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Czech Republic

15 -29 June 2016

Observers: F. Simpson

(with LS & JFS)

INTRODUCTION

This was really a family trip with our 17-month-old son rather than a birding trip. Having been to the extremes of Europe for the exciting species in the past, there was no pressure to see anything new. Just relaxed camping, sight-seeing with some birding and sound recording at dawn while the family slept on.

 Common Redstart (Phoenicurus phoenicurus), Cesky Krumlov

Highlights

Goldeneye, Red-crested Pochard, Quail, Night Heron, Great Egret, Purple Heron, Black Stork, Honey Buzzard, Montagu's Harrier, Black Tern, Turtle Dove, Black Woodpecker, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Wryneck, Dipper, Black Redstart, Fieldfare, Barred Warbler, River Warbler, Marsh Warbler, Icterine Warbler, Greenish Warbler, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Collared Flycatcher, Marsh Tit, Penduline Tit, Red-backed Shrike, Golden Oriole, Serin, Hawfinch, Common Rosefinch.

Logistics

Flights
Return flights with Easyjet from London to Prague.

Ground Transport

Car hire with Europcar.

Accommodation
Campsites - numerous throughout the countryside. Jurys Inn Hotel Prague on the final two nights.

Maps
Czech Republic 755 National, 1:450,000. Michelin.

Trebonsko 161, 1:60,000. Shocart 161.

Narodni Parky Ceske Svycarsko 12. 1:50,000. Trasa/KCT.

Fuel

Petrol was around £1 per litre.

Exchange Rate June 2016
30 Czech Crowns = £1.00

Literature, references & site guides used

•     Trip reports other than from commercial tour operators were few and far between - does anyone actually go birding        here?

•     Two very general guides give you a flavour but don't provide much detail:

       Gorman, G. 2006. Birding in Eastern Europe. Wildsounds.

       Gorman, G. 1994. Where to Watch Birds in Eastern Europe. Hamlyn.

•     The field guides of choice were:

•     Svensson, L. et al. 2009. Bird Guide. HarperCollins.

•     Tolman, T. & Lewington, R. 1997. Butterflies of Britain & Europe. Collins.

•     Dijkstram,  K-D B.vensson & Lewington, R. L. et al. 2006. Field Guide to the Dragonflies of Britain and Europe.

•     British Wildlife Publishing.

Itinerary

Day 01       15/06/16     London > Prague
Day 02       16/06/16     Prague > Chomutov > Teplice > Usti > Decin > Hrensko > Narodni park Ceske Svycarsko
Day 03       17/06/16     Ceske Svycarsko National Park
Day 04       18/06/16     Ceske Svycarsko National Park > Ceska Lipa > Sedmihorky
Day 05       19/06/16     Sedmihorky > Trutnov > Adrspassko-teplicke skaly > Teplice nad Metuji
Day 06       20/06/16     Teplice nad Metuji > Prague > Ceska Budejovice > Trebon
Day 07       21/06/16     Trebon
Day 08       22/06/16     Trebon

Day 09       23/06/16     Trebon > Cervene Blato > Pyhrabruck (Austria) > Heinrichs (Austria) > Cesky Krumlov

Day 10       24/06/16     Cesky Krumlov

Day 11       25/06/16     Cesky Krumlov > Phillipsreut (Germany) > Narodni park Sumava

Day 12       26/06/16     Narodni park Sumava > Svihov
Day 13       27/06/16     Narodni park Sumava > Plzen > Prague

Day 14       28/06/16     Prague

Day 15       29/06/16     Prague > London

Day 1
Wednesday 15 June 2016
London > Prague

Arrived very late as flight delayed. Stayed at Hotel Krystal on the outskirts of Prague.

Day 2
Thursday 16 June 2016
Prague > Chomutov > Teplice > Usti > Decin > Hrensko > Narodni park Ceske Svycarsko

Hotel Krystal
On departing I heard the first (of many) Black Redstart of the trip, singing from a rooftop. Also Blackcap, Garden Warbler, Chiffchaff, Chaffinch, Blackbird, Magpie, Swift, Wood Pigeon, Starling and Feral Pigeon.

