° 29' 22.2" E]
Woke up at 07:00 to heavy rain. A male Goldeneye was on the lake and a Raven flew over. Continued along the west side of Inarijärvi for 45 miles to Sevettijärvi.

Sevettijärvi [69° 30' 34.0" N  28° 35' 48.0" E]
Stopped here for breakfast and coffee and to boil some water for the flask (spiced ginger tea) for the day ahead. Explored the pines around the small lake at the Skolt Sami museum and found a pair of Siberian Tit nesting. At least three male Pied Flycatchers were singing and a pair of Eurasian Cranes flew over. Also noted: Brambling, Waxwing, Common Redpoll, Great Spotted Flycatcher, Willow Warbler, Greenfinch, Great Tit, Mistle Thrush, White Wagtail and two Red Squirrels.

Sevettijärvi, Lapland, Finland

Kirakkajärvi  [69° 35' 54.7" N  28° 54' 34.3" E]
Brief stop here to scan over the lake. Four Black-throated Divers, a male Velvet Scoter and Teal were on the water. In the sourrounding birch woods, Tree Pipit, Brambling (4), Pied Flycatcher, Willow Warbler and Redwing were singing. Also Hooded Crow and White Wagtail.

Neiden, Norway
Approaching Neiden, the first singing Bluethroats of the trip were heard. A few Common Gulls were circling over the salmon anglers on the river (Neidenelva). At the bridge a male Goldeneye passed and a Raven flew over. Also Fieldfare, Willow Warbler, House Sparrow and Magpie.

Neiden church (St. Georgs Chapell) [69° 42' 04.6" N  29° 23' 18.1" E]
The target species here was Arctic Warbler. Just before the slope up to the church there is a meadow on the left. At

the end of the meadow is a denser area of birch where this late arriving (mid-June) warbler returns from its wintering

quarters in SE Asia. It was singing and calling from the highest branches of birch slope near a stream. The song was

composed of 2.05-2.76 second strophes, each a trill of 20-27 double elements (range 2.7-5.9 kHz), sounding like a slow Eastern Bonelli's Warbler (P. orientalis). Most strophes decreasing in frequency by around 0.5 kHz. Before some song strophes, a soft, Dipper-like dzit call note at 4.82-7.31 kHz was heard. Each strophe repeated around eight times per minute.

Arctic Warbler habitat, Neiden, Norway

A pair of Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers were active around the church and readily observed on a telegraph pole. Overhead a Rough-legged Buzzard provided good views. Just above the entrance to the church, a pair of Fieldfares had built a nest in a porch and incubation was under way. Also noted: Redstart, Brambling, Greenfinch, Willow Warbler, Arctic Redpoll, Cuckoo, Redwing, Willow Warbler, House Sparrow, and Red Squirrel. 

Buholmvatn [69° 44' 00.7" N  29° 41' 32.3" E]
Brief stop here: female Goosander and singing Tree Pipit and Brambling.

Firkanvatne [69° 34' 29.3" N  30° 00' 38.0" E]
Taking road 885 south to Øvre Pasvik, several Woodcock were observed overhead. The lake here had Black-throated Diver, Goldeneye, Brambling, Redwing, Raven, White Wagtail and Common Gull. Further south, Woodcock were roding in broad daylight during the early evening.

Fjørvatnet [69° 19' 23.3" N  29° 18' 53.5" E]
A pair of Red-throated Divers and two female Goldeneye were close to the lake edge. Two Cuckoo singing and a Waxwing. Continued south as the rain returned.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem [69° 12' 45.8" N  29° 09' 20.2" E]
Camped here for two nights. Red Squirrel and House Sparrows on the feeders. Muskrat in the lake. Waxwing heard. Chaffinch started singing at 22:17 - begining of the night or dawn chorus?

