INTRODUCTION
The wetlands of the department of Alt Empordà in
the province of Girona in northeast Spain are probably the best coastal
area for
breeding waterbirds in Spain after the Coto Doñana and the Ebro
Delta. The fact that over 100 species breed in a relatively compact area of
diverse habitats with a good infrastructure make it an excellent base for
experiencing many specialities of the western Mediterranean. I decided to spend two weeks in
the area after being impressed during a brief
visit in July 1998.
The first week I
concentrated solely in the area around the Parc Natural dels
Aiguamolls de L'Empordà (42º20N
03º10E). During the second week my brother and friend arrived
with a car and, while we did more touristic things, I also birded nearby
at Parc Natural del Cap de Creus, north of Cadaqués and in Andorra. The
excellent Camping Nautic Alamata where I camped for the duration is right on
the doorstep of the natural park and this means that the wildlife can be
experienced from dawn to dusk with out any further travel. Although the area is
relatively flat the landscape can be particularly beautiful amongst the marshes
with the Mediterranean
Sea on one
side and the backdrop of the Pyrenees on the other. Weather
was very warm to hot with blue skies for the most part with
the exception of two or three days of crazy, stormy weather
mid-trip.
HIGHLIGHTS
Bee-eater · Night Heron · Hoopoe · Savi's
Warbler · Purple Heron · Purple Swamp-hen · Stone Curlew · White Stork ·
Fan-tailed Warbler · Great Reed Warbler · Little Bittern · Black-winged Stilt ·
Little Crake · Whiskered Tern · Montagu's Harrier · Short-toed Lark · Great
Spotted Cuckoo · Golden Oriole · Great White Egret · Gull-billed Tern · Kentish
Plover · Black Kite · Alpine Swift · Lesser Grey Shrike · Greater Flamingo ·
Squacco Heron · Collared Pratincole · Roller · Olivaceous Warbler · Short-toed
Eagle · Woodchat Shrike · Blue Rock Thrush · Rock Sparrow · Thekla Lark ·
Pallid Swift · Black-eared Wheatear · Tawny Pipit · Mediterranean Shearwater ·
Cory's Shearwater · Lesser Kestrel · Crag Martin · Honey Buzzard · Ring Ouzel ·
Red-backed Shrike · Cirl Bunting · Slender-billed Gull · Avocet.
TRAVEL
Return flight from London Stansted to Barcelona
El Prat with GO (now deceased) was £148. Quick rail connection from the
airport to Sants Station in the Catalan capital from where I caught a
clean, comfortable and hassle-free train (nice change from London) to
Figueres (2hrs, 1290 Pts./€7.75). Did have to hang around for a bit for the
local bus service from Figueres to Castelló d'Empúries which runs from the
terminal near the town square (20 minutes or so, 150 Pts./€0.90). On reaching
Castelló I had a cool drink in a bar where the friendly staff phoned me a taxi
for the last leg of the journey (~10minutes) to the campsite between
here and San Pere Pescador.
ACCOMMODATION
Camped at the first class Camping Nautic Almata
(www.almata.com) which boasts plenty
of facilities including restaurant, bar, disco, car wash, washing and ironing facilities,
foreign money exchange, etc, etc. It opens around mid-May and during my visit
was still relatively peaceful and quiet but beware that during July and August
the place is extremely packed with families. However, this is probably the
least productive time to bird the marshes anyway.
LITERATURE, REFERENCES & SITE GUIDES
USED
1. Rebane, M. 1994. Where
To Watch Birds in North & East Spain. Helm.
2. Svensson, L. et al. 1999. Bird Guide.
HarperCollins.
3. Tolman, T. & Lewington, R. 1997. Butterflies of
Britain & Europe. Collins.
4. Sterry, P. 2000. Complete Mediterranean Wildlife
Photoguide. Collins.
5. Mapa topogràfica de
Catalunya No. 4 (1:25000): Parc Natural del Aiguamolls de
L'Empordà.
ITINERARY
Day 01 03/06/00 London > Barcelona > Figueres > Castelló
d'Empúres > Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá.
Day 02 04/06/00 Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls de L'Empordá: Reserva Natural
Integral de Les Llaunes.
Day 03 05/06/00 Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, Cortal Can Comas, Estany
Europa, Estany d’en Turies.
Day 04 06/06/00 Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Reserva Natural Illa de Caramany -
Fluvia, Sant Pere Pescador, Estany del Matà.
Day 05 07/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, Estany d’en Turies.
Day 06 08/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, El Cortalet > Castelló d’Empúries (GR 92 footpath).
Day 07 09/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá: Les Llaunes > Reserva Natural Integral dels Estanys (Vilaüt).
Day 08 10/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá: Rained out!!! Camping Nautic Almata.
Day 09 11/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Besalú, Garrotxa.
Day 10 12/06/00 Aiguamolls de L'Empordá
> Montserrat > Cardona.
Day 11 13/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Roses > Cadaqués > Parc Natural del Cap de Creus.
Day 12 14/06/00 Aiguamolls de L'Empordá
> Andorra.
Day 13 15/06/00 Aiguamolls de L'Empordá
> Barcelona.
Day 14 16/06/00 Aiguamolls de L'Empordá: Les
Llaunes, Cortal Can Comas, Estany Europa, Estany d’en Turies.
Day 15 17/06/00 Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Castelló d'Empúres > Figueres > Barcelona > London.
THE DIARY
Saturday 3 June 2000
London Stansted > Barcelona El Prat > Figueres > Castelló d'Empúries
> Camping Nautic Almata, Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l'Empordà
EL
PRAT AIRPORT, BARCELONA, 1530h
Strong heat
haze over the runway. Magpies and House
Sparrows on the runway and around the terminal building. Many pierid
butterflies.
EL
PRAT > SANTS ESTACIO, BARCELONA
Species
noted from the train through marginal farmland and suburban habitats on the
edge of the city: Stonechat, Swift, Magpie, and Starling.
BARCELONA
> FIGUERES, 1620-1815h
Species
noted from train journey through various agricultural areas: Swifts extremely
numerous particularly over rivers and around the edge of towns. Yellow-legged
Gulls over the river in Girona. Bee-eater hawking insects over a barley field
between Girona and Figueres. Several Turtle Doves on the outskirts of Figueres.
Goldfinch, Warbler sp., Magpie, Swallow, House Martin, Wood Pigeon, Feral
Pigeon, Starling, House Sparrow.
FIGUERES,
1820h
Had to wait
over an hour on a bus which goes to about ever village in L’alt Empordà area.
Several Serins singing from trees in the town square.
CASTELLÓ
D'EMPÚRIES, 2000h
Screaming
parties of Swifts racing over the old town. Numerous House Martins breeding.
TAXI
TO CAMPING NAUTIC ALMATA
Several
Black-winged Stilts and Mallards in wetland areas. At least 10 Night Herons
counted passing overhead. Fan-tailed Warblers song-flighting.
CAMPING
NAUTIC ALMATA, PARC NATURAL DELS AIGUAMOLLS DE L'EMPORDÀ, 2045h
Arrived
just before reception closed. Nightingales singing all over the campsite in a
parkland-like habitat of olive and strawberry trees, etc. Nightingales holding
territory along the main drive and just above tents and caravans. Four singing
males between the reception building and my pitch in zone six. As I began to
pitch the tent, two Night Herons passed overhead, followed by a flock of 15
Little Egrets. The boundary fence of the integral part of the reserve is also
the boundary of the campsite - just
a few metres from the tent - and the sights and sounds of a large expanse of wild
wetland were all around. Great Reed, Reed, Fan-tailed and Savi’s Warblers
singing from the reed bed. Goldfinches and House Sparrows in small trees around
the pitches. Yellow-legged Gulls passing overhead to roost. Cicadas and frogs
calling from dusk.
Sunday 4 June 2000
Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls de L'Empordá: Reserva Natural
Integral de Les Llaunes
Blue
sky, 26ºC, dense mist rolled in off the sea causing overcast
conditions between 1300-1500h.