Drive: Prague > Chomutov > Decin
The drive was mainly through cereal fields with small copses: Turtle Dove, Common Buzzard (10), Common Kestrel (12).

Hrensko, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
At the village of Hrensko, on the edge of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, a small river (Kamenice) enters the large Labe river, running through a deep gorge on the German border. The area has numerous rock formations and cliffs.

Best bird here was a Honey Buzzard overhead. Black Redstart (3 singing mm + b/3), Dipper (b/2), Grey Wagtail (6+), White Wagtail (9+), Raven (2 prs), Jay (2), Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Blackbird, Swift, House Martin, Yellow-legged Gull, Mallard, Robin, Blackbird, Chaffinch, Great Tit and Wren.

Mezni Louka campsite, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
The rain came on just after we pitched the tent at 19:00. Heard a Firecrest singing and a Chaffinch singing with the woodpecker-like kick element at the end of terminal flourish.

Day 3
Friday 17 June 2016
Ceske Svycarsko National Park

Mezni Louka campsite, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
Woke up at 04:55 for some early morning birding but the rain, which had  fallen through the night, continued. In the oaks and spruces around the campsite: Pied Flycatcher, Redstart (brood), Wood Warbler, Firecrest, Jay, Chiffchaff, Song Thrush, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Greenfinch and Blackbird.

Hrensko, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
The rain eventually ceased at 15:45 and we hung around Hrensko most of the day. Again, a Honey Buzzard was observed overhead, three Black Redstart territories were located in the village, and a Grey Wagtail was singing on the small river (including flight display). Down on the Lake, four Common Buzzards were overhead with Grey Wagtail and Grey Heron on the river. Goulash and potato pancakes for dinner.

Mezni Louka campsite, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
Back at the campsite in the evening, the Wood Warbler was singing and nearby where the deciduous woodland met the coniferous woodland, both Firecrest and Goldcrest could be heard singing simultaneously. Also Great Spotted Woodpecker, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, House Martin (12+), White Wagtail, Chaffinch, Robin, Blackbird and Great Tit.

Day 4
Saturday 18 June 2016
Ceske Svycarsko National Park > Ceska Lipa > Sedmihorky

Mezni Louka campsite, Narodni parl Ceske Svycarsko
Awake at 05:00 for some early morning birding while the family slept on. Walked the Lynx Trail then took a hiking trail, deeper into the forest. Best birds were Black Woodpecker, Hawfinch (ad + juv), Crested Tit, Crossbill and Firecrest. Also noted in the mixed spruce forest were Nuthatch (2 broods), Great Spotted Woodpecker (5), Mistle Thrush, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Redstart, Wren, Chaffinch, Robin, Goldcrest, Song Thrush, Wood Pigeon and Blackbird.

Drive to Ceska Lipa
Tried to find access to the fish ponds in this area - no signs despite Novozamecky being a national nature reserve. In the surrounding farmland, Montagu's Harrier, Red-backed Shrike, Yellowhammer and Whitethroat were observed.

Day 5
Sunday 19 June 2016
Sedmihorky > Trutnov > Adrspassko-teplicke skaly > Teplice nad Metuji

Sedmihorky campsite
Best birds in the woodland here were Gray-headed Woodpecker, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Firecrest and Redstart. Also noted: Chiffchaff, Jay, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Blackbird, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Song Thrush, Swallow and Jay. On the drive to Trutnov, a Montagu's Harrier and four Kestrels were noted.

Trutnov > Adrspach
Wryneck and Nightingale heard singing.