Day 4                                                                                                                              
Thursday 20 June 2019
Øvre Pasvik (Pasvik Valley)
Clear skies and little wind

Highlights
Willow Grouse, Waxwing, Capercaillie, Siberian Tit, Bean Goose, Spotted Redshank, Greenshank, Rough-legged Buzzard, Black-throated Diver, Great Grey Owl, Smew, Wood Sandpiper.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem [69° 12' 45.8" N  29° 09' 20.2" E]
03:00h... went out for some night birding. Pied Flycatcher, Brambling and Willow Warbler singing around the campsite. Also Fieldfare, Redwing, Hooded Crow and House Sparrow active.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem, Norway

Nyrud [69° 08' 25.5" N  29° 13' 36.3" E] > Hestefossdammen [69° 06' 32.6" N  29° 12' 30.8" E], Pasvik Valley
Walked the two and a half mile trail through the bogs and wetlands south of Nyrud to the lake at Hestefossdammen. Views were largely restricted by the birches growing alongside the track. Distant Whimbrel, Jack Snipe, Spotted Redshank, Bar-tailed Godwit, Greenshank, Common Snipe, Golden Plover were heard vocalising. Along the track itself, Willow Grouse, Capercaillie (male and two females), Waxwing, Smew, Siberian Tit and Brambling were encountered but the highlight was a Great Grey Owl in flight! Distant Black-throated Divers were heard but unfortunately nothing more was heard on reaching the lake. Also observed: Cuckoo, Wood Sandpiper, Common Redpoll, Redstart, Eurasian Crane, Reed Bunting, and Willow Warbler. A Bean Goose was recorded responding to a Raven showing too much interest in its nesting site.

Hestefossdammen, Norway

Hestefossdammen [69° 06' 32.6" N  29° 12' 30.8" E]
05:30h... A pair of Black-throated Divers were close-in on the lake. Set up the dish and waited an hour but no vocalisations were heard - they mainly preened and slept. A distant Eurasian Crane trumpeted while a Rough-legged Buzzard soared overhead. Also found: Red-breasted Merganser, Cuckoo, Common Sandpiper, Common Gull, Brambling, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler, Common Redpoll, Hooded Crow, and White Wagtail. By 07:30 it was quite warm and many Green Hairstreak butterflies and Leucorrhinia dragonflies were on the wing.

Gjøkäsen Fuglebu [69° 09' 17.4" N  29° 12' 09.2" E]
09:00h... Stopped here to make breakfast and scan from the hide overlooking the lake and marsh. Waxwings were flycatching from a dead pine, a pair of Whooper Swans were incubating and a female Red-breasted Merganser had a brood of five ducklings. Rough-legged Buzzard regular overhead. Two Wood Sandpipers were displaying in flight. Around 30 Arctic Terns were fishing out on the main part of the lake. Also noted: Reed Bunting, Spotted Flycatcher, Brambling, Chaffinch, Cuckoo, Redwing, Willow Warbler, Wigeon (m), Tufted Duck (3 prs) and Mallard. A very worn, migrant Painted Lady had obviously come a long way.

Hestefossdammen, Norway

Vaggatem, south of [69° 10' 33.5" N  29° 12' 22.9" E]
Stopped here when I saw two Wood Sandpipers on the road. They had at least two chicks in the adjacent birch/pine woodland producing high-pitched calls at 5.8 kHz. One of the adults was producing a lower frequency call at 1.7-2.2 kHz, in addition to the usual alarm call.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem [69° 12' 45.8" N  29° 09' 20.2" E]

Back at the campsite, Pied Flycatcher and Redwing were singing while a Fieldfare was feeding fledged young. The feeders had a pair of Greenfinches with 4 juveniles and another male was singing overhead. Also Great Tit, Chaffinch, House Sparrow and White Wagtail. Slept from 17:00 to 01:15 then went out for more 'night birding'.

Day 5                                                                                                                        
Friday 21 June 2019
Øvre Pasvik > Skogfoss > Skrøytnes > Tana Bru > Gednje
Blue sky, little wind, cool during the night - 2.5°C

Highlights
Bar-tailed Godwit, Jackdaw, Siberian Tit, Willow Tit, Parrot Crossbill, Eurasian Crane, Red-throated Diver, Arctic Warbler, Rough-legged Buzzard, White-tailed Eagle, Grey-headed Wagtail, Long-tailed Skua, Lapland Bunting, Temminck's Stint.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem [69° 12' 45.8" N  29° 09' 20.2" E]
01:15h... Woke up to the sound of a calling Red-throated Diver flying over and a clucking Willow Grouse. I returned to the Nyrud area and a Eurasian Elk (Alces alces) and several Mountain Hares (Lepus timidus) were seen on the drive.