Woke early, around 0600h, to a Nightingale singing in the tree next to
the tent. Set up
minidisc to record the dawn chorus. A Hoopoe singing/calling close by, at times
inaudible due to a much louder singing Cuckoo. Nearby reedbeds alive with
warbler song from Reed, Great Reed and Fan-tailed Warblers. Goldfinches singing
around the campsite. Got up at 0700h and went for a shower. Night Herons (13)
flying overhead. Egrets, herons and gulls making their way across the marshes
to feeding grounds. Nightingales singing all over the campsite. A Swallow’s
nest in the wooden supports of the shower block. Adult birds constantly flying
in and out, bringing food to a well grown brood of four chicks.
WALK TO LA MASSONA: AGUAIT
BRUEL 0800h
A saline
lagoon surrounded by glasswort and saltwort vegetation, five minutes walk from
the campsite. Observations from the trail leading
to the hide: Many Nightingales
singing - two juveniles in a small willow tree. Crested Larks (2-3) in a field
short turf, bare areas and longer grassland with Yellow Wagtails (Ad+juv).
Magpies common. Goldfinches common. Several displaying Fan-tailed Warblers,
some landing right at the path side a few feet away. Two singing male
Stonechats perched on the top of large reed stems. Savi’s Warbler ‘reeling’. Painted
Lady (Vanessa cardui) basking on the
track - already very warm. Hoopoe singing near the campsite reception
building. Several Cuckoos singing.
Observations from the hide:
Purple
Heron, flying left, 0800h. Several Swifts overhead. A Nightingale singing
almost inside the hide on a branch right at the window. Purple Heron, flying
left, 0809h. Another Purple Heron down onto lagoon-side reeds at 0811h. Marsh
Harrier flying low over the reed bed with nesting material (dried grasses)
trailing below. Female later hunting around
the edges of the water. Great Crested Grebe (1), Moorhen (1), Coot (2),
Mallards (13) in eclipse plumage. Black-winged Stilts (2) flying right at
0926h. Little Egret overhead at 0833h. Night Heron flying right at 0957h. Numerous
warblers along edges of the reed beds - Reed and Great Reed identified. Yellow-legged
Gull perched on very tall post. Starlings overhead. Purple Heron circling at
0900h. Went for breakfast. Great Tit at campsite shop.
TRACK TO GALL MARI HIDE 1020h
Yellow
Wagtails numerous in wet meadowland. Probably 30+ pairs breeding in one large
field. Around 20 nesting/feeding Black-winged Stilts. Little Egrets (4) loafing/roosting.
One occasionally feeding in an area of long waterlogged grassland, at times
chasing prey with wings raised. Hesperiidae
species nectaring on a thistle. Green-veined Whites (Pieris napi) numerous. Several Savi’s Warblers ‘reeling’ in this
habitat.
LA MASSONA: AGUAIT DEL GALL
MARI 1045-1135h
Purple
Swamp-Hens (Gallinule) breeding at this lagoon. One pair nesting in full view
at the waters edge. Also: Coot, Mallard, Moorhen, and Great Crested Grebe. Fan-tailed
Warblers very common - monotonous calls constant. Grey Heron overhead at
1105h. Black-winged Stilt, flying left,
1109h. Great Reed Warbler singing from a tree next to the hide. Marsh Harrier
hunting over the reed beds. Purple
Heron, flying right, 1114h. Purple Heron (2), flying left, 1116h. Black-winged
Stilt, overhead 1117h. several
singing Goldfinches in the surrounding scrub. Reed Warblers ‘popping-up’ on the
heads of reeds below the hide - song now died down at this time of day. Yellow-legged
Gull flew in and alighted on man-made island. Green-veined Whites numerous. Red-veined
Darters (Sympetrum fonscolombei) and
other sympetrums common.
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ: AGUAIT
CLOSA DEL PUIG 1145-1255h
Shallow
lagoon, now beginning to dry up. Cattle Egret (3) amongst the Little Egrets
(14). Grey Heron on the muddy bank. Crested
Lark running around the short turf and dried-out areas of the lagoon. Several
Mallards, Coot (pr+b/3), Yellow-legged Gull roosting. Bee-eaters (2) hawking
insects from 1220h. One bird almost caught a pierid species of butterfly. Sparrowhawk
overhead. Many large fish feeding along the lagoon edge. Two or three
Stonechats in the scrub and in open areas with rushy tussocks. Many
Nightingales singing here - more mature trees and thickets in this area. Tree
Sparrows buzzing back and forth in front of the hide. Male Kestrel hovering
briefly over the lagoon edge. Another single Coot with a newly hatched
juvenile. Also: Fan-tailed Warbler, Yellow Wagtail, Moorhen, Magpie, Swallow,
Swift, Starling. Cetti’s Warbler singing. A second Grey Heron arrived at 1232h.
One of the Bee-eaters later concentrating its feeding on the ground on a dry,
dusty eroded slope next to dust-bathing House Sparrows. Kentish Plover (1) and
Black-winged Stilt (1) overhead at 1242h, Stonechat (b/3). Stone Curlew appeared
from a dried out ditch onto the short turf. Then standing motionless before
settling down to roost. Black-lined Skimmers (Orthetrum cancellatum) common. Common Darters (Sympetrum striolatum) and Southern Darter (Sympetrum meridioale) noted.
Broad-bodied
Chasers (Libellula depressa) and
Four-spotted Chasers (Libellula
quadrimaculata) also present.
OBSERVATORI
SENILLOSA 1305-1515h
Excellent panoramic
views over the reserve and the whole Empordàn plain from one of the three rice
silos now converted into an observation tower. Estanys del Matà: Over 100 Black-winged Stilts
feeding and nesting on the disused rice fields below. Flock of 20+ Dunlin and several Kentish
Plovers in the muddy areas. Yellow Wagtail numerous. Little Egret feeding. Visible elsewhere: Cattle Egrets (18) in a field of
beef cattle. One bird on the back of a cow resting on the ground. Hoopoe flying
over dry field giving a great plan view. White Stork
(3) feeding in the area - in muddy field corners and large ditches. Many Swifts
hawking around the tower. A few House Martins. House Sparrows and Starlings
nesting in the smaller towers. Very useful for getting eye level views of
flying birds such as passing Purple Herons and White Storks. Fan-tailed
Warblers song-flighting up to the level of the top platform. Cetti’s, Great
Reed and Savi’s Warblers singing below. Another Hoopoe flying by, landing the
on
tarmac road between campsite and tower.
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ
From the trail: A minimum of 49 Little Stints and
seven Curlew Sandpipers feeding in mud and shallows. A stunning Scarlet
Dragonfly (Crocothemis erythraea)
hovering close by.
PATH TO EL CORTALET (REC
CORREDOR)
Nightingales
numerous in the thickets bordering the path and canal. At least 20 singing
males. Cleopatra (Gonepteryx cleopatra)
butterflies (2). Speckled Wood (Pararge
aegeria aegeria) and Holly Blue (Celastrina
argiolus) common. Sardinian
Warbler, singing male. Cetti’s Warblers, 3-4 singing males. Tree Sparrows
nesting in larger trees. Serin, Greenfinch and Goldfinch singing in the canopy.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT QUIM FRANCH 1645h
Freshwater
lagoon at the information centre. Little Bittern (m) flying low over the lagoon
just as arrived in the hide. Warbler song beginning to increase again from
Savi’s, Great Reed, Fan-tailed and Cetti’s Warblers. Marsh Harrier (male)
arrived and began hunting - immediately mobbed by a pair of Lapwings and
several Swallows. Cuckoo singing. Little
Grebes calling. Passing Yellow-legged Gulls mobbed by nesting Black-winged
Stilts. Another Little Bittern (m) flew out of vegetation just in front of the
hide, crossing the lagoon and giving good views on landing. Disappeared down
into a tall dense stand of reeds. Two adult Mute Swans arrived at 1705h. Grey
and Purple Herons passing overhead. Another Little Bittern (f) quickly followed
the first into the same site, two minutes later - probably a nest site. A few
broods of Mallards about. Many White Storks nesting in the area in specially
provided artificial platforms.