Adrspach
Had a picnic lunch in the meadow next to the village once the thundersorm had cleared. Best birds were singing Corncrake, Common Rosefinch, Icterine Warbler and Serin and a Wryneck was seen briefly. Also noted: Fieldfare (pr with food for young), Blackcap, White Wagtail, Swift, Blackbird, House Martin, Greenfinch, Buzzard, Song Thrush, Chiffchaff and Chaffinch.

Adrspach rocks, Adrspassko-teplicke skaly
Despite being very touristy the best bird encountered was a singing Greenish Warbler in an open mossy area of spruce and pines. Also noted: Black Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher, Fieldfare, Firecrest, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Grey Wagtail, Swift, Mallard, Great Tit, Chaffinch, Dunnock and Robin.

Day 6
Monday 20 June 2016
Teplice nad Metuji > Prague > Ceska Budejovice > Trebon

Autokemp Bucnice, Teplice nad Metuji
Noted: Grey Wagtail, Chiffchaff, Dunnock, Blackbird, White Wagtail and Chaffinch.

Drive: Teplice > Prague > Ceska Budejovice > Trebon
Noted on the drive: Golden Oriole (pr), Black Stork (2), White Stork (1), Crested Lark (several at roadsides), Marsh Harrier, Common Buzzard (6), Common Kestrel (9), Jay, Mute Swan, Black-headed Gull, Grey Heron (2) and Wood Pigeon.

Autocamp Trebon, Trebon
Situated on the shore of the fish pond/lake Opatovicky on the south side of the town. The highlights here were the Black-crowned Night Herons which often flew over, and Grey-headed Woodpecker and Middle Spotted Woodpecker in woodland bordering the campsite. Also heard or observed: Black Redstart (with brood), Nuthatch (4+), Serin (singing), Great Spotted Woodpecker (3), Chiffchaff, White Wagtail, Grey Heron, Chaffinch, Blackbird and several Mallard clearly used to handouts from campers.

Rybnik Opatovivky (fish pond): walk along the north-east side
Best birds were a Great Egret and Night Heron. Also noted: Great Crested Grebe, Hooded Crow, Tufted Duck, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Grey Wagtail, Chiffchaff, Wren, Black-headed Gull, Chaffinch, Mute Swan, Greylag Goose (12+), Song Thrush, Goldfinch, Starling and Robin.

Day 7
Tuesday 21 June 2016
Trebon

Autocamp Trebon > Rybnik Opatovivky (fish pond): walk along the north-east side
The campsite gate was locked until 06:00 so birded on the lake shore until then. Best birds were a Purple Heron, Night Heron and two Great Egrets overhead and a Golden Oriole singing distantly. Also noted: Black Redstart (b/3 and singing male), Tree Sparrow (juv), Wood Warbler (singing), Serin (singing), Crossbill (2 over), Green Woodpecker, Nuthatch, Chiffchaff, Great Crested Grebe, Mute Swan, Mallard, Tufted Duck, Grey Heron, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Wood Pigeon, Great Tit and Collared Dove.

Around the gothic church at Schwarzenberska Hrobka, a Black Redstart singing from a flying buttress, Jackdaw (10+), Nuthatch, Great Spotted Woodpecker and Chiffchaff.

Walked along the north east corner of Opatovicky which also has a canal with wetland woodland where two Golden Orioles were heard. Searching the oaks on the dam, I eventually located a couple of Collared Flycatchers. Also found: Short-toed Treecreeper (singing), Marsh Tit, Kingfisher, Night Heron (2), Nuthatch, Green Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Cormorant, Grey Wagtail, Mute Swan (22), Great Crested Grebe, Blackcap, Chiffchaff, Wren, Chaffinch and White Wagtail.

Rybnik Svet (fish pond): walk along the eastern dam into Trebon
Walked along the oak-lined dam into the historic centre for the day. Best bird was a male Red-crested Pochard in eclipse plumage. Also observed: Nuthatch (9), Common Tern (3), Black Redstart, Chiffchaff, Grey Heron, Black-headed Gull (30+), Mallard (46), Greenfinch, and Grey Wagtail.