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem, Norway

Nyrud [69° 08' 25.5" N  29° 13' 36.3" E] > Hestefossdammen [69° 06' 32.6" N  29° 12' 30.8" E], Pasvik Valley
Similar to yesterday. Despite heading out even earlier this morning (night?), most wader display had probably peaked by this stage of the breeding season. The bogs and wetlands however are not easy to observe here anymore due to the birch growth along the track. Heard Bar-tailed Godwit, Wood Sandpiper, Snipe and Jack Snipe. Both Siberian Tit and Willow Tit showed well along the track. Small flocks of Crossbills overhead. Distant Eurasian Cranes, Whooper Swans and Cuckoo echoed across the area. Also Willow Grouse, Brambling, Goldeneye, Goosander, Mallard, Waxwing, Fieldfare, Redwing, White Wagtail, Reed Bunting, Hooded Crow and Common Redpoll. Later on returning to the road, a male Parrot Crossbill was down eating grit at the roadside.

Pasvikelva (river border between Norway and Russia) [69° 08' 34.0" N  29° 14' 22.5" E]
River border between Russia and Norway around the remain of an old bridge. A pair of Red-throated Divers flew in from the Russian side and landed in the river, uttering soft, goose-like barks. Seven Whooper Swans cruised downstream. A pair of Common Gulls were calling from the old bridge supports emerging from the water. Distant Snipe drumming. Also Siskin, Cuckoo, Reed Bunting, Redwing, Fieldfare, Brambling, Common Sandpiper, Common Redpoll and Hooded Crow.

Skrøytnes, Norway

Øvre Pasvik Camping, Vaggatem [69° 12' 45.8" N  29° 09' 20.2" E]
05:250h... Birds at the feeders included three Brambling, a male Siskin, three Greenfinch, Great Tit and House Sparrow. A group of 10 Crossbills flew over. Pied Flycatcher, Brambling and Willow Warbler singing.

Langvatnet, Skogfoss [69° 22' 07.5" N  29° 41' 06.8" E]
Sedge-fringed lake surrounded by birch, willow and pine. The highlight here was a non-vocal Arctic Warbler. A Rough-legged Buzzard was circling overhead. Four Greenshank and Common Sandpiper were feeding along the shallower edges. Also present were Goosander, Goldeneye, Tufted Duck, Pied Flycatcher, Fieldfare, Redwing, Brambling, Cuckoo, White Wagtail, Willow Warbler, Reed Bunting, Greenfinch, Great Tit, Hooded Crow, and Common Gull. Another Painted Lady was heading north.

Skrøytnes, Norway

Skrøytnes [69° 24' 51.9" N  29° 56' 47.0" E]
Bird tower overlooking a vast lake and wetland fringes. A Eurasian Elk and calf were wading/swimming from the small island. A White-tailed Eagle was perched up and an Osprey and Rough-legged Buzzard were overhead. Wood Sandpipers displaying and Snipe calling. Two Little Gulls and a Grey-headed Wagtail flew over. Sedge Warbler, Reed Bunting, Brambling, Redwing, Willow Warbler and Meadow Pipit all singing. Also: Whooper Swan, Golden Plover, Hooded Crow and White Wagtail. Three Painted Lady butterflies were further evidence of the scale/reach of this year's 'invasion'.

Skrøytnes, Norway

Varangerfjord from the south side, Norway

Varangerfjord from the south side, Norway

Geatnjajárvi (Gednjevatn), Gednje Valley, Varanger Peninsula [70° 30' 47.4" N  29° 04' 10.9" E]
Headed north to the Varanger peninsula where it was noticeably colder and windier. After getting some supplies in Tana it was up on to the exposed fjells for some really special birds. As soon as I stepped out the car at Gednje there was a Temminck's Stint displaying just a few metres away uttering its continuous reeling song in a butterfly-like display flight. A walk of several hours on the hills around the northwest side of the lake produced 9+ Long-tailed Skuas (including a clutch of one), two Arctic Skuas, several singing Lapland Buntings, Short-eared Owl, Rough-legged Buzzard, nesting Golden Plover and Dunlin, Arctic Tern and Meadow Pipit. A distant Ptarmigan was heard echoing from a more remote rockier mountain top/slope.