CLOSA DE LES MOLLEROSES
Stone
Curlew (2) in the dry area of the field behind El Cortalet Information Centre.
Several
Black-winged Stilts nesting in the wetter areas. Jackdaw (7) - a few chased off
by the Stone Curlews. Up to 10 birds present at the Bee-eater colony in the
sand bank. Crested Larks common here. Greenfinches on the track. Another seven
Bee-eaters over the next field and perched along the wire fencing.
EL CORTALET: AGUAIT DEL
RONCAIRES 1835h
Greater
Flamingo present - probably a late migrant or wandering non-breeder from the
Camargue or Ebro Delta. Several White Storks wading around with the flamingo.
Little
Crake calling from just in front of the hide. A pair of Black-winged Stilts
with two chicks. Purple Swamp-Hen (ad) present. A few Bee-eaters hawking over
the reeds. Minimum of
105 Mallards present. Swallows, Swifts and House Martins overhead. A further
57 Mallards arrived to roost by 1925h. Whiskered Tern, flying left at 1928h. More
Mallards arriving by the minute. Many Black-winged Stilts feeding in the
shallows. Usual warblers singing.
WALK BACK ALONG THE TRAIL TO
THE CAMPSITE 2100h
Melodious
Warblers and Blackcap singing near El Cortalet. Hoopoe carrying food, perched
in dead tree. Green Woodpecker heard calling. Kestrel hunting over fields with
the horses. Good views of a Cetti’s Warbler - the trail being quiet and free of
visitors now. Two Bee-eaters hawking over the scrape at Casot de La Bomba - another
small nesting colony here. Pheasants calling. Blue Tit, Serin, Tree Sparrow, and Cuckoo also noted. A male Montagu’s
Harrier passing overhead. Sardinian Warbler with three juveniles in scrub.
Monday
5 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, Cortal Can Comas, Estany
Europa, Estany d’en Turies
CAMPING
NAUTIC ALMATA TO EL CORTALET 1025-1205h
Three
species of lizard observed along the trail: Several small brown coloured
lizards with very long tails – Spanish or Large Psammodromus (Psammodromus hispanicus/algirus). Several
small green coloured lizards with dark band running along side of body - Common
Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis). One
very large and vibrant green coloured species near the Palleja hide - Ocellated
Lizard (Lacerta lepida). Cuckoo
singing from a dead tree in the marsh adjacent to the Palleja hide. Stonechats
(pr+b/3) in the open areas along the trail. Butterflies noted: Clouded Yellow
(Cloias crocea), Iberian Marbled
White (Melanargia lachesis), Holly
Blue. 'Club-tailed’
type dragonfly (Gomphus pulchellus)
sitting on the track at Mas Matà. Common Darter, Black-lined Skimmer.
TRAIL FROM EL CORTALET TO
CAN COMES
Black-winged
Stilts with chicks on the stony track. Two pairs with four to five juveniles. Adults
extremely noisy and agitated by my presence - flying constantly just overhead. Many Crested Larks singing. Short-toed
Larks, 2 singing males. Skylark, 1
singing male. A breeding colony of Bee-eaters found in the Closes de Mar - at least 10-12 birds around a two feet high
earth bank in an area of open farmland. Watched catching bees and wasps and hitting them of the branches of a
dead tree to remove the stings. Male birds observed feeding female in pair bond
rituals. Other species noted in the area: Nightingales, Kestrel, Cuckoo, Stonechat,
Collared Dove (3) at Can Comes farm. Wood Pigeon, Feral Rock Dove. Butterflies
common along the track: Southern Marbled Skipper (Carcharodus boeticus), Bath White (Pontia daplidice), Swallowtail (Papilio
machaon), Small White (Artogeia rapae),
Large White (Pieris brassicae), Dark
Green Fritillary (Argynnis aglaja),
Small Copper (Lycaena phlaeas), Iberian
Marbled White, Southern Gatekeeper (Pyronia
cecilia), Lulworth Skipper (Thymelicus
acteon), Clouded Yellow. Green Woodpecker feeding in an open area of olive
trees.
ESTANY EUROPA: AGUAIT DE LES
MILOQUES 1330-1500h
Yellow-legged
Gulls (87) loafing around the edges of the lagoon in the mid-day heat. Black-headed Gulls (pr) and Little Grebe (pr)
showing territorial behaviour. Black-winged Stilts (min 40) with several small
chicks among them. A few pairs of Coots, Moorhens and Mallards. Crested Larks
on the dried-up shores. Cattle Egret (1). Whiskered Tern, flying right at 1500h. Bee-eaters passing overhead and
feeding on insects just above the water surface.
TRAIL BACK TO CAN COMES
Hoopoe
perched in a dead tree with food for young. Cattle Egret (1). Corn Buntings
singing. Silver-studded Blue (Plebejus
argus).
TRAIL TO ESTANY D’EN TURIES
Great Spotted
Cuckoo and Red-legged Partridge observed.
AGUAIT DE L’ESTANY D’EN
TURIES 1540-1745h
Salt or
brackish lagoon with plenty of Glassworts and Sea Purslane vegetation. Kentish
Plover, Hoopoe, Crested Lark, Marsh Harrier (f), Kestrel (f), Yellow-legged
Gull, Little Egret (12) and several Stonechats. A few pairs of Black-winged
Stilts, Cattle Egrets passing, White Storks passing, Fan-tailed Warblers
common, Skylarks singing, Short-toed Lark singing Butterflies noted: Iberian
Marbled White, Small White, Large White, Small Heath (Coeonympha pamphilus), Berger’s Clouded Yellow (Colias alfacariensis), Wall Brown (Lasiommata megera), and Baton Blue (Pseudophilotes baton). Another two Great
Spotted Cuckoos just outside the hide. A pair if Red-legged Partridges in a
harvested cereal field. Two small earth mounds (less than two feet high) with
two Bee-eater nest holes each. Flock of 46 juvenile Starlings.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT
QUIM FRANCH
A male
Little Bittern in the same spot as 4/6/00. Purple Swamp-hen present.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT DE LES GANTES
Masses of Swifts
beginning to build to c2000 birds around 2000h. White Wagtail (2), Gadwall
(2ff), Teal (1m, 2ff), Marsh Harrier (m), Little Bittern (1). Good views of a
feeding Night Heron. A full grown adult Wild Boar (Sus scrofa) trotting through the lagoon. Fallow Deer (Dama dama) (3) wading through the
shallows between cover. Mallard roost forming. Several Storks and Stilts feeding in the shallows. Whiskered Tern,
flying right at 2010h. Mute Swan (pr), Little Grebes, Moorhens, Little Egret
(2), Swallows (c50), Coots. Breeding colony of Grey Herons with many
adult-sized juveniles.
OBSERVATORI DE LES DANES
At least 15
White Storks nests visible. Cattle Egrets (5) feeding with cows. Fallow Deer (1).
Cetti’s Warbler singing. Savi’s Warbler singing in the marsh on the opposite
side of the track.
CASOT DE LA BOMBA 2051h
Corn Buntings
singing in rushy pasture. Cuckoo singing. Swifts hawking overhead. Blackcap feeding on berries in hedgerow. Blackbird
singing - fairly scarce on the reserve, Stonechat, Kestrel and Tree Sparrow. Singing
male Sardinian Warbler at same location as last night, 2103h.
OBSERVATORI
PALLEJÀ 2110h
Purple
Herons and Night Herons passing left over the marshes. A male Marsh Harrier
hunting before dusk. Yellow Wagtail, Crested Lark and Cuckoo present. 2123h: An
adult male Montagu’s Harrier hunting in front of the hide, particularly over reed
beds and scrub. Little Egret (7), flying right at 2124h. Purple Heron flying
right at 2125h. Pheasants calling, Tree Sparrows calling and Cetti’s Warblers
singing.