Trebon
Black Redstarts were common around the town and 25+ House Martins were over the main square. Spent some time relaxing in Zamecky Park. Best birds here were Red Kite, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Marsh Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and Fieldfare. Also noted: Nuthatch (7+), Green Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Jay, Black Redstart, White Wagtail, Blackbird, Chiffchaff, Grey Heron, Blackcap, Swallow, Starling, Wood Pigeon, Chaffinch, Swift, Collared Dove, House Sparrow, Jackdaw, Blue Tit and House Martin.

Rybnik Svet (fish pond): return walk along the eastern dam to the campsite
Two female Goldeneye were observed on the walk back. One was flying in and out of the oaks. Another Night Heron flew over and five Grey Herons were fishing along the edge. Also noted: Short-toed Treecreeper, Tree Sparrow, Black Redstart, Nuthatch, Hooded Crow, Green Woodpecker, Jay, White Wagtail, House Sparrow, Wood Pigeon, Grey Wagtail, Chaffinch, Starling. Feral species included an eclipse male Wood Duck and a brood of three Swan Geese. Back at camp, a Night Heron flew over at 21:04h.

Day 8
Wednesday 22 June 2016
Trebon

Rybnik Svet (fish pond): trail along the south side towards Odmeny
Went out sound recording 06:00-08:30 before the family got up for breakfast. The trail passes through mixed oak woodland, scrub, cereal fields, reedbeed and open lake. Best birds were a female Collared Flycatcher with food for young, Barred Warbler, Golden Oriole, Common Redstart, Marsh Tit, Serin and Hawfinch. Also noted: Spotted Flycatcher, Nuthatch, Fieldfare, Black Redstart, Tree Sparrow, Jay, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Chiffchaff, Green Woodpecker, White Wagtail, Collared Dove, Hooded Crow, Magpie and Jackdaw.

Rybnik Rozmberk (fish pond): trail along the dam on the north side
A walk along the oak-lined dam produced a non-vocal male Collared Flycatcher, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Golden Oriole, Hawfinch drinking at a puddle and Marsh Tit. Also present were Nuthatch, Firecrest, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Tree Sparrow, Jay, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Fieldfare, Grey Wagtail, Goldfinch, Song Thrush, Hooded Crow, Jackdaw, Blue Tit, Chaffinch, Starling and Wood Pigeon.

The lake held Black Tern (22), Great Egret (6), Grey Heron (7), Cormorant (8), Mute Swan (34), Black-headed Gull, Grey Wagtail, Tufted Duck, White Wagtail, Mallard and Great Crested Grebe.

In the neighboring farmland: Yellowhammer, Whitethroat, Skylark, Tree Sparrow and Swallow.

Rybnik Obojsky, near Preseka
A small pool with marsh and reedbed. A quick look (it was very hot by this time) produced Common Rosefinch, Red-backed Shrike, Great Egret (2), Marsh Harrier, Grey Heron and Yellowhammer.

Rybnik Velky Tisy NW corner near Saloun
Could not find any access trails into this area so viewed one area from the dams near Saloun. Disappointing considering what has been written about it. Species noted: Reed Warbler (inc 2 juveniles), Pochard, Great Egret, Common Tern, Chiffchaff, Yellowhammer, Fieldfare, Moorhem, Black Redstart, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Greylag Goose, Great Tit, Black-headed Gull, Grey Heron, Common Buzzard, Goldfinch, Mallard, Mute Swan, White Wagtail, Tree Sparrow, Swallow, Wood Pigeon, Greenfinch, Staring, Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Canada Goose, Blackbird and House Martin.