Mountains on the Varanger peninsula, Norway

Long-tailed Skua, Geatnjajárvi, Norway

Geatnjajárvi, Norway

Geatnjajárvi, Norway

Day 6                                                                                                                              
Saturday 22 June 2019
Gednje > Stjernevatnet > Tørrvann > Magistervatnet
Cloudy and windy

Highlights
Bluethroat, Temminck's Stint, Rough-legged Buzzard, Long-tailed Skua, Arctic Skua, Long-tailed Duck, Lapland Bunting, Red-necked Phalarope, Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone, Short-eared Owl., Dotterel, Shore Lark, Ruff.

Stjernevatnet, Varanger Peninsula [70° 29' 27.1" N  29° 03' 30.4" E]
The willow-line river flowing into the north end of this lake had displaying red-spotted svecica Bluethroat, Temminck's Stint, Common Sandpiper, Redshank and 4+ Common Snipe. Also breeding were Common Redpoll, Fieldfare, Redwing, Willow Warbler and Hooded Crow. Rough-legged Buzzard overhead.

Stjernevatnet, Norway

Tørrvann (Guorroláttu) [70° 27' 50.8" N  29° 01' 07.3" E]
Took the rough track to the southeast towards Lake Tørrvann. The area was relatively rich in birds but the wind was problematic for obtaining good sound recordings. Most of the dwarf willow and birch trees were only just coming in to leaf. At least 12 Long-tailed Skuas and two Arctic Skuas were active in the area.The drier boggy areas held breeding Bar-tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Turnstone, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Golden Plover and Snipe. These waders looked stunning in full breeding plumage, despite the dull conditions. In the wetter areas of sedge and moss, Red-necked Phalaropes were found on the bog pools surrounding the lake. Common Sandpipers were displaying along the main lake. Out on the open water, pairs of both Black-throated and Red-throated Divers (duetting song heard), a female Long-tailed Duck, a pair of Teal and two Arctic Terns were active. Lapland Bunting and Bluethroat - both looking stunning in the rather muted vegetation - were singing in the small willows. Both Arctic and Common Redpoll were found in this area. Also Rough-legged Buzzard, Short-eared Owl, Reed Bunting, Willow Warbler, Redwing, Meadow Pipit, Common Gull, White Wagtail. The non-bird highlight was an Arctic Fox (Vulpes lagopus)!

Tørrvann, Norway

Lapland Buntings look stunning in the breeding season and several males were singing in the area. The territorial song is composed of 2.6-3.4 sec strophes repeated around five times per minute. Each strophe is a jangle of mainly down-slurred elements including metallic-sounding buzzes (range 1.6-7.4 kHz). It is not unlike Snow Bunting in structure but sounds less musical and more wheezy with an undulating rhythm. Only a single song type was heard from each male, but was variable between males.

Magistervatnet (Magisttarjárvi) [70° 31' 16.3" N  29° 10' 32.5" E]
Walked up the hill on the northwest side of this lake. Still very windy but managed to use a small hollow as shelter to obtain a sound recording of a Rough-legged Buzzard. This corner of the lake had Red-throated Diver, two male Pintail, a male Shoveler, two pairs of Ringed Plover, Temminck's Stint displaying in flight, and single Ruff and Turnstone. The hill produced two Long-tailed Skuas, Golden Plover, Dotterel, Wheatear, Rough-legged Buzzard, Raven, Dunlin, Meadow Pipit and White Wagtail.

Back down at the road, I then took the track sloping up to the southeast on the opposite side. In the barren, stoney area a pair of Shore Larks (Horned Lark) were feeding two fledglings. A pair of Ringed Plovers appeared to be breeding in this habitat too. A few calls were recorded. Another two Long-tailed Skuas were seen and a Red-throated Diver flew down the hillside towards the lake. Lapland Buntings were active here in the wet boggy areas with Golden Plover and Meadow Pipit. Back at the 890/891 road junction, another Red-throated Diver was found in a fairly small pool.