Tuesday 6 June 2000
Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Reserva Natural Illa de Caramany -
Fluvia, Sant Pere Pescador, Estany del Matà
Partly
cloudy, 25ºC, very stong northerly (tramuntana) wind
at times.
WOODLANDS
ALONG THE RIO FLUVIÀ BETWEEN THE COAST AND SAN PERE PESCADOR
A large clearing with private
holiday homes in old oak woodland: Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers present - a female feeding a
juvenile. Bee-eaters, Green Woodpecker, Nightingale and several Swallows. Spotted
Flycatcher feeding from a large tree over-hanging the river. Goldfinches
numerous in this habitat as elsewhere. Cetti’s Warblers singing from mature
woodland. Long-tailed Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit. Little Egret overhead.
Area of poplar plantations:
Golden
Oriole (f) flying low over a meadow between two poplar plantations. More
Bee-eaters in this area with Cattle Egrets and Swallows also present.
Edge of a field of sunflowers: Colony of
Bee-eater, Greenfinch, House Sparrows and Hoopoes feeding.
El Fluvià (river): Mallard,
Coot, Feral Rock Dove, Yellow-legged Gull. Swifts, Swallows and House Martins
overhead. Sand Martin colonies common along certain areas of the riverbank. Serins
singing from gardens in San Pere Pescador. A Hoopoe feeding on the lawn of one
large garden. Collard Doves singing from T.V. aerials. Purple Heron passing
overhead. Goldfinches (mostly juveniles) feeding on thistles in a waste area/undeveloped
plot between two houses.
Scrub and poplars on the other
riverbank, upstream of San Pere Pescador:
Melodious
Warblers, Cetti’s Warblers and Nightingales singing. Green Woodpecker feeding
on the ground below an apple orchard.
WALK
BACK ALONG THE GIV-6216 (SAN PERE PESCADOR > CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES ROAD)
TO THE RESERVE
Hoopoe
feeding on a lawn in a garden centre along the road out of the
village. Ortolan Bunting singing from the edge of an apple orchard,
200 metres further along. Bee-eater catching insects over an
area of wheat production. Also a Common Kestrel here. Picked
up a large white heron flying over which dropped height and
landed in a nearby field c400 metres - Great White Egret! Crested
Lark whistling from a farm track crossing a cereal field.
ACCESS
ROAD LEADING TO NAUTIC ALMATA CAMPSITE
Purple
Heron overhad. Nightingales singing from scrub. Fan-tailed Warbler,
Yellow Wagtail, Stonechat, Starling, Kestrel, Song Thrush, Greenfinch,
Serin, Barn Swallow, House Martin, Goldfinch, House Sparrow,
and Yellow-legged Gull noted.
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ
1910-2105h
Little Stint (30+). Curlew Sandpiper (5+). Ringed Plover (1). Several
Sand Martins feeding in the company of Barn Swallows. Cattle
Egret (38). Little Egret (13). White Stork (3). Purple Heron
(1). Grey Heron (1). Black-winged Stilt (100+). Whiskered Tern
(7 ads + 2 juvs). Hoopoe feeding by a cattle trough.
OBSERVATORI
PALLEJÀ 2115-2130h
Movements:
Purple Heron flew right followed by a Grey Heron flying left
and then seven Night Herons back and forth. A total of 53 Starlings flew
past to a roost site in the reedbed during the fifteen minutes.
Tree Sparrow noted.
Wednesday
7 June 2000
Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, Estany d’en Turies.
Blue
sky, 26-27ºC, northerly wind decreasing.
LA MASSONA: AGUAIT DEL GALL MARI 1215-1250h
Black Kite
circling high overhead. Marsh Harrier hunting. Purple Heron (1, flying left,
1231h). Swallowtail passed by at 1240h. Great Reed Warbler singing. Mallard
(6), Coot (4), Yellow Wagtails passing, Marsh Harrier (2) hunting from 1250h. Purple Heron overhead at
1241h. Kingfisher c40-50 metres up in a dead tree above the reedbed opposite
Mas Matà. This is the highest above the ground I have seen one perched.
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ (old rice
fields) 1300-1340h
Gull-billed
Terns (2), both adult birds, now present. Much larger than Whiskered Terns,
paler upperparts, large/heavy beak and more extensive black cap. Also new in:
Black-tailed Godwit (3), Wood Sandpiper (1), Redshank (1), and Kentish Plover
(1). Whiskered Tern (7-8), Ringed Plover (2), Black-winged Stilt (100+), Little
Stint (30+). Plus the other usual waterbirds present. Sand Martin, Swift,
Swallow, House Martin, Yellow Wagtail, Savi’s Warbler, Goldfinch, Pheasant,
Nightingale, Stonechat.
OBSERVATORI
PALLEJÀ 1345-1430h
Alpine Swift
(2) north overhead at 1411h. Reed Warbler, Purple Heron, Serin, Swift, Cetti’s
Warbler, White Stork, Grey Heron, Fan-tailed Warbler, House Sparrow, Stonechat,
Coot, Nightingale, Goldfinch, Yellow Wagtail, Black-winged Stilt, Sardinian Warbler,
Hoopoe, Swallow, Kestrel, Melodious Warbler, Great Reed Warbler, Pheasant,
Cattle Egret, Greenfinch, Little Egret, Marsh Harrier, Mallard and Cuckoo all
observed.
TRAIL TO EL CORTALET
Pair of
Linnets in the open area of fields/pasture and scrub. Butterflies noted: Iberian
Marbled White, Orange Tip (Anthocharis
cardamines), Large Skipper (Ochlodes
venatus), Holly Blue, Small White, Large White, Queen of Spain Fritillary (Issoria lathonia), Small Heath, Speckled
Wood and Red Admiral (Vanessa atalanta).
Sardinian Warblers calling and Serins singing. Corn Buntings singing.
Fan-tailed Warblers singing. Tree Sparrows nesting in dead trees. Crested Lark
(2) on the track. Nightingales singing. Swifts
overhead. Stonechats common. Bee-eater, Reed Warbler, Magpie, Cuckoo, House
Sparrow, Greenfinch and Blackbird also noted.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT QUIM FRANCH
At least
four Whiskered Terns feeding over the freshwater lagoon. Female Marsh Harrier
mobbed by Black-winged Stilts, Yellow-wagtails and Swallows. Gadwall (f+b/3),
Little Grebe (pair), Purple Gallinule (1), Coot (b/1). Great Reed Warbler
singing from the very small island in front of the hide. Bee-eaters and
Black-winged Stilts passing all the time. White Storks circling. Mallard
(f+b/9), Grey Heron, Little Egret, Cuckoo, Greenfinch, Sand Martin (30+),
Savi’s Warbler, House Martin, Mute Swan (pair), Fallow Deer (3), Yellow-legged
Gull, Magpie and Swift noted. A pair of Marsh Harriers flew down into the
reedbed - probable nest site c300m away.
CAN COMES TRAIL 1740
Pallid
Swift (2) heading north, low over head. Clouded Yellows common. Bee-eater,
Crested Lark, Stonechat, Skylark, Linnet, Yellow Wagtail. Stone Curlew
disturbed from sandy soil beside the track.
AGUAIT DE L’ESTANY D’EN
TURIES 1830-1910h
Great
Spotted Cuckoo perched in scrub around 300 metres away for 30 minutes before
flying off in an area of mainly tamarisks, olives and holm oak. Black-winged Stilt
(b/2), Kentish Plover (1), Mallard (3), Little Egret (7). Stonechats common,
Skylarks singing, Yellow-legged Gull (2), Nightingale, Fan-tailed Warbler,
Magpie, at least (50) Swifts overhead, one positively identified as a Pallid
Swift. Another Great Spotted Cuckoo perched in a tree on the track leading to
the hide. Took off and flew straight towards me, passing within a few metres.
Red-legged Partridge (1). Eventually found a Lesser Grey Shrike at 1935h. Bird first observed flying from reserva
integral perimeter fence to isolated line of wind beaten (and some dead) trees.