Day 9
Thursday 23 June 2016
Trebon > Cervene Blato > Pyhrabruck (Austria) > Heinrichs (Austria) > Cesky Krumlov

Rybnik Svet (fish pond): trail along the south side towards Odmeny
Went out sound recording 06:00-09:00 before the family got up for breakfast. The trail passes through mixed oak woodland, scrub, cereal fields, reedbeed and open lake. A good morning with Marsh Warbler, Barred Warbler, Penduline Tit, Bearded Reedling, Golden Oriole, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker. Also noted: Tree Sparrow, Black Redstart, Night Heron, Marsh Warbler, Reed Warbler, Nuthatch, Green Woodpecker, Yellowhammer, Whitethroat, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Hooded Crow, Skylark, Linnet, Goldfinch, Grey Heron, Greenfinch, Blackbird, Great Crested Grebe. 

 Marsh Warbler habitat, Rybnik Cirkvicny

Rybnik Ruda
A large lake surrounded by Scots Pine and oaks. Best birds here were two pairs of Red-crested Pochard and a Great Egret. Also noted: Common Pochard (64), Tufted Duck (31), Great Crested Grebe (6 prs), Mute Swan (14), Blackcap, White Wagtail, Buzzard, Chaffinch, Grey Heron and Great Spotted Woodpecker.

Rybnik Xerr
Small pond with water-lilies, surrounded by oaks and pine. A Red-breasted Flycatcher was singing at the roadside at 48º 52' 08.2'' N  14º 26' 52.7'' E and two female Goldeneye were on the pond. Also Little Grebe, Chiffchaff, Chaffinch, Mallard and Blackbird.

Narodni Prirodni Rezervace Cervene Blatoa
Overgrown bog with pines - very dry and dense. Best here was an Icterine Warbler, otherwise very quiet. Also noted: Crested Tit, Tree Pipit, Willow Warbler, Buzzard, Chiffchaff, Goldcrest, Chaffinch, Blackcap, Blue Tit and Blackbird.

Drive: Trebon > Cesky Krumlov via Austria
Stopped in the spruce forest above Heinrichs in Austria where two Jays were going crazy. Eventually a female Goshawk flew out, pursued by the Jays. Also a Robin singing here, with many strophes ending with a beautiful whistle at 3.8 kHz. Just over the border into Austria, Quail, Yellowhammer and Skylark were singing around Pyhrabruck.

Cesky Krumlov
Stayed nearby at the nicest campsite of the trip, Camping Paradijs.

Day 10
Friday 24 June 2016
Cesky Krumlov

Camping Paradijs, near Cesky Krumlov  48º 50' 22.6'' N  14º 22' 31.1'' E
This campsite in a sheltered valley on the bank of the Vltava river, 4 km from Cesky Krumlov, and surrounded by mature mixed forest. Best birds before breakfast were singing River Warbler, Hawfinch (pr), Marsh Tit, Golden Oriole, and Siskin. Also noted: Spotted Flycatcher, Nuthatch, Yellowhammer, Grey Wagtail, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Tree Sparrow, Wren, Wood Pigeon, Greenfinch, Chiffchaff, Starling, Blackcap, Swallow, Song Thrush, Blackbird, White Wagtail, Goldcrest, Chaffinch, Blue Tit, Goldfinch and Great Tit.

Cesky Krumlov
Beautiful historic town with Black Redstarts singing from many rooftops, Swifts screaming overhead, Kestrels nesting in the higher buildings and Grey Wagtails along the Vltava river. Also noted: Chiffchaff, White Wagtail, Swallow, House Sparrow, Starling and Feral Pigeon.

In the town park (Mestske Sady) both Common Redstart and Black Redstart were feeding young, and a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and Lesser Whitethroat were found. Also noted: Nuthatch, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Grey Wagtail, Chiffchaff, Greenfinch, Great Tit, White Wagtail, Blackbird and Collared Dove.

 Common Swifts (Apus apus) screaming around Cesky Krumlov

Camping Paradijs, near Cesky Krumlov  48º 50' 22.6'' N  14º 22' 31.1'' E
In the evening, a Grey-headed Woodpecker called briefly, a Kingfisher flew along the river and a Common Buzzard was soaring.