Magistervatnet area, Norway

Day 7                                                                                                                              
Sunday 23 June 2019
Magistervatnet > Båtsfjordfjellet > Nesseby > Vestre Jakobselv

Highlights
Shore Lark, Bluethroat, Long-tailed Skua, Snow Bunting, Purple Sandpiper, Dotterel, Rough-legged Buzzard, Lapland Bunting, Short-eared Owl, Sanderling, Little Stint.

Magistervatnet (Magisttarjárvi), Varanger Peninsula [70° 31' 16.3" N  29° 10' 32.5" E]
05:30h... Cold and windy. A Shore Lark was singing in flight above the barren gravel area beside the lake and I used the shelter of the car combined with an open door to create a wind screen for sound recording. Each song strophe was 1.4-2.0 seconds long with a 3-4 seconds between each one. It had many song types and was singing with immediate variety. Composed of a jerky jangle (7-12 syllables) of short, hesitant whistled elements (up to 18; range 2.4-6.9 kHz). almost like a slow, clipped Dunnock song. A group of nine Red-breasted Mergansers on the lake, Common Sandpiper calling and Meadow Pipit singing.

Magistervatnet area, Norway

Stjernevatnet [70° 28' 26.5" N  28° 59' 39.8" E]
Returned to the old abandoned cabin west of this lake for shelter to fire up the stove... still took ages to boil up some water for breakfast due to the wind. A red-spotted Bluethroat was singing continuously and I made a 10 minute sound recording, afterwhich it performed a short song-flight display. The continuous song output was composed of long phrases of repeated whistled or scratchy syllables, with occasional two second pauses. Each syllable was typically composed of one to three elements. There was minor variation in the repeated element within each phrase, with subtle frequency changes. A Wood Sandpiper was also perched in this streamside dwarf willow scrub. Long-tailed Skua hawking around the area. Red-throated Diver on the lake and another coming down from the higher hills to land in a small roadside pool. Distant Whimbrel displaying. Also Wheatear, Common Sandpiper, Willow Warbler, Meadow Pipit, Redwing, Fieldfare and White Wagtail.

Breakfast prep, Norway

Båtsfjordfjellet (20 km SW of Båtsfjord) [70° 31' 57.7" N  29° 17' 39.6" E]
Heading northeast towards Båtsfjord, the clouds cleared and once up in the snow it was very bright. Walked up onto the higher slopes and found four singing Snow Buntings and Dotterel displaying in flight over a wide area. However, seeing a Purple Sandpiper in breeding habitat was a highlight. Lapland Buntings were singing lower down near the road. Also Long-tailed Skua, Rough-legged Buzzard, Wheatear, Golden Plover and Meadow Pipit. The territorial song from the Snow Bunting was composed of 2.6 second strophes repeated around 5-6 times per minute. Each strophe was a jangle of musical, pure tone elements, some up-slurred, some down-slurred (range 2.0-6.0 kHz). The second, third, fourth and fifth elements were repeated twice in each strophe. Only a single song type was heard from this bird.

Båtsfjordfjellet, Norway

Båtsfjordfjellet, Norway

Båtsfjordfjellet, Norway

Nesseby, Varangerfjorden [70° 08' 37.4" N  28° 51' 23.7" E]
Departed the higher hills for the coast, via Tana Bru where a pair of Whooper Swans had a young brood of cygnets. Down at Nesseby it wasn't much warmer at 7°C but the sun continued to shine in perfect conditions, iluminating many more waders in breeding plumage: Ruff (7 around the pool), Bar-tailed Godwit (100+), Little Stint (2), Knot (5), Sanderling, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Curlew, Redshank and Oystercatcher. A Short-eared Owl was hunting the grassland around the pool in Nesseby Nature Reserve where a female Eider had three small ducklings. An Arctic Skua was chasing some of the 120+ Arctic Terns fishing in the sea off the island of Løkholmen.

Nesseby Nature Reserve, Norway

Nesseby Nature Reserve, Norway

Vestre Jakobselv Camping [70° 07' 9.06" N  29° 19' 58.09" E]
Camped here for two nights.