Difficult to follow as it moved between trees but eventually settled on a small
dead tree. Great views obtained. At 1949h it looked as if it was choking but
then coughed up a small pellet. After it had disappeared around eight, I went
to look at the pellet and found masses of pellets and droppings below the tree.
Obviously it is a regular spot. Pellets composed mainly of beetle wing cases. Also
some bits of small rodents so probably used by other shrike species. Later
watched the bird at closer range on the fence (with a Stone Curlew in the
background in the same ‘scope field of view). It darted off, taking some prey
on the sandy soil. Lapwing (2), Painted Lady (1).
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT DE LES GANTES 2055h
A pair of
Purple Swamp-Hens present. Juvenile Night Heron feeding along the edge of one
of the islands. Gadwall (f+b/3), Mallard (100+), Teal (2prs), Mute Swan (pr).
Adult Night
Heron in at 2114h. Black-winged Stilt (22) flying left at 2217h. Great Reed,
Cetti’s and Reed Warblers singing. White Wagtail (1). Kestrel overhead. Several Grey Herons and White Storks feeding.
Night Heron (3) flying left at 2130h. Swallow
flock overhead numbering over 100 birds at 2130h. Made some sound recordings on
minidisc. Night Heron (6) overhead near the Bomba hide. Tawny Owl hunting along
the hedgerow and scrub in the open area along the trail to the old rice
paddies. Greater Flamingo (2) flying in from the west to the reserve at 2220h.
Thursday
8 June 2000
Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Les Llaunes, El Cortalet > Castelló d’Empúries (GR 92 footpath).
Blue
sky, max 27ºC, light easterly wind.
WALK TO MAS
MATÀ 0700h
Made some
sound recordings onto minidisc. Greater Flamingo (3) on the disused rice paddies
at Mas Matà.
OBSERVATORI
PALLEJÀ
Orphean
Warbler (pr) observed just metres away, flitting about the scrub and trees.
Water Rail calling from the large reed-covered channel under the hide walkway.
Reed Warblers all over the reedbeds – singing from the tops at this time of the
morning. Great Reed Warblers singing from small bushes on more prominent positions
than there smaller relatives.
MAS MATÀ
Gull-billed
Tern (1), Whiskered Tern (2), Curlew Sandpiper (2), Little Stint (min 10),
Redshank (3), Kentish Plover (ad + juv), Black-tailed Godwit (3), and Ringed
Plover (2).
PATH TO EL CORTALET
Pheasant
(f+b/2). Meadow Brown (Maniola jurtina),
Large White, Large Skipper, Speckled Wood, Holly Blue, Small White. Red-veined
Darters (S. fonscolombei) numerous.
One stork nest with three large juveniles.
GR-92 LONG DISTANCE FOOTPATH
TO CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES (3.5 km)
Footpath
through agricultural areas of wheat, sunflowers and orchards, etc. Hoopoe
perched on telegraph wire at a farm near El Cortalet. Another Hoopoe singing
500 metres along the road. Jackdaw (2) overhead. Turtle Doves singing. In
hedgerow: Nightingale, Cetti’s Warbler, Goldfinch and House Sparrow. Crested
Larks running in the field furrows of a young sunflower crop. Barn Swallow,
Common Swift, House Martin and Magpie overhead. Masses of butterflies nectaring
on bramble growing along the hedgerow: Iberian Marbled White, Large White,
Small White, Holly Blue, Scarce Swallowtail (Iphiclides podalirius), Speckled Wood, Large Skipper, Wall, and
Clouded Yellow. Quail calling from farmland around the border of a young
sunflower and wheat field. Purple Heron, Bee-eater and Starling overhead.
Another Quail calling from a wheat field 100 metres further on. White Stork and
Feral Pigeon overhead. Hummingbird Hawk Moth (Macroglossum stellatarum) nectaring on trackside flowers.
Blackbirds in apple orchards. Serins song-flighting from poplar trees. Carrion
Crow near Castelló. Nightingale singing from apple trees in an orchard near the
town. Yellow Wagtails in maize crop.
CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES
Hobby (ad)
watched circling over the edge of the town, mobbed by Swallows before diving
down into a lightly wooded area. Crested Larks and Serins fairly common around
the town.
WALK BACK TO EL CORTALET
Stonechats
in sunflower fields. Hoopoe calling at Cortal d’Avinyó. Tree Sparrows in the
apple orchards.
EL CORTALET: AGUAIT DEL
RONCAIRES, 1825-2035h
Whiskered
Tern (7), Black-tailed Godwit (1), Black-winged Stilt (8), Lapwing (3), Gadwall
(f), Cuckoo singing, Greylag Goose (1) and Mute Swan (pr). At least 157
Mallards in view – most males now in eclipse plumage. A female Marsh Harrier
watched carrying nesting material of dry grasses into the same site where
activity was noted yesterday –an area where the reeds have been left uncut last
autumn, less than 100 metres from the hide. On the seaward side is a line of
scrub and trees. Later observed regularly carrying in large twigs, stems and
dry reed-canes – one twice the length of the harrier’s body. The male arrived
at 1941h, circled over the area and settled down at the nest site. White Stork
(2). Two singing male Great Reed Warblers in front of the hide. Cattle Egrets
moving overhead. Coot. Moorhen. Reed, Cetti’s and Fan-tailed Warblers singing.
Goldfinch. White Wagtail. Starling. Yellow Wagtail. House Sparrow. Swift. Barn
Swallow. House Martin. Magpie. Yellow-legged Gull. Grey Heron. Nightingale. Bee-eater.
Little Egret. Jackdaw. Night Heron (circling at 2007h). Water Rail (calling).
Purple Swamp-hen. Little Ringed Plover passed at 2023h. Black-headed Gull.
Sand Martin. Blackbird.
LARGE FIELD OPPOSITE START
OF CAN COMES TRAIL
Stone
Curlew (pr) observed at fairly close range. Weird-looking birds – the eyes are
just not bird-like, more feline. Green Woodpecker perched on the ruined
building, 1 km further along the trail. Bee-eaters dust-bathing in dry soil.
TRAIL FROM EL CORTALET TO
CAMPSITE 1057h>
Observation
around a freshly cut hay field, c100 metres from centre: Another pair of Stone
Curlews, White Stork (2), Cattle Egret (1) and several Tree Sparrow broods.
Minimum of 48 Cattle Egrets roosting scrub around the El Cortalet lagoon –
observed from the Les Gantes hide. Purple Swamp-hens (pr) perched about six
feet up in the reeds on a flattened platform. More Cattle Egrets arrived to
roost at 2130h including a Squacco Heron – an adult bird, landing right at the
top giving good views. Also a few Little Egrets.
MAS MATÀ 2205-2230h
Collared
Pratincole hawking insects at dusk over the old rice paddies – mainly over open
water but also over adjacent marshy ground. First picked put as it flew close
past the fence showing distinctive dark wings, white rump and forked tail. Also
a Common Sandpiper (1) new on. Black-tailed Godwit (4). Night Heron (3). Marsh
Frog (Rana ridibunda), Common Tree
Frog (Hyla arborea), and
Stripeless Tree
Frog (Hyla meridionalis)
found.
Friday
9 June 2000
Parc
Natural del Aiguamolls
de L'Empordá: Les Llaunes > Reserva Natural Integral dels Estanys (Vilaüt).
Blue
sky, partly cloudy after 2000h, max 26ºC, light southerly
wind.
TRAIL FROM
CAMPSITE TO EL CORTALET 0900h
Species
noted: Cuckoo, Stonechat, Nightingale, Reed Warbler, Savi’s Warbler,
Black-winged Stilt, Pheasant, Whiskered Tern, Little Stint, Mallard, Purple
Heron, Crested Lark, Serin, Yellow Wagtail, Coot, Starling, Garden Warbler
singing near Palleja hide, Cetti’s Warbler, Kingfisher in the channel at the
Palleja hide, Emperor Dragonfly (Anax
imperator), Little Grebe, Moorhen, Coot, Fan-tailed Warbler, Swift, Great
Reed Warbler, Blackcap, Cattle Egret, Tree Sparrow, Goldfinch, House Sparrow,
Yellow-legged Gull, Swallow, House Martin, Great Tit, White Stork and
Greenfinch.