Day 11
Saturday 25 June 2016
Cesky Krumlov > Phillipsreut (Germany) > Narodni park Sumava

Camping Paradijs, near Cesky Krumlov  48º 50' 22.6'' N  14º 22' 31.1'' E
A Wood Warbler was singing this morning and three Hawfinches were in riverside trees. A pair of adult Kingfishers were active along the river. Also noted: Coal Tit, Fieldfare, Nuthatch, Yellowhammer, Spotted Flycatcher, Goldcrest, Mistle Thrush, Grey Wagtail, Robin, Chiffchaff, Jay, Wren, Blackbird, Starling, Chaffinch, Blackcap, Great Spotted Woodpecker,White Wagtail, Song Thrush, Great Tit and Wood Pigeon.

Phillipsreut, Germany  48º 51' 30.1'' N  13º 40' 50.1'' E
Brief stop here for lunch and noted Black Redstart, Fieldfare, Garden Warbler, Yellowhammer, Whitethroat, Blackcap, White Wagtail, Swift, House Sparrow and Chaffinch.

Sumava National Park
Drove through the park but nowhere was particularly 'birdy'. Camped at Autokemp Nove Mestecko: Hawfinch, Firecrest, Black Redstart, Buzzard, Garden Warbler, Blackcap, Chaffinch, Chiffchaff, Greenfinch, House Sparrow, Swallow, House Martin, Starling, Great Tit, Song Thrush and Robin.

Day 12
Sunday 26 June 2016
Narodni park Sumava > Svihov

Campsite: Autokemp Nove Mestecko
Additions noted this morning: Marsh Tit, Nuthatch, Crested Tit, Goldcrest and Eurasian Treecreeper.

Drive to Svihov via Klatovy
A Red-backed Shrike, Honey Buzzard, Serin and Bullfinch were seen around the village of Besiny. In Klatovy, Black Redstart, Kestrel and Swift were around the main town square.

Svihov Castle  49º 28' 43.2'' N  13º 17' 11.0'' E
The castle, surrounded by a moat, was located in flood plain with hay fields and marshy areas. A pair of Coypu had at least 12 young. Best bird here was a singing Marsh Warbler. Also noted: Kestrels nesting in the castle, Swift (12+), Black Redstart, Kingfisher, Yellowhammer, Tree Sparrow, Skylark, Fieldfare, Chiffchaff, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Swallow, Goldfinch, House Martin, Greenfinch, Starling, Chaffinch, House Sparrow, Wood Pigeon, Blackbird, Magpie, Mallard, and Feral Pigeon.

 Coypu (Myocastor coypus), Svihov Castle

Day 13
Monday 27 June 2016
Narodni park Sumava > Plzen > Praha

Drive: Sumava > Plzen > Praha
Noted on the drive: Red Kite (1), Common Buzzard (3), Kestrel (3).

Prague
Stayed at Jurys Inn on Sokolovska. Black Redstart singing outside the hotel. Walked to Charles Bridge noting more Black Redstart, Kestrels and Jackdaws around the old town square and c30 Mutes Swans on the Vltava river.

Day 14
Tuesday 28 June 2016
Prague

Prague (Praha)
Spent the whole day in the city, visiting all the main sites and hearing at least 8 singing Black Redstarts. Also noted: Grey Heron, Mute Swan, Swift, Moorhen, Kestrel, Blackcap, Mallard (b/9, b/6), House Martin, Swallow, Black-headed Gull, Blackbird, and Chaffinch. To escape the heat and sun, we had lunch in the park on Petrin Hill noting Green Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Wren, Robin, Blackbird, Chaffinch, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Wood Pigeon, Swift, Magpie and Feral Pigeon.

 Mute Swans (Cygnus olor) on the Vltava river in Prague

Day 15
Wednesday 29 June 2016
Prague > London

Prague Airport
The final bird was a Black Redstart singing on the roof of Terminal 1.

All photographs © 2016  F. S. Simpson

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