Day 8                                                                                                                              
Monday 24 June 2019
Vestre Jakobselv > Ekkerøy > Vadøya > Nesseby > Vestre Jakobselv
Beautiful, calm, blue sky day - clouding over in the afternoon

Highlights
White-tailed Eagle, Black Guillemot, Red-throated Pipit, Arctic Skua, Twite, Red-necked Phalarope, Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Short-eared Owl, Velvet Scoter, Bean Goose, Rough-legged Buzzard.

Store Ekkerøy, Varanger Peninsula [70° 04' 12.6" N  30° 06' 56.6" E]
Checked the small harbour area first which had 70+ Common Eider (with occasional song from males) including several broods. House Sparrows common in the village. A pair of Oystercatchers with at least two young were regularly alarming in response to passing Hooded Crows. Spent some time around the Kittiwake colony on the south side. A pair of Black Guillemots on the sea with 47+ Common Guillemots and smaller numbers of Razorbills. White-tailed Eagle and Raven were regular overhead. A group of four Twite were seen briefly on the cliff top of the south side. Also Red-breasted Merganser, Goosander, Arctic Tern, Shag, Great Black-backed Gull, Herring Gull, White Wagtail, Wheatear, Redshank, Oystercatcher, House Sparrow and Meadow Pipit.

Walked the trail anticlockwise around the 'island'. Voles were regularly encountered. At least seven Arctic Skua were seen in heathland breeding habitat. The main pool at the east end had four Red-necked Phalaropes where an immature White-tailed Eagle was perched. Four Red-throated Pipits were located but none were singing. Lapland Buntings were still singing though. The north side held at least 69 Goosander and a pair of Red-breasted Merganser. Several territories of incubating Oystercatchers and a Ringed Plover pair performing the wing-dragging distraction display. Also a few Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone and Sanderling. Other birds observed included (8+), Meadow Pipit, Arctic Tern, Great Black-backed Gull, Herring Gull, Raven, Fieldfare, Redwing and White Wagtail. At least eight Painted Lady butterflies.

Store Ekkerøy, Norway

Store Ekkerøy, Norway

Store Ekkerøy, Norway

Vadsøya [70° 03' 50.2" N  29° 45' 53.9" E]
At least 39 Red-necked Phalarope were spinning around on the pool in the southeast of the small island. Red-throated Pipits were present but only alarm calls were heard. The pool also held three Ruff, Wood Sandpiper, Redshank, 15 Tufted Duck (including display), Eider (5) and a female Mallard. Reed Buntings singing from the willow scrub. Also Arctic Tern, Black-headed Gull, Common Gull, Herring Gull, Greenfinch, Willow Warbler, Hooded Crow, White Wagtail, Meadow Pipit, Redwing, Wheatear, Bluethroat, Common Redpoll and Oystercatcher.

Nesseby [70° 08' 37.4" N  28° 51' 23.7" E]
Returned to Nesseby - Short-eared Owl seen on the drive near Vestre Jackobselv. The tide was out and there appeared to be fewer wadings birds than yesterday. A Short-eared Owl was hunting the grassland between the church and the houses on the landward side. A White-tailed Eagle flew over, harassed by Great Black-backed Gulls. Two male Velvet Scoter offshore and four Bean Geese were on Løkholmen. Two Arctic Skuas were present around the pool. Also: Ruff (3), Bar-tailed Godwit (16+), Curlew, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, Oystercatcher (several pairs inc b/1), Cormorant, Black Guillemot, Shelduck, Eider ( 2 x b/2 on pond), Red-breasted Merganser, Goosander, Eider, Wheatear (singing), Meadow Pipit, House Sparrow, Hooded Crow, Common Gull and Herring Gull.

Quick visit to Nesseby harbour just to the east with another 30+ Goosander and a roost of 31 Hooded Crows. On returning to the campsite, a Lapwing and Rough-legged Buzzard were seen just east of Nesseby.