GR-92 LONG DISTANCE FOOTPATH
TO CASTELLÓ D’EMPÚRIES (3.5 km) 1010h
Stone
Curlews (pr) in a field of tilled soil c200 metres along the road leading out
of the main reserve entrance at El Cortalet. Crested Lark and White Wagtails
along the road. Tree Sparrow. Goldfinch. Bee-eater. Swift. House Sparrow. Olivaceous
Warbler singing from the top of thick, scrubby hedgerow and the telegraph wire
running low overhead. A little like a Reed Warbler and bill quite
proportionately large. Song fairly fast with fluty and harsh note run together
in phrase lasting five to ten seconds. Parts of the phrases repeated in cycles.
White Stork. Serin. Starling. Sardinian Warbler with food. Little Owl watched
at close range in an apple orchard along the trail. Perched on a large stump
used to connect wire supports along rows of trees. Looked straight at me for
around two minutes before flying off high into a poplar.
GR-92 FOOTAPTH: CASTELLÓ
D’EMPÚRIES > ESTANY DE VILAÜT 1155h
Got lost
several times trying to follow the GR signposts – not well marked through the
agricultural areas of sunflowers, wheat, maize, etc. Hoopoe, Nightingale, Barn
Swallow, White Stork, Tree Sparrow, Collared Dove, Magpie and House Sparrow
noted. Roller observed flying between large isolated mature trees bordering a
field of sunflowers in the Closa de la Vila area. Soon after a Short-toed Eagle
flapped leisurely overhead. A total of 15 Bee-eaters counted along this section
of the trail. Eventually reached the second main reserve area, the Reserva
Integral 1.
EL ESTANYS
Marsh
Harrier (m) searching over a large cereal field on the edge of the wetland area
here. Olivaceous Warbler watched singing from a deciduous area of rowan and
ash. Cetti’s and Reed Warblers singing in the second channel at the area known
as the Three Bridges. A Purple Heron
in the next channel.
ESTANY DE VILAÜT 1415-1643h
The lagoon
and wetland area here was completely dried up. Woodchat Shrike observed feeding
from a dead tree, c150 metres from the hide. The shrike was watching the
surrounding patchy terrain of bare and grassy areas before regularly flying
down to the ground and returning to its perch with prey. At least two
Short-toed Eagles hunting in the area. One bird was flying high with and
dwarfing a Kestrel. Several Bee-eaters in the area. Hoopoes – three observed
feeding together in sandy soil below a large cork oak tree. Great Spotted
Cuckoo (ad) disturbed from a large cork oak tree – flew off uttering harsh
calls. The hide was at least good for exceptionally close views of breeding
Corn Buntings, Thekla Lark and Tree Sparrows. Nightingale, Fan-tailed Warbler,
Swift, Goldfinch, House Sparrow, Barn Swallow, House Martin also noted. A pair
of White Storks with a nest on top of a pylon. At least 15 Swallowtail
butterflies counted in five minutes in the Tres Ponts Three Bridges area – several canalised waterways cutting through an
impressive reeedbed area. Several Painted Ladies and Clouded Yellows, Common
Blue (Polyommatus icarus), Peacock (Inachis io), Iberian Marbled White,
Wall, Small Skipper (Thymelicus
sylvestris), Essex Skipper (Thymelicus
lineola) Speckled Wood, Southern Marbled Skipper and Meadow Brown. Flock of
18 Cattle Egrets feeding in an open, undulating area of recently mown hay
meadows broken up with large boulders and rough grassland. Spanish Gatekeeper (Pyronia bathsheba) observed on the road
where the GR-92 footpath crosses the Castelló-Roses road. Female Marsh Harrier
hunting over a field of oats. The pair of Short-toed Eagles appeared overhead
again, some distance from the first area, between 1725 and 1736h – great views
of the face and underparts. Also noted in the more intensive cereal areas:
Crested Lark, Kestrel, Serin, Goldfinch, Fan-tailed Warbler, Iberian Marbled
White abundant along the verges, House Sparrow, Barn Swallow, Swift, House
Martin and Tree Sparrow.
EL CORTALET 1935h
Comma on
bramble trailing along the path.
EL CORTALET, AGUAIT DE LES
GANTES 2003-2127h
Black Tern
(ad) hawking over the lagoon. Much more energetic feeder than the Whiskered
Terns. Erratic twists and turns and sudden dips to the water surface. It
covered a larger area when feeding too – hovering much less over particular
areas as the Whiskered Terns (two present) do. Top of the Bee-eater colony
visible from here. Greater Flamingo (3). Night Heron, Black-winged Stilt,
Mallard (b/9, b/2), Coot, Cuckoo, Barn Swallow, White Stork, Nightingale,
Little Bittern (m + f), Yellow-legged Gull, Swift, House Sparrow, Cetti’s Warbler,
Cattle Egret, Grey Heron, Bee-eater, White Wagtail, Goldfinch, Little Egret,
Greenfinch, Great Reed Warbler, Marsh Harrier, Kestrel, Wood Pigeon, Mute Swan,
Sand Martin, Starling, House Martin, Purple Heron, Serin, Little Grebe, Reed
Warbler, Magpie, Shoveler (male in breeding plumage), Purple Swamp-hen (pr),
Savi’s Warbler, Great Tit, Fan-tailed Warbler, and Sardinian Warbler all noted.
MAS MATÀ 2135-2205h
Collared
Pratincole still present. Hawking energetically, non-stop, and spooking the
stilts from hidden locations in the marsh vegetation. Whiskered Tern (4).
Several Night Herons flying in to feed. Numerous bats appearing after 2200h and
another frog chorus to round off the day again.
Saturday
10 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá: Rained out!!! Camping Nautic Almata all day!
After a
week of superb weather, the Tramuntana began to blow and it rained all day! My brother and friend were flying over today and by the time they
arrived in a hire car at dusk they were wheel-spinning in the mud! Didn’t
venture out but heard Great Reed Warbler, Nightingale and Fan-tailed Warbler
from the tent during periods of less intense rainfall.
Sunday
11 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá > Besalú, Garrotxa
Showers, partly cloudy with
strong north-northeast winds increasing.
DROVE TO THE HISTORIC VILLAGE OF BESALÚ
IN GARROTXA PROVINCE
Short-toed
Eagles (2) perched on telegraph poles in the hills near Barcelona. Booted Eagle between Barcelona
and Besalú. At least 300 hirundines
over Besalú. Ringed Plovers in a sandy field adjacent to the confluence of the
Fluvià and Capellada
Rivers – quite possibly flooded out from a
shingle bank nest site on the river. Blackbirds much more common in this area
in comparison with Castelló. At least 200 pairs of House Martins nesting above
the cobbled streets. The concentrations of nests were so high on some buildings
that they were fixed onto each other to form a superstructure. Moorhen with
juveniles on a well-vegetated bank of the river. Grey Wagtail feeding along the
edge of a shingle bank near the 11th century bridge.
Monday
12 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá
> Montserrat > Cardona
Gale force north-easterly
winds, 17ºC,
cool
and cloudy.
MAS MATÀ 0845-0930h
Species
present: Grey Plover (1), Little Stint, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper, Collared
Pratincole, Black-winged Stilt, Purple Swamp-hen, Redshank, Purple Heron,
Little Egret, Cattle Egret, Yellow Wagtail, Whiskered Tern, White Stork,
Kestrel, Yellow-legged Gull, Coot (b/3), Nightingale, Fan-tailed Warbler,
Mallard, Black-headed Gull, Grey Heron, Reed Warbler, Cuckoo, Crested Lark and
Hoopoe.