Day 9                                                                                                                              
Tuesday 25 June 2019
Vestre Jakobselv > Vardø > Hornøya > Hamningberg > Barvikmyra > Kibymyra

Highlights
Red-necked Phalarope, Shore Lark, Short-eared Owl, Arctic Skua, White-tailed Eagle, Long-tailed Skua, Brünnich's Guillemot, Red-throated Pipit, Scaup, Whooper Swan, Red-throated Diver, Long-tailed Duck, Bean Goose.

Vestre Jakobselv > Vardø
A few birds of note on the drive east to Vardø. Four plus Red-necked Phalaropes on pools between Ekkeroy and Krampenes; Shore Lark and 16 Goosander east of Krampenes; White-tailed Eagle, Short-eared Owl and two Arctic Skuas east of Skallelv; White-tailed Eagle and Whooper Swan pair west of Kramvik; two Long-tailed Skuas at Svartnes. On the return journey later in the day: two Arctic Skuas, Rough-legged Buzzard and White-tailed Eagle at Komagvaer; three Spotted Redshank at Skallelv.

Vardø  [70° 22' 24.89" N  31° 06' 15.09" E]
Through the undersea tunnel to the island of Vardø where a boat leaves to the further island of Hornøya. Kittiwakes nesting around the town on various buildings including the Pomor Museum..

Kittiwakes nesting on the Pomor museum, Vardø, Norway

Hornøya [70° 23' 13.01" N  31° 08' 57.25" E]
Most of the trail on the island was closed due to falling rocks. Only the area around the landing point was accessible which limited close views of species like Puffin which nest on top of the cliffs. Still worth the 400 KR to be immersed in a place where birds rule rather than humans. The Brünnich's Guillemots were easily located among the hordes of Common Guillemots (including bridled forms) and Razorbills. Guillemots and Kittiwakes accounted for most of the sonic experience but listening closer, Shag and Razorbill could be heard too. Large numbers of auks were also sitting around on the water below the cliffs including Puffins and a few Black Guillemots. A White-tailed Eagle and up to 10 Ravens were regular overhead and at least 10 Arctic Skuas pursued seabirds between Hornøya and Reinøya. Also Rock Pipit, Great Black-backed Gull, Herring Gull and White Wagtail,

European Shags, Hornøya, Norway

European Shag, Hornøya, Norway

Seabird City Auks, Hornøya, Norway

Seabird City Auks, Hornøya, Norway

Vardø > Hamningberg > Vardø
Birds noted on the drive to the end of the road in northeast Europe included Long-tailed Skua (10), Arctic Skua (4), White-tailed Eagle (4), Scaup (2), Whooper Swan (6), Red-throated Diver (4), Raven (3), Wheatear (25+), Golden Plover, Fieldfare, Redshank, Hooded Crow, Great Black-backed Gull and Meadow Pipit.

Road to Hamningberg, Norway

Road to Hamningberg, Norway

Hamningberg [70° 32' 21.3" N  30° 36' 22.6" E]

The drive here passes through some spectacular barren landscapes along the single track road. Very windy. Brief song from a Red-throated Pipit but the pair were busy feeding nestlings. Two Gannets were diving offshore and another White-tailed Eagle was overhead. Two Long-tailed Skuas were hunting in the grasslands inland of the bay. Also Golden Plover, Goosander and Meadow Pipit.

Hamningberg, Norway

Barvikmyra [70° 23' 43.7" N  30° 57' 45.3" E]
Vast bogland where almost every pool seemed to host a pair of Red-throated Divers - eight pairs seen. Pairs of Bean Goose and Whooper Swan appeared to be nesting. Two Long-tailed Ducks and a Scaup on the larger pool. At least five Arctic Skuas.

Barvikmyra, Norway

Kibymyra [70° 06' 20.5" N  29° 49' 45.5" E]
Slept in the car here for some 'night-birding' later on.

Hamningberg, Norway

Day 10                                                                                                                              
Wednesday 26 June 2019
Kibymyra > Utsjoki > Haapalahto > Ivalo

Highlights
Jack Snipe, Rough-legged Buzzard, Willow Grouse, Long-tailed Skua, Bluethroat, Whimbrel, Lapland Bunting, Short-eared Owl, Whooper Swan, White-tailed Eagle, Grey-headed Wagtail, Siberian Jay, Osprey, Waxwing.