DRIVE TO MONTSERRAT 1000h
As we were
leaving the campsite this morning I noticed a sorry-looking female Little
Bittern near the reception centre and got out to check on it. It looked a bit
wind battered but soon flew off towards the reserve. Species noticed on the
drive: Lesser Black-backed Gull, White Stork, Wood Pigeon, Magpie, Swift, Barn
Swallow, House Martin, Cattle Egret and Crested Lark.
SERVICE AREA/STATION: AREA DE LA
SELVA
Quick walk
around the service area in stone pine/oak woodland with some deciduous
understorey produced Crested Tit, Firecrest, Bonelli’s Warbler, Short-toed
Treecreeper, Sardinian Warbler, Serin, Blackcap, Blue Tit, Coal Tit, Great Tit,
Wren, Goldcrest and Robin.
SERVICE AREA/STATION: AREA DE GIRONES
Blue Rock
Thrush singing, Hoopoe, Crested Lark, and
Serin noted. Swallowtail, Common Blue, Western Marbled White (Melanargia occitancia), Meadow Brown,
Painted Lady and Clouded Yellow.
MONTSERRAT
We intended
to visit the famous monastery (Monestir de Montserrat) in the serrated mountain but part (or part) of
the road up had been completely ripped up and washed away by the atrocious
weather of the past few days! Grey Wagtail noted on a nearby river.
CARDONA 1540h
Visited the
13th century hilltop castle with views over to a salt mine in the
Muntanya de Sal. Observations around the castle: Nightingale, Serin, Sardinian
Warbler, House Martin, and Blue Tit noted. Southern White Admiral (Limenitis reducta) and Swallowtails
fairly common. Spanish Gatekeeper, Scarce Swallowtail, Wall, Small Copper,
Holly Blue, Red Admiral, Painted Lady, Small White, Common Blue, Large White
and Meadow Brown noted. Iberian Wall Lizard and Moorish Gecko.
DRIVE BACK TO THE CAMPSITE
Stock Dove
noted, 15 km from Vic. Raven at the Les Fosses tunnel. Greater Flamingo (3) on
the pool near the Nautic Almata campsite gates at 2215h.
Tuesday
13 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Roses > Cadaqués > Parc Natural del Cap de Creus
Blue skies, 28°C, back to
light easterly winds.
Finally a
return to fine weather over the Empordàn plain. Drove to Roses at the north end of the Golf de Roses then on to
Cadaqués. From here I walked the 16km there and back to the prominent,
windswept, headland of Cap de Creus just south of the French border. Complete
change of habitat from the marshes today to garrigue, macquis
and cistus scrub.
CADAQUÉS > CAP DE CREUS
1100-1700h
Sardinian
Warblers common in olive groves and scrub surrounding the town. Serins also
very common. Nightingale singing from scrub along a dried-up riverbed. Several
pairs of Red-rumped Swallows nesting in the stone supports of a road bridge. Blue Rock
Thrush singing from a small gorge. Goldfinches common. Great Spotted Cuckoo –
juvenile bird observed from above, flying between dead/burnt vegetation. Orange wings striking – more colourful
plumage than the adult. Rock Sparrow (2) watched feeding on a stony track
leading off the main road onto the hill. Thekla Lark singing from a large rock
on a hillside clothed with low, thorny scrub. Pallid Swift (4) overhead. House
Sparrows and Serins in the olive groves. Another Blue Rock Thrush seen. A
Woodchat Shrike flew across in front of me and began singing from the crown of
a nearby stone pine tree. Several Crested, Thekla and Short-toed Larks heard
along the road to the lighthouse. Subalpine Warbler singing – not seen, but a
female was observed carrying food for the young. Mixed aggregation of Pallid
Swifts (20+), House Martins (5) and Red-rumped Swallows (2). Several Moorish
Geckos observed in rocky areas, particularly near the roadside. Excellent views
of a Woodchat Shrike through the ‘scope in an area of flat grassland with
sparse bushes. Also in this area, a pair of Tawny Pipits watched just metres
away. Spectacled Warbler singing from an area of tamarisks. A few more Tawny
Pipits found higher up along the road. Several Dartford Warblers singing in
sheltered areas. Linnet (pr) drinking at a small pool with reed in a damp
gorge. Arrived at the lighthouse and a quick five minute scan of the sea
produced Mediterranean Shearwater (14), Cory’s Shearwater (1) and Cormorant
(4). Acanthus-leaved Carline Thistles (Carlina
acanthifolia) and Globe Thistles (Echinops
rito) common. Large colonies of Yellow-legged Gulls breeding on the rocks
offshore. Several Shags with large juveniles on the biggest islet. Black-eared
Wheatear singing from a rocky outcrop amongst the garrigue, later displaying in
flight by circling the area. Peregrine watched overhead – landed on a small
electricity pylon running to the lighthouse. Common or Iberian Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis/hispanica) found. Female Black-eared Wheatear later found. Also
noted around the lighthouse: Rock Dove, Common Kestrel, Serin, House Sparrow,
Sardinian Warbler, Blackbird, Magpie, Common Swift, and Barn Swallow. Butterflies:
Southern Small White (Artogeia mannii),
Cleopatra, Spanish Gatekeeper, Clouded Yellow, Holly Blue, Painted Lady, Red
Admiral, Common Blue and Brimstone (Gonepteryx
rhamni). On the road back a Firecrest was found in a small pine wood along
with several Serins and a Sardinian Warbler carrying food. Male Lesser Kestrel
found hunting in a small valley. Corn Buntings fairly common. Minimum of 58
Pallid Swifts over Cadaqués in the evening. Began to form one large screaming flock at 2100h, circling over the town
before ascending into the sky to roost at dusk.
Wednesday
14 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de L'Empordá
> Andorra.
Partly cloudy, 12°C above
1800m, 23°C in the lowlands.
FROM TENT
0700h
Observations from the
tent, over the reserve: Fan-tailed Warbler, Yellow-legged Gull, Great Reed
Warbler, Cuckoo, House Sparrow, Goldfinch, Reed Warbler, Cetti’s Warbler, Nightingale,
Starling, Swift, Great Tit, Serin, Greenfinch, Savi’s Warbler, Purple Heron,
Mallard, Grey Heron, Barn Swallow, Blue Tit and Little Bittern (m).
DRIVE TO ANDORRA 0915-1345h
Several Jays flying
through wooded valleys near Vic. Stopped off at a service area in the
pre-Pyrenees. A Quail calling from a nice flowery meadow nearby along with
singing Corn Buntings, Yellowhammer, Serin, Song Thrush, Robin, Blackbird,
Chaffinch, Dunnock and Wren. Silver-studded Blue and Small Heath butterflies
common. Raven (6) overhead and a Magpie nearby.
SANT JULIA, ANDORRA
Crag Martins feeding
over the town of Sant Julia and nesting in the taller
buildings. Grey Wagtail and White Wagtail on the river. A Hummingbird Hawk Moth
nectaring in a flowerbed in the town centre. Nightingales singing from riverine
scrub. Honey Buzzard observed soaring above steep, wooded slopes above the
town. Crag Martins (100+) and Pallid Swifts (40-50) over the town of Andorra-la-Vella in the evening between 2050a and
2120h.
LA RABASSA,
ANDORRA
1800h
Cool (c12°C) and cloudy with no sun here at 2000m. Crossbills
common in the conifer woods around the cross-country ski station. Blackbirds
singing. Black Redstart (pr + b/3). Ring Ouzel singing. Great Spotted
Woodpecker overhead. Firecrests fairly common in pines. Yellowhammer, Serin,
Wren, Robin and Dunnock singing. Mistle Thrush (2) overhead. Ring Ouzel nest
found in a mountain pine – observed both adults bringing food for the
offspring. Superb view of a male Red-backed Shrike perched in juniper scrub and
shrubby pines. Woodlarks displaying in the open areas. Watched a pair of Cirl
Buntings at two to three metres range – not at all disturbed by my presence. A
flock of 10 Crossbills flew over. Treecreeper, Goldcrest, Coal Tit, Blue Tit,
and Great Tit noted. Raven overhead.