Kibymyra [70° 06' 20.5" N  29° 49' 45.5" E]
02:15h... The highlight here was displaying Jack Snipe, though quite distant, and I managed to get a record sound recording of the 'galloping horse' song. Appeared to be a good density of Whimbrel, Golden Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Redshank and Snipe. Three Willow Grouse were heard advertising and at least seven Long-tailed Skuas were found in breeding habitat. Several Bluethroat singing in the surrounding willow and birch with Reed Bunting, Willow Warbler, Brambling, Common Redpoll, Redwing, and Fieldfare. Two Rough-legged Buzzards and two Short-eared Owls were hunting. Also: Whooper Swan (2 prs), Meadow Pipit, Hooded Crow, Tufted Duck, Raven and Wheatear.

Drive south to Ivalo, Finland
Species noted included White-tailed Eagle over Vadsø, Rough-legged Buzzard, Short-eared Owl, Whooper Swan, Hooded Crow, Wheatear and Fieldfare. A Red Fox (Vulpes vulpes) was seen north of Utsjoki.

Puksala, Finland [69° 43' 48.2" N  27° 01' 59.7" E]
Stopped here where the pine zone begins south of Utsjoki to make lunch. It was much warmer here at 14°C so quickly removed the extra layers worn while in Norway. Rough-legged Buzzard, Brambling, White Wagtail, Willow Warbler and Magpie noted.

Lihavakalajärvet [69° 23' 18.2" N  27° 14' 14.9" E]
I recognised this name from my 2003 trip so made a brief stop. A Grey-headed Wagtail and Short-eared Owl were the highlights. Also around the lakes: Goldeneye (3), Tufted Duck (3 prs), Reed Bunting, Brambling, Common Redpoll, Willow Warbler, Redwing, Raven and Common Sandpiper.

Lihavakalajärvet, Finland

Haapalahti Lintutorni [69° 04' 14.3" N 27° 06' 15.7" E]
This tall bird tower surveys a vast wetland and surrounding forests. A Siberian Jay was hopping around the pines at the base of the tower. Osprey fishing. Snipe drumming. Pied Flycatcher, Brambling, Redwing, Willow Warbler and Reed Bunting all singing. Two Waxwings flycatching. Also Common Redpoll, Tufted Duck, Common Gull, Fieldfare and Hooded Crow.

Haapalahti, Finland

Haapalahti, Finland

Haapalahti, Finland

Naverniemic campsite, Ivalo [68° 38' 36.9" N  27° 31' 23.1" E]
Arrived back where I camped on the first night. Three Waxwings were flycatching outside my tent and the Woodcock was still roding overhead. A pair of Fieldfares were feeding fledglings. Chiffchaff, Yellowhammer, Pied Flycatcher, Brambling, Chaffinch, Song Thrush, Willow Warbler and Great Tit were all singing. Also Common Sandpiper, Common Redpoll, Great Spotted Woodpecker, and Hooded Crow.

Naverniemic campsite, Lapland, Finland

Day 11                                                                                                                              
Thursday 27 June 2019
Ivalo > Kittila > Helsinki > London Heathrow

Highlights
Little Bunting, Eurasian Crane, Whimbrel, Brambling, Cuckoo, Redwing.

Ivalo [68° 40' 34.96" N  27° 38' 05.50" E]
Returned to the Little Bunting site at 03:30 where conditions were much better this time. Heard singing almost as soon as I got out of the car. Spent two hours listening and recording in the area. Listening to the repertoire of the Little Bunting, it was singing with eventual variety, i.e. AAAA-BBBBBBB-CCCCC, etc.. Spectrographic analysis later revealled that this male had at least eight song types.

Reed Bunting, Yellowhammer, Brambling, Chaffinch, Willow Warbler, Cuckoo, Redwing and a distant Whimbrel were also singing. Also noted: Eurasian Crane, Willow Tit, Snipe, Siskin, Tree Pipit, Song Thrush, Hooded Crow. Back in Ivalo a Pied Flycatcher and Wood Pigeons were singing from suburban gardens and two Woodcock were roding over the main street.

Birch and Spruce Forest on the road to Kuttura, Lapland, Finland

All photographs © 2019  F. S. Simpson

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