Thursday
15 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Barcelona
Blue sky, max 28°C,
light easterly wind.
BARCELONA
Did the
usual tourist attractions. Lang’s Short-tailed Blues (Leptotes pirithous) common all over the city centre parks and
flower beds. Long-tailed Blues (Lampides
boeticus) also common, particularly around the futbol stadium. Black
Redstart, Alpine Swift, Common Swift, House Martin, House Sparrow and Feral
Pigeon noted in the city. Went to hear Radiohead in concert in the evening. On
the drive back in the evening a Barn Owl crossed over the road in front of us
on the A-19 near the first main town north of the city.
Friday
16 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá: Les
Llaunes, Cortal Can Comas, Estany Europa, Estany d’en Turies.
Blue sky, max 27°C, virutally
no wind.
WALK TO AGUAIT BRUEL
1030-1042h
Nightingale,
5 singing mm between my tent (in zone 6) and campsite reception building.
Stonechat, Serin, Crested Lark, Reed Warbler and Purple Heron overhead.
AGUAIT BRUEL 1042-1115h
Purple
Swamp-hen (1). Mallard (32). Coot (1). Nightingale singing. Yellow Wagtail.
Little Egret passed by at 1058h. Purple Heron passed at 1100h. Fan-tailed
Warbler. Moustached Warbler singing from the edge of a large reedbed. Tree Sparrow
carrying food back and forth between the reedbed and scrub on dry land. Another
Purple Heron passed by at 1106h. Goldfinch. Yellow-legged Gull. Great Crested
Grebe (1). Barn Swallow.
AGUAIT DELL GALL MARI
1125-1140h
Bee-eater
(2). Purple Heron passed by at 1136h. Kentish Plover (2). Mallard (7). Coot
(pr).
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ 1141-1250h
Slender-billed
Gulls (6) feeding in the shallow, disused rice paddies. All birds in beautiful
adult plumage: distinctive elongated look of the head apparent with a long,
thin, tern-like beak. Feeding behaviour particularly graceful. The
slender-bills also fed very close to the stilt chicks with no aggressive
defensive behaviour from the adult stilts (unlike when Yellow-legged Gulls
appeared). Also 18 Whiskered Terns present (17 ads + 1 juv) and a single
Black-headed Gull. Avocet (3) feeding in a small group amongst the 100 or so
Black-winged Stilts. Redshank (1). Little Egret. Purple Heron. White Stork.
Purple Swamp-hen. Reed Warbler. Yellow Wagtail. Coot. Fan-tailed Warbler.
Nightingale. Goldfinch. Barn Swallow. Swift. Tree Sparrow. Sand Martin.
Swallowtail.
AGUAIT CLOSA DEL PUIG 1250-1349h
Cattle
Egrets (15) following a group of cattle around the lagoon. Stone Curlew (1)
standing around on the grazed grassland – doing not a lot for about 40 minutes.
Marsh Harrier (imm) passed by at 1257h. On the drying-up banks of the lagoon:
Crested Lark, Goldfinch, Yellow Wagtail, Mallard, and Yellow-legged Gull.
Feeding in the lagoon: Coot (pr + b/1), Grey Heron and Mallards. Over the
lagoon: Pallid Swift (1), Common Swift, Barn Swallow, House Martin and Sand
Martin. In the surrounding scrub: Blackcap, Serin, Cetti’s Warbler, Melodious
Warbler, Goldfinch, Reed Warbler, Nightingale, Magpie, Tree Sparrow and House
Sparrow. Slender-billed Gull (1) and a single Yellow-legged Gull circling
overhead at 1338h.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT
DE LES GANTES 1440-1505h
Black-winged
Stilt (26). Black-headed Gull (21). Yellow-legged Gull (24). Mute Swan (2).
Mallard. Moorhen. Coot. White Stork. Cetti’s Warbler. Sand Martin observed
taking a pierid butterfly on the wing. Marsh Harrier (m). Great Reed Warbler.
Barn Swallow. Fan-tailed Warbler. A third Mute Swan appeared, then a forth (2
prs). Another seven Yellow-legged Gulls arrived. Fallow Deer present.
ESTANY DEL CORTALET: AGUAIT
QUIM FRANCH 1520-1543h
Little
Grebe (pr). Marsh Harrier (m). Bee-eaters. Greenfinch. Two Sand Lizards ran
over the path outside the hide. Little Egrets passing by. Grey Heron. Feral
Pigeons overhead. Swallowtail. Clouded Yellow. Speckled Wood. Bee-eater (10)
hanging around outside the nesting colony.
CAN COMES TRAIL & WALK
BACK ALONG THE BEACH TO CAMPSITE 1555-1815h
Linnet
(juv) on the track. Several Bee-eaters along the trail. Short-toed Larks and
Skylarks singing. Crested Larks common. The track down to and along the beach
(Platja de Can Comes) is closed for several months each year during the year to
protect the breeding terns and Kentish Plovers. This was the first day that
access was possible. Seven juvenile Kentish Plovers seen. Sandwich Tern (5)
heading north along the shore. Two Bee-eaters heading south over the dunes.
CAMPING NAUTIC ALMATA
1830-2055h
At least
six Bee-eaters hawking over the boundary between the camp and the reserve for
around 30 minutes. Hoopoe feeding in the short turf of the pitch right next to
the tent on sparsely vegetated sandy soil. Nightingale song began to intensify
after 2000h. Cuckoo singing. Fan-tailed Warbler and Yellow Wagtail overhead.
Movement of Purple Herons, Cattle Egrets and Little Egrets (one flock contained
17 birds) increasing in the evening – birds flying in from all area to roost in
the reserve.
ESTANYS DEL MATÀ 2100-2235h
Returned
for one final look at this superb area. Made some sound recordings on minidisc
of the frogs, cicadas, crickets, Nightingales and other wetland birds. Sun
dropped behind the Pyrenees at 2110h. Large movement of Night Herons obvious with at least 12 birds
flying down into the old rice fields. Two Slender-billed Gulls still present,
feeding in areas of open water with 11 Black-headed Gulls. Largest flock of
Whiskered Terns seen here in the past two weeks – tonight 22 birds hawking over
124 Black-winged Stilts and three Avocets. More Coots obvious at this time of
day with several broods out feeding. A pair of Purple Swamp-hens out feeding in
an area of mud/sparse vegetation just 30 metres away. Towering over the Coors
were White Stork (2), Little Egret (2), Purple Heron (1) and a Grey Heron.
Nightingale, Cetti’s Warbler, Reed Warbler, Savi’s Warbler, Fan-tailed Warbler
and Great Reed Warbler all singing. Masses of small bats appearing after 2205h.
At least 100 feeding along a 100 metre stretch of wetland. An almost deafening
volume of natural sound coming from around the rice fields: frogs, toads, and
insects joining in with the warblers and Black-winged Stilts as night fell on
the last full day of the trip.
Saturday
17 June 2000
Parc
Natural dels Aiguamolls de
L'Empordá > Castelló d'Empúres > Figueres > Barcelona > London.
Blue sky, max 29°C.
CAMPING NAUTIC ALMATA
Woke up at
0730h. Marsh Harrier (m) over the campsite, c50 metres away. Cuckoo, Hoopoe,
Stonechat and Fan-tailed Warbler heard as we packed up. Left at 0955h for Barcelona airport. Black-winged Stilts in the
small lagoon at the campsite entrance. Crested Larks on the road between the
gates and the C-260. Cattle Egrets in the fields along this road to Castelló.
BARCELONA EL PRAT
AIRPORT
Flock of 17
Swifts hawking around the terminal building. Alpine Swift (2) sped by. All planes
into the UK
were delayed for hours! House
Sparrow, Starling and White Wagtail also noted. Serins singing from the
introduced palm trees on the concourse outside terminal A. Last bird of the
trip was a Magpie as the plane finally departed, hours late, just before dusk